What a difference a season and shift in focus make.
In a substantial change of gears, Donatella Versace gave us a new lingerie-propelled vision of the Milan house while at the same time re-centering the brand on its traditional signature style.
Staged Friday night, Sept. 21, in the Italian fashion capital, the show opened up with an interesting new path for Versace - saucy underwear. Oddly, even though Versace is known for sexy fashion, exploring lingerie is something they have never much done before.
Versace had the models marching out in bras bristling under swung open blazers or in hot pants made of lace. Tops were cut in see-through guipure, silk minis trimmed with the material too. The best cocktail in this spring 2013 collection was a skimpy negligee dress.
The gutsy entrance into this sector coupled with the clothes' sense of racy refinement led to some great looks, and a whole new take on underwear as outer chic.
"It was time to take a few risks, even if always respecting what Versace stands for," a tanned and slim Versace, dressed in a sleek black pantsuit, told FWD post show.
Gone too was the sleek finish one associates with Versace, and in came some rumpled silk sheath dresses that had great punch. And when the designer did send out silk print evening gowns they were in arrestingly muddied and marbleized hues. Anchored by multi-strap posh boots, this was a new departure for Versace, but a direction where the Medusa-head brand immediately looks very much at home.