There was a new dawn in fashion today in Paris; a new era of proportion, led by the house of Celine, whose latest collection was the freshest take on modern dressing seen so far this season - a poetically evocative affair. In fact, Celine's creative director, Phoebe Philo, has become the most important women's designer capable of creating both sought after runway clothes and accessories while also seriously addressing women's practical needs.
As is her wont, Philo gave each guest her mood board, a carefully selected catalog of interior photographs mostly culled from Casa Vogue and the World of Interior telegraphing her cocooning frame of mind. A melange of hippie Victoriana and decayed modernism, they elegantly illustrated the mysterious connections in Philo's imagination.
The show, on Sunday, Sept. 30, was also all about the new sense of proportion seen across Paris runways - displaced oversized pockets or chess piece shaped tuxedo dresses and coats. Celine's new voluminous one button blazer had an intriguing '70s air and certainly lots of room to hide a baby bump or some extra pounds. And, to inject fashion buzz, there were lots of couture knots, most memorably in twisted knot blouses.
And by knots we mean football sized versions in silk or leather, used in cool, intriguing blouses.
"It's a about femininity, being gentle and support. Yes, support is really key, as I was having a baby when making this collection, and support means a lot then," Philo said backstage. One thing is for sure, this is the first runway in which a Baby Bjorn to hold an infant has served as inspiration for one of the world's most anticipated runway shows.
Apart from making trendsetting clothes, Philo is also delivering in the accessories department. In a season when shoes seam to be the new handbags, she put Birkenstock-like shearling sandals in black and purple mink pumps on her catwalk, which are sure to be a bestsellers. Coming from a designer who has taken her bow in New Balance sneakers before, this is a statement from a woman who knows how to give comfort to her customer. But not only women would like to have these well-tailored luxury clothes. There have been rumors that a men's line is in the planning as soon as Philo can devote more time to the project after just having had her third child.
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- Phoebe Philo