Proenza Schouler loosen up at NY Fashion Week

Associated Press
The Proenza Schouler Spring 2014 collection is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Wednesday, Sept. 11, 2013. (AP Photo/Seth Wenig)
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NEW YORK (AP) — To say the designers at Proenza Schouler loosened up their look for next spring, you have to know the starting point: The collection typically is inventive, cool and fairly aggressive.

Their clothes are for the model types — the young women who jet-set the globe in search of the next great party, the one that starts after midnight.

So to see the words "understated domesticity" and "serene and polished" in the notes Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough used for their New York Fashion Week runway show on Wednesday was more than a little surprising.

But, as promised, there was movement and ease, mixed with their other hallmark, experimental fabrics.

"Texture plays a prominent role," they wrote. "Suede, wood and chrome reference mid-century furniture designers of the West Coast while woven silk coats recall traditional Moroccan weavings."

Translation: Accordian-pleat, below-the-knee skirts in a myriad of metallics, tiered tops and jackets paired with cropped, loose-leg pants, and a series of cotton crepe outfits printed with the shadings and shadows of well-loved garments.

Don't worry, they took care of their model friends, too. They can wear the stunning top cast in copper, a breast plate held in place with some wide ribbon, that closed the show. Not many others can.

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