The 25 Most Exciting Moments of Fashion Month
The fashion season has come and gone, and, like always, there's been a whirlwind of bold personalities, new collections, and emerging designers. From September to mid-October the fashion world seems to almost cross over into the wider public consciousness.
There's a been a heavy amount of reshuffling, from Balenciaga to Ralph Lauren; some of the world's most recognizable brands are becoming completely different (or falling into bankruptcy). Nicki Minaj effectively ran fashion week via Instagram, and Riccardo Tisci's Givenchy brought his Parisian luxury to the streets of NYC while paying his respects to the pain of 9/11 at the same time. It's one of fashion's busiest times of the year, and this past month was no exception; these are The 25 Most Exciting Moments of Fashion Month.
Rick Owens' Model BackpacksWhen is Rick Owens not putting on a runway show? At his Spring/Summer 2016 womenswear runway show, models trotted out wearing…well, other models. While we were hoping the look referencing WWE's Undertaker, it's just the latest chapter in Owens' conceptual runway shows (whether intentional or unintentional).
For the record, the move was inspired by an Annie Leibovitz photo of artist Leigh Bowery in the exact same pose with his wife. In a press release revealed in Dazed and Confused Tumblr Q&A post-show, Owens expanded on the concept, noting the straps are simultaenously about restraint and cradling; a dissection of women raising and supporting other women. While the idea has a much grander message, it's almost ironic that an incident at TomorrowWorld music festival premiered just a day before his runway show.
Uniqlo x LemaireUniqlo is something of a rarity in America right now. For those who aren't within striking distance of retailer, its brand of quality basics trumps fast-fashion mall brands on quality while matching their price points. The brand also has a string of designer collaborators, the latest being with French brand Lemaire.
Lemaire, named after co-designer Christophe Lemaire, is notorious for classic luxury in a modern “European” style—the only downfall being its high price points. By collaborating with Uniqlo, the collection imported Lemaire's inherent luxury at Uniqlo's price point. But before you think that the quality suffered as a result, think again. The collaboration is filled with genuine cashmere sweaters and coats—not to mention lined parkas and cozy sweats. The collection was such a success that Uniqlo even decided to bring it back again for the holiday and spring seasons. With the foresight to tap brands like Lemaire for collaborations, Uniqlo constantly proves that it's the best at what it does.
Yeezy Season 2Kanye West's highly-anticipated second collection debuted during New York Fashion Week with a twist—this time, the clothing was produced independently of adidas. While the duo will continue their footwear partnership, the military-themed collection is another step towards West becoming a designer in his own right.
Ralph Lauren steps downIt's the end of an era.
Not just then end of Ralph Lauren's time as CEO of his company, but also the end of the American designer-celebrity era that started with names like Lauren, Calvin Klein, and Donna Karen. Yes his replacement, Stefan Larsson, doesn't come from within Lauren family of brands (much less the Lauren family), but he does have a strong resume that seems fit to tackle Ralph Lauren's current issues.
After expanding H&M globally and revitalizing Old Navy, Larsson looks poised to stabilize the business side of the brand, kickstarting Ralph Lauren's growth in a time of brand stagnation. As the fashion industry gets more crowded by the minute, Larsson's new role should help grow the brand from within, making it stronger on the outside. Oh, and don't worry, Ralph isn't going anywhere, promising employees (and fans) that he's “not stepping down, he's stepping up.”
Kanye West's SHOWstudio interviewIt's probably the best Kanye West interview to come out of 2015. SHOWStudio, brainchild of famed English photographer Nick Knight, invited Kanye West to speak on a variety of topics earlier this month. What resulted was more of venting session than a true interview, with West speaking his piece more than answering the questions asked. That doesn't mean that West didn't drop nuggets of knowledge however; the nearly two hour video interview included points on Yeezy Season 2 and his continued efforts to break into high fashion, along with thoughts about his family, race, and music (though if you were hoping to get an answer as to what is going on with Swish, then you'll be disappointed). It's hard to even begin to explain the manic genius that is Kanye West, so we recommend that you listen to it yourself, as soon as possible.
Stussy and Très Bien Collaboration CollectionIt sometimes feels like Stussy plays second fiddle to Supreme…that is until you realize that Stussy has some of the best collaborations in the game, as of late. Coordinating with conceptual retailer and international Comme de Garçons haven Dover Street Market earlier in 2015, Stussy's choice to work on a collection with Sweden's Très Bien seems like a continuation of the brand's key collaboration collections.
The collaboration is unique in that it really does feel like a “team effort;” Stussy's skate and streetwear history melded with Très Bien's luxury taste (notice how the branding basically blends into the clothes?). Stussy has spent much of 2015 reminding everyone that they still have product that's worth getting hyped for; The story of Stussy is still evolving, and this period is just its latest chapter.
Balenciaga's new creative directorWhen Alexander Wang and Balenciaga told the world they were (amicably) breaking-up, the fashion world was buzzing. While the American designer failed to really kick off at the Parisian house, the announcement that his replacement would be Vetements creative director Demna Gvasalia was an incredible plot twist. While several designers—from Sacai's Chitose Abe, to students of Nicolas Ghesquière (the former creative director of Balenciaga)—were considered, Gvasalia's appointment shows Balenciaga's commitment to experimentation. While Gvasalia's resume sees him holding places on the design teams of Louis Vuitton and (more importantly) Maison Margiela, Vetements is still a very young brand in the wider picture, leaving many to wonder what exactly he'll bring to Balenciaga. Only time will tell if this is a match that will bring Balenciaga back on top of the Paris fashion scene.
Trés Bien's site redesignTrés Bien, the ultimate cool guy e-commerce store, followed up an impressive debut of their in-house collections with a robust Fall offering, including toggle coats, fleece jackets, and more canvas Common Projects collabs. The site also got a facelift, allowing for richer product imagery while maintaining the minimal black and white color scheme of the original site.
Virgil Abloh steps out of Kanye West's shadowVirgil Abloh's flourishing fashion career shows no signs of slowing down. The Off-White designer even made a convert out of notoriously hard-to-please Cathy Horyn, a legendary fashion critic who has panned every single one of Kanye West's collections. His latest offering proves that while he's taking the long road to the top of the fashion game, Abloh is fully invested in the journey ahead.
Apple drops its Hermès watch collaborationThe Apple Watch had an uphill battle from the jump. Sure, Apple has made its name off of introducing new products that can assimiliate into the daily lives of the human race, but the Apple Watch (and its three-tiers of pricing and materials) wasn't seeing global adoption. But while it has sustained a cult fanbase of early adopters, the announcement that Hermès helped push the Apple Watch firmly into the luxury accessories space. For those unfamiliar with Hermès, the history French label has made a killing over literally timeless (pun not intended) leather goods, including watches. While its retail process is prohibitive to the common consumer for a number of reasons, the Hermès edition of the Apple Watch will allow fans of both brands to take an affordable (in context) version of their products, simultaneously introducing the Apple Watch to a completely new consumer. The smartwatch may have hit early snags, but this is a reminder that you can't count Apple's newest gadget out.
RIck Owens' DGAF Tumblr Q&AWe've already mentioned Rick Owens latest runway “performance,” but he followed it up with an even more bizarre live Q&A, via Dazed and Confused's Tumblr page. Naturally, several of the questions focused on how to make it in the fashion industry; other questions focused on Owens latest runway spectacle and his design philosophies. While things definitely turned a little toward the weird end of the spectrum (something to look forward to whenever it comes to Owens' work), he also responded to questions on fashion's intersection with technology, and the body image issues that plague the industry. Needless to say, Owens is always going to bring an audience and tone that's a little off-kilter, and we imagine he wouldn't have it any other way.
Rihanna Vanity Fair Cover ShootIs it hot in here? Or is it just Rihanna totally naked in Vanity Fair? The red-haired, red-hot superstar graced the magazine's pages for a scintillating editorial that had the Internet's collective jaw dropping to the floor. Oh, to be a fly on the wall of that hotel room.
American Apparel goes bankruptAmerican Apparel has been in a very publich downward spiral for a long while now. With the recent announcement that the brand would be going bankrupt, it's truly bittersweet. From expelling (unofficial) face and founder Dov Charney, to the shady boardroom politics that lead to rounds of internal shake-ups, American Apparel's downfall has been dramatic. The L.A. basics brand—while once iconic at the early-'00s—hasn't turned a profit since 2009, and while the bankruptcy filing does wipe out Charney's shares (aka ownership) for good, American Apparel will still be able to keep their L.A. factories open; along with all of their U.S.-based stores. The move also helps cut nearly $200 million of the company's debt vis-a-vis a new financing plan. The racy American Apparel of yesterday may be gone for good, but that doesn't mean there's not a bright future for the company that introduced V-neck t-shirts and glittery leggings to the masses.
Nicki Minaj owns Milan Fashion Week on InstagramNicki Minaj's social media presence got a huge boost at Milan Fashion Week, where the buxom artist's outfit photo garnered the most likes during the runway show-filled week. Take that, million dollar-making fashion bloggers!
Diversity at NYFW is on the rise.The good news? Diversity at New York Fashion Week is improving. Yassss! However, models on the runway were still majority white. So we got a lot more work to do in terms of making fashion a more inclusive medium.
Travi$ Scott “Antidote” Video PremieresThe best thing about rappers getting deeper into the “fashion sides” is that you can expect them to pop up with some seriously incredible gear. Travi$ Scott (undoubtedly thanks in part to the influence of Kanye West) came out full-force in the video for his single “Antidote”, wearing some incredibly rare Raf Simons. Some may remeber the camo bomber jacket—sourced Raf Simons' Fall/Winter 2001 collection—that Kanye wore at the end of last year. That same bomber appears in the video, along with an insanely rare Raf Simons parka from Simons' Fall/Winter 2003, with illustrations from artist Peter Saville; the jacket recently hit Grailed at the very affordable price of $10,000. But Scott didn't just wear rare Raf; he also made sure to include pieces from adidas, Diesel, and Helmut Lang. Considering the amount of grail pieces in this video, it's safe to call it one of the best videos (in terms of fashion) that dropped in 2015.
Totokaelo expands to New YorkSeattle multi-brand boutique Totokaelo expanded east and opened a sprawling five-story flagship store in New York City. Located inside an old artist's house in SoHo, the well-lit shop is also the ideal platform for creative director Jill Wenger to officially launch Totokaelo's burgeoning in-house line. Or you know, for wealthy shoppers to cop gear from labels like Vetements, Acne Studios, Rick Owens, and Maison Margiela.
Rick Owens opens a very Rick flagship in Los Angeles.Rick Owens may live and operate his brand in Paris, but he returned to his L.A. roots with his latest store opening. With a brand new flagship location located at 819 N. La Brea Ave., the 5,200-square-foot reworked former-ribbon factory was completed with help from architect Ann Tumaiani. Internal design features include a water tank for slow-motion bubbles, and a wall that emits fog on a five minute cycle. Telling the Los Angeles Times that he wanted to create a store that would pay homage to biblical films and early-Hollywood filmmaker Cecil B. DeMille. From the concrete floors to the massive beams that support the ceiling, this new store is sure to be every bit as grand (and reserved) as Owens catwalk collections.
Christopher Bastin steps down at GantIs this the end of the #menswear era? Christopher Bastin, the designer who championed a rebel-prep aesthetic and got Kid Cudi to Rock GANT Rugger's two-toned Home Run varsity jackets for a time, stepped down from the European-owned American heritage label. Bastin got attention for his Rugger collection before being promoted to creative director at GANT proper a few years ago.
Givenchy hosts fashion show in NYCGivenchy went big…really big for its Spring/Summer 2016 runway collection. Initially, designer Riccardo Tisci shocked spectators by pointing out that he would be showing in NYC. After the initial announcment, details trickled out about the sheer magnitude of the show; at first a partnership with performance artist Marina Abramovic, then a release of tickets to allow the public into the show, culminating in a 80-model-strong runway spectacle that quickly revealed itself as a metaphor for post-9/11 NYC. Needless to say, the show was a fitting flourish for the brand that's helped push Kim Kardashian from reality start into fashion icon, and aside from a few model falls on the runway, involving the city in a way that harkens back to Tisci's original intent.
Supreme and Comme de Garçons SHIRT collaboration collectionSupreme isn't unfamiliar with the idea working with a high-fashion collaborator, and it's hardly the first time that James Jebbia and company ahve teamed with a wing of Rei Kawakubo's Comme des Garçons empire. The collection was small—amounting to little more than co-branded hoodies, jakcets, and T-shirts (with plenty of red tartan plaid)—but well hyped. Considering that Supreme has had a blockbuster season, starting with its Fall/Winter 2015 offerings and branching out into collaborations like its hushed Jordan Brand project, its easy to call this “business as usual” for the world's one-and-only box logo. Sure the kids may not know what exactly “CDG” is, but at least they'll have fire gear…and isn't that the whole point after all?
Givenchy's lit Milan Fashion Week partyNews flash: Riccardo Tisci really knows how to party. For Milan Fashion Week, he threw an event that was the real life version of an SNL Stephon sketch. His party had everything: super hot models, a basketball court with sweaty dudes fighting over the rock, Rottweilers on leashes held by suited masked men, stripper poles, and a set by Nicki Minaj. Serious #FOMO for real though.
Young Thug Says 90% of his clothes are women's.Young Thug is confident enough in his style to know how he wants things to fit, and he thinks your heteronormative approach to dressing up is wack af. In a recent interview, Thugger admitted that his wardrobe is almost exclusively women's clothing, because women's clothing simply fits him better than the baggy stuff for men. If it worked for '80s rockstars who were drowning in poon, there's no reason it wouldn't work for Young Thug, either.
DuragHistoryWeekLast September, #BlackTwitter lit up with a random and hilarious hashtag: #DuRagHistoryWeek. The same time this year,#DuRagHistoryWeek returned, and it was just as funny as last year's celebration. At this pace, maybe next year #DuRagHistoryWeek will be a full-fledged thing, and we'll get an ill DuRag History Week parade. How wavy would that be?
Dudes love to wear pink more than ever.Pink seems to have shed its effeminate associations and become the new color of swaggy dudes everywhere—word to Cam'ron. The lighter shade of red is popping off everywhere from Drake's “Hotline Bling” merchandise to Supreme hoodies to overcoats in Virgil Abloh's latest Off-White collection. Oh right, and the rose gold iPhone 6S and Apple Watch, which has so many men coveting it the color's been dubbed “bro's gold.”
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