Gritty streets of Mong Kok a potential Hong Kong flashpoint
By Greg Torode and Anne Marie Roantree HONG KONG (Reuters) - The dark alleyways and triad-run bars of Mong Kok are a long way from the glittering towers of Hong Kong island, the hub of pro-democracy protests that have brought tens of thousands of people on to the streets over the last five days and nights. And it is here, in Kowloon district across the harbour from the famous skyline, that police have been most conspicuous in their absence as tensions have ebbed and flowed. The city's highly trained police force has backed down since it attempted to quash demonstrations with pepper spray and tear gas on Sunday, easing tensions. China's international standing, and Hong Kong's future as a financial hub, could hinge on how the police handle the coming days, and it is the tough streets of Mong Kok that could prove to be the flashpoint for renewed clashes. Thousands of people have blocked one of Kowloon's busiest intersections - the corner of Nathan Road and Argyle Street - for the last three nights. They have crowded around abandoned double-decker buses, festooning them with banners, messages and ribbons demanding full democracy and the resignation of Hong Kong's leader Leung Chun-ying. Unlike relatively calm nightly gatherings on Hong Kong island, protests have proved more fraught at times in Mong Kok, possibly reflecting its working-class roots and links to pro-Beijing activist groups. Scuffles and shouting matches have broken out among the crowds, and one man was arrested after he sped his Mercedes towards protesters at 2 a.m. on Tuesday. They had to fling themselves to the ground to avoid injury. "Get a better job" said one Mong Kok sign directed at the riot police. UNEASY PEACE In an uneasy peace, students have passed fliers amongst the crowds, warning protesters to be wary of provocateurs who might want to incite the police to use force. And some, including demonstrators and both serving and former police officers, fear local triad gangsters could be the ones to provide the spark. "What worries me about Kowloon West, particularly, is the potential for agitators, triad elements and the rest causing trouble," said political risk consultant Steve Vickers, a former head of the Royal Hong Kong Police criminal intelligence bureau. Despite the tension and intrigue, some people on the street are defiant as they brace for a renewed crackdown. "I'm 64 years old. If something happens, I don't care," said Estella Chow, a part-time security guard, fanning herself in the heat as she spoke to students. "I'll say to the police: 'Come'." The lack of visible policing around Nathan Road is perhaps surprising for a force branded "Asia's finest". Hong Kong's 27,000-strong force includes elite paramilitary elements formed during the British colonial era, including several thousand anti-riot officers of the police tactical unit. The unit was key to the government restoring order during the bloody communist campaign of bombings and demonstrations across Hong Kong in 1967, and later during outbreaks of rioting in camps that once held Vietnamese boat people in the 1980s and 1990s. On the streets, some believe the protesters will be given leeway until the weekend, even though the government has deemed the demonstrations illegal. But others fear that renewed police action is brewing as the government prepares for China's National Day on Wednesday, celebrating the foundation of the modern state under Communist Party rule. Willis Ho, who has been working closely with students, said on her Facebook page, "Today is abnormally quiet. It feels like the calm before the storm." Either way, the government has repeatedly stated that there will be no compromise on the protesters' ultimate demand; the overturning of a recent decision by Beijing to limit democracy in Hong Kong. Beijing has offered Hong Kong people the chance to vote for their own leader in 2017, but only among candidates selected by a screening committee filled with pro-Beijing figures. (Additional reporting by Yimou Lee, Irene Jay Liu and Elzio Barreto; Editing by Mike Collett-White)
