Journeying into Jordan

Travel Guidebook of the Month

Lonely Planet: Jordan, by Bradley Mayhew

For those looking for a taste of the Middle East, the kingdom of Jordan makes a great starting point.  Bordered by countries that are constantly in the headlines — Iraq, Israel, the Palestinian Territories, Syria, and Saudi Arabia — Jordan's comparative anonymity underscores its safety and stability.  Many travelers visit the country primarily to see the ancient Nabataean city of Petra, but Jordan is also home to Roman cities, crusader castles, sprawling deserts, legendary Arab hospitality, and over 100 sites specifically mentioned in the Bible. 

With the sixth edition of Lonely Planet's Jordan guidebook in stores, I contacted author Bradley Mayhew by email for some insights on traveling to Jordan.

As a traveler, what first attracted you to Jordan, and what has kept you coming back?

Bradley Mayhew: Most travelers to Jordan are drawn by the wonders of Petra, one of the world's great archaeological sites, in a stunning desert location.  It's one of those places that is so huge it keeps drawing you back, time after time. Beyond that, Jordan is just such a lovely destination: Immensely helpful and hospitable people, fantastic mint tea and hummus, and a Biblical legacy that just stops you in your tracks every now and then with a 'So this is the actual site of Christ's baptism?' or 'Sodom and Gomorrah actually existed? Here!'

Given the news headlines these days, safety is usually a concern for people considering travel to the Middle East.  Are there any warnings or cautions to consider when traveling to Jordan?

BM: It's always a good idea to check out the State Department travel warnings, though these tend to be quite conservative. Jordan has suffered a couple of terrorist attacks in the last couple of years, partially a spillover from its neighbor Iraq, but Jordan's security forces are very effective and the country remains one of the safest countries in the region.

What might be a good itinerary for a first-timer with a limited amount of time (say, a week or two) in Jordan?

BM: Budget a day to see the Roman sites and chic cafes in the capital Amman, and make a day-trip out to the impressive Roman city of Jerash (and catch the chariot races in its hippodrome!). Overnight in the Christian town of Madaba, with its wonderful floor mosaics and famous mosaic map.  Drive or take a taxi down to the site where John baptized Christ, and continue on for some pampering at one of the resorts on the Dead Sea.  Make time for two days (preferably three) in Petra, a couple of hours' drive away, and then take a two-day jeep trip into the beautiful desert landscapes at Wadi Rum, overnighting in a desert Bedouin camp. Stop off at the mighty Crusader castle of Kerak. Top off your trip with a day spent relaxing poolside at the seaside resort of Aqaba, which also offers excellent scuba diving.

Any Jordan travel suggestions for those with more time, and a willingness to get off the beaten path?

BM: Jordan's wadis (desert canyons) offer dramatic scenery and some of the best adventure travel options in the Middle East. Hire a guide and descend red-rock canyons lined with palm trees, fresh water pools and dramatic waterfalls. You can even rappel down a waterfall at the Madi Mujib Nature Reserve. Jordan's Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature offers exciting hiking and lodging opportunities in its nature reserves.

For those with a more historical bent, the best bet is to hire a car for a couple of days, grab your guidebook, and explore some of Jordan's lesser known but highly significant archaeological and Biblical sites. Jordan's road network is good and, outside of Amman, driving is the best way to get around this compact country.

Away from the river valley, Jordan is largely desert.  What's the best way to enjoy this more isolated part of the country?

BM: For those keen to follow in the camel prints of Lawrence of Arabia, the best bet is to contact in advance one of Wadi Rum's excellent Bedouin guides, such as Bedouin Roads, and spend a few days with them exploring the magnificent desert — by jeep, camel or foot. There's great rock scrambling, canyons to explore, and awesome desert views of sandstone cliffs and rose-red sand dunes. Camping out in the stillness of the desert, chatting with the local Bedouin under a blanket of stars, will be one of your most memorable experiences.

Bradley Mayhew's Jordan guide ($22.99) is published by Lonely Planet.