The Cotton Campaign, which is a coalition of labour rights NGOs, independent trade unions, brand and retail associations, has called for Uzbekistan's government and cotton sector to publicly affirm its commitment to allowing independent monitoring and reporting on labour rights in the cotton sector after the incident.

It claimed the attack on founder and director of Uzbek Forum for Human Rights Umida Niyazova and a journalist occurred at the same time as escalating intimidation and pressure was being placed on independent labour monitors, which stand to negatively impact the government and industry’s efforts to attract sourcing by global brands.

The Cotton Campaign said the duo cut their trip short after being intimidated, insulted and accused of organising information attacks against Uzbekistan.

The Uzbekistan Textile Association (Uztextileprom) told Just Style: "Over recent years, Uzbekistan has made significant strides in combating forced labour and addressing human rights abuses within the cotton industry. As an association of textile manufacturers, our members are dedicated to continuously improving conditions and are committed to fostering a fair, open, and transparent market.

"As we open our doors to international scrutiny, we assert that there is absolutely no place for violence or intimidation. Whilst we cannot comment on specific instances, we strongly urge local authorities to investigate any allegations of illegality and intimidation thoroughly."

However, legal director at Global Labor Justice, which hosts the Cotton Campaign, Allison Gill said: "This outrageous attempt to intimidate Niyazova and Madrakhimova rings the alarm about Uzbekistan’s willingness to comply with international rules governing supply chains."

She added: "If Uzbekistan wants to demonstrate its readiness to participate in global supply chains that pay increasing attention to labor rights, it is essential that labour rights monitors and workers can monitor and report on conditions without fear of intimidation, harassment, or surveillance."

The Cotton Campaign alleged the attack on 18 April took place against a backdrop of so-called "escalating harassment of human rights activists in Uzbekistan" with the organisation claiming it "creates a chilling effect on labour rights monitoring, which may undermine global buyers’ confidence in sourcing from Uzbekistan".

Since the lifting of the Uzbek Cotton Pledge to not use Uzbek cotton, the Cotton Campaign explained it has engaged the government and industry as well as global brands to encourage responsible sourcing from Uzbekistan.

It stated: "This approach can enable access to global markets, and in turn provide opportunities for sustainable economic growth and decent work in the Uzbek cotton and textiles industry.

"But to make this a reality, Uzbekistan should demonstrate commitment to international standards for human and labour rights in supply chains. Unrestricted independent monitoring and reporting on labour rights is a fundamental element of a sustainable and attractive cotton industry."

American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) senior vice president of policy Nate Herman said: "Freedoms of speech, movement, and association are fundamental to a sustainable cotton and textile industry, and we urge the Uzbek government to ensure that independent monitors are allowed to investigate and report on labour rights without fear of reprisal."

The Cotton Campaign claims two other incidents of harassment took place the week before and in January an official from the Ministry of Internal Affairs allegedly threatened an Uzbek Forum monitor with criminal charges and said the monitor’s life was in danger for engaging with farmworkers at cotton company Indorama Agro and reporting on labour rights violations there.

Cotton Campaign co-founder and former US deputy assistant secretary of state for democracy, human rights and labor Bennett Freeman added: "Having eliminated systemic state-imposed forced labour in the harvest, Uzbekistan now has the opportunity to attract responsible sourcing by global brands, which would help expand and reward good practices at those cotton companies that are already innovating and investing in upskilling and state-of-the-art technology.

"But to realise this opportunity, Uzbekistan must allow human rights defenders to carry out their vital work without restrictions."

In March 2024, the International Textile Manufacturers Federation and International Apparel Federation announced a joint convention would take place from 8-10 September in Samarkand, Uzbekistan to expand the view of the country’s booming textile and garment industry.

In February, the Uztextileprom Association told Just Style it welcomed a probe into its reforms following a report alleging the resurgence of forced labour during the country's 2023 cotton harvest.

"Uzbek cotton sector urged to protect activists after alleged attack" was originally created and published by Just Style, a GlobalData owned brand.

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