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    Rural Kansas a tourist lure for offbeat travelers

    KANSAS CITY, Kansas (Reuters) - While some avid travelers seek exotic ports or ancient cities, Larry Hornbaker's ambition is to drive 25 miles of dirt roads in every county in the U.S. state of Kansas.

    He has company on the back roads. Some 1,500 members of the Kansas Explorers Club long to see every corner of the state and patronize struggling small towns, many of which are fighting a losing battle against population decline.

    "Our mission is to sustain and preserve rural culture," club founder Marci Penner said. "Our explorers know the difference they can make."

    Bill Bunyan ate a hamburger in all 105 Kansas counties. Then he ate a steak in every county and now he and his wife, Susan Bunyan, have set out to have ice cream sodas at all 39 old-fashioned soda fountains in the state. They visited their 12th soda fountain in Greensburg on Tuesday.

    Larry Woydziak bowled in every county that had an alley -- 85 counties altogether. Bonnie Danley photographed a church in every county. John and Charlene Van Walleghen are walking a mile in every county and sending themselves a post card from each one.

    Others have built county-by-county quests around eating pie, landing an airplane, seeing a historic bridge or visiting every courthouse.

    Perhaps the most-traveled members of the club are Charles and Ina Kay Zimmerman, who have visited all 627 incorporated cities in Kansas and 923 former towns -- or what's left of them. That took 13 years.

    Kansas is about 400 miles east to west and 210 miles north to south.

    "We love to see the people, the little grocery stores and cafes," Ina Kay Zimmerman said. "People in these towns are trying to survive and to lead a rich life. They have such courage."

    DRAWN TO BACK ROADS

    Penner said many people on quests live in urban areas, such as Kansas City and Wichita, and pine for the road less traveled. Their trips satisfy a wanderlust while doing some good for rural Kansas, she said.

    In 2010, the smallest 25 towns had 593 people, a drop of 30 percent from the combined population of 849 in 2000, according to U.S. Census data.

    Kansas had 22 towns with fewer than 50 people in 2000, but 41 such towns in 2010.

    Few small towns have conventional tourist attractions. The Explorers Club finds something to like.

    Hornbaker is hitting dirt roads partly because he is intrigued by old farmsteads, some with weathered, collapsed barns and houses. "You wonder who had been there, why they left and where they went," Hornbaker said

    Hornbaker has covered nearly 35,000 miles and is 80 percent through his quest.

    Bunyan is partial to "mom and pop" restaurants and sought them out in his quest for hamburgers and steaks. He finished the burger hunt in 2003, gaining publicity that inspired others from the club in the ensuing years, Penner said.

    "It's just a fun thing to do and it forces you to go to every county," Bunyan said.

    The Explorers Club has grown steadily since its founding in 1994, Penner said. For an annual fee of $18.61 -- Kansas was admitted as a state in 1861 -- members receive six newsletters that allow them to stay informed about quests and hear about ways they can help small towns, she said.

    The Zimmermans' trips, sometimes on a motorcycle, took them past remote cemeteries, deserted school houses and prairie vistas. It provided close-up looks at wildlife, including a buffalo herd they didn't expect to see in south-central Kansas.

    "You stumble on things you would not have known existed," Ina Kay Zimmerman said.

    Narrow roads of sand or with grass growing in the middle once led to towns now long gone, she said. Sadly, she said, the towns may have lost a major employer or had a new rail line or highway pass them by.

    The Van Walleghens are about two-thirds through their goal of sending a postcard from every county and have walked a mile in about a third of the counties.

    "We are in no rush," John Van Walleghen said.

    (Editing by David Bailey and Daniel Trotta)

     

    22 comments

    • GREG  •  Pooler, Georgia  •  18 days ago
      I have lived as far west as Rancho Palos Verdes, California, as far east as Savannah, Georgia, as far south as Ocean Springs, Mississippi and I have lived in Kansas from as small a town as Edna to as large as Wichita. This is a beautiful nation from coast to coast and uncounted places in between. Rural Kansas has night skies so full of stars it can only be rivaled by the high desert of the southwest. There is a mountain all alone that you can sneak to the top of and see the curve of the earth surrounding an ocean of small towns and farms lit up like a reflection of the galaxies of the night sky. To not find beauty in Kansas says more about you than it does Kansas. Get off the interstate and slow down enough to live a little.
    • dixie  •  Fort Worth, Texas  •  18 days ago
      Good for these folks! Sure beats sitting at home or in a bar watching all the talking heads on TV!
    • reality check  •  18 days ago
      This is fabulous. My husband and I used to do this on our own years ago in CA. Miss those road trips. But to do this with a group of people...wow...that would be fun! Safe travels!!
    • William  •  West Sacramento, California  •  18 days ago
      My goal is to clean every room of my house! Someday!....I know it can be done, other bachelors have....I have read.
    • SCB  •  18 days ago
      I have been all over every state west of the Mississippi and a good many east of it. There's good and bad to be said about each, from Seattle down to San Diego and from New Orleans up to Fargo. The one thing I remember most about Kansas is that the people seemed to be somewhat guarded and mistrustful of outsiders. If this were common in all rural areas, then why didn't I notice it in Oklahoma or Nebraska? They seemed to ask very leading questions trying to ascertain your political and/or religious views. I suppose to find out if you were quote-unquote "one of their kind." Still, I'd go back if circumstances took me there. The one place I hope to never EVER step foot in again as long as I live is Texas. Amazing that its residents can be so arrogant about a state with low education, little culture, pathetic natural beauty compared to ALL 49 other states, and an incomparable ignorance of the world. Secede already.
    • Victoria Two  •  26 days ago
      I thought I was adventurous doing the Blue Highways thing in the Midwest, now I do not think so. Their adventure sounds like great fun.
    • hushergal  •  Richardson, Texas  •  18 days ago
      Well it all depends what a person likes to do and they enjoy it so good for them.I enjoy treaveling the back roads to , I do not get to do as much of it as I would like to but go when I can. For those of you making fun of Kansas or not liking it I grew up in a small town in Nebraska .We moved ot Texas with in 20 minutes of Dallas. I moved to Wahington, Florida, Kentucky., California,spent a lot of time in Oklahoma , Mississippi too much time in LasVegas and I never went to my hometown for 30 years and I realized how much I laid how laid back it is compared to where I live and how I really enjoyed it there .If not for me being in a wheelchair and it being very icy there in the winter and my 3 childre nand 7 grand children l iving here I think I would like going back there to my roots.
    • B B  •  26 days ago
      There is so much to see in Kansas. The history lessons are a wonderful look back at our past, and the modern amenities are on par with our present and future. Check out one of the worlds last wetlands at Cheyenne Bottoms between Hoisington and Great Bend. Hundreds of thousands of birds stop at the wetlands on their migrations. These birds are among the other nearly countless wildlife present there. Post rock buildings, rock bridges, beautiful countryside, abundant wildlife, and fresh air!
    • samuel  •  Lafayette, Louisiana  •  18 days ago
      Too bad we had to really dig for this story. This is a wonderful story and a great idea. Almost two years back my wife and I rode our "scooters" through Kansas. It is lovely country... I've always liked being able to see horizon to horizon. I've read that some Kansas counties have programs of "free" land (with restrictions) to encourage resettlement: have to live on it and have to farm it. Too bad the winters are like they are. I'm just no longer that hardy.
      Riding a motorcycle is a great way to see the country. It makes you feel the scenery instead of just passing through it encapsulated in your own climate and sound controlled world.
    • PitaJean  •  18 days ago
      nice story.
    • 0kie Rigerunner  •  Doylestown, Pennsylvania  •  18 days ago
      Most people want to go see what is in other states and care less about what is in their own states.They can say i have been here and there but out side of there own county they have paid little attention unless it was something bad. They think the grass is greener on the other side. I like what these people are doing.
      But i would prefer to do it in okla since that is my home state.
    • Rusty  •  Grand Rapids, Michigan  •  18 days ago
      I grew up in Argonia, Kansas. Home of the First Woman Mayor in America. We (the kids I ran around with) called it Agonyville because of all the fake self proclaimed christans who did nothing but condem us for being wild & crazy.......... The thing I thought was so funny was when I got older & heard the storys of what they did when they were our age we were'nt any different
    • ScallyWag  •  26 days ago
      ''...Larry Hornbaker's ambition is to drive 25 miles of dirt roads in ....'

      Larry likes the dirt road'....... uh huh. Okay. -lmao!
    • Steve  •  26 days ago
      sure does cost $$$$$$ TO go to every is-was town in every county in Kansas, the Explorer Club members, must be slightly $$$$$$ to do that. wish I could, I WOULD
    • Devin  •  Concord, New Hampshire  •  18 days ago
      White European settlers made a mistake and should not have settled so far south in latitude in Kansas, a place with little resemblance to the lands they came from. Kansas has an awful climate and now grows GMO corn and wheat. No one lives in the rural areas for a reason. They just offer very little for anyone that desires to have a greater choice of amenities, a career, or decent healthcar.
    • J.  •  26 days ago
      I would love to do that some day. I have traveled from coast to coast many times. Went from Montana/Canada Border all the way down to the Texas / Mexico border. All this for work. I have been to every state but Hawaii. But it would be fun some day.
    • Christina  •  18 days ago
      I lived in kansas and moved to colorado.....There is nothing to do in kansas except watch the wheat grow, The cars rust and watch a tornado tear up trailer parks other then that, The pay on jobs suck, the taxes are higher, The "good ole boy" program is alive and well. Laws that remind you that you are back in a time 50 years ago..........
    • hmmm  •  Gardner, Kansas  •  18 days ago
      Farmer welfare! Work six week a year get paid for 52 no matter what! Then rent or sell the land that was stolen from the Indians or inhereted...Must be nice.
    • Old Rusty Tulsa  •  Tulsa, Oklahoma  •  26 days ago
      Yeah, Well I been doing the same thing, since I was old enough to drive, The Best Cheese burgers and fries, are at Slick, Oklahoma, and the Pop is pretty Cold, in Nuyaka Oklahoma, and they liked my Dog.Not to much to see at WildCat junction.Thats out by Paw-Paw bend.
    • Geoff Z  •  26 days ago
      i hear this is where the republican candidates either reside or eventually retire.
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