Few shows have better summed up the new geometry trend dominating the current fashion season than the sensitively architectural Marni spring 2013 collection, presented Sunday, Sept. 23, in Milan.
Then again, the show's location did hint why. Marni stages their runway shows behind Porta Nuova, the giant skyscraper dotted redevelopment of north central Milan.
Just the banking and regional businesses are radically re-writing the Italian fashion capital's skyline practically every month, so Marni's thoroughly elegant collection suggested a new fashionable vernacular of sharp edged sculpted chic.
Semi circles and sliced dots dominated the checks that were the key fabric in this show; boxy handbags had geometric weaves - their very repetition adding to the modernist elan. Consuelo Castiglioni, creative director of Marni, ignited and led a huge movement in fashion of large vinyl and applique accessories. This season, her looked was stripped back - the few brooches and earrings made in carved wood.
The new high-tech influence even extended to the Geisha geta footwear; finished with metallic trim they will surely ignite a major trend.
"Clean, fresh but with controlled volume. Inspired by Carlo Mollino and Anni Albers ideas in Bauhaus," explained the designer, referring to fantastical Italian architect and the legendary German textile designer and printmaker.
Castiglioni also took a lot of risks with her silhouette - adding multiple peplums to flared skirts and dresses in a deft display of cutting. Yet, though buildings are required to be solid, these Marni clothes were almost weightless, many of the ribboned nylon coats and bonded leather tunics floating slightly off the body. Thus, even if they were voluminous, they looked light and airy.