Slow travel in SE Asia

Immerse yourself with a longer-term stay, says John Borthwick.

If real travel for you means immersing yourself in a place instead of speed-dating a dozen "must-do" destinations, pat yourself on the back. Slow, or long-stay, travel is increasingly popular in South-East Asia and it's not hard to do.

Bali and Lombok, for starters, are perfect for slow travel. Certainly not the zoo of Kuta, but in places such as Canggu, to Kuta's west, where scores of "villas" are available for extended rental. This is hardly "the real Bali" (where is, these days?) but a villa gives you a base for excursions, and to just read, cook and swim. Beyond Bali's southern coast, consider Candidasa in the east, Lovina in the north or Lombok's Sengiggi.

Successful long-stay travel requires more forethought than a quick trip. Do your research early about the best visa - they vary from country to country and the rules often change. Enquire if your destination's standard tourist visa-on-arrival (or visa-exempt entry), usually of one month, is extendable. If you plan to stay more than a month, get a longer- term visa before leaving home. Or, if appropriate, look into a special visas, such as for language study (Thailand) or meditation (Burma). India probably has the most generous tourist visa in Asia, allowing a six-month stay.

Now, what sort of accommodation do you want - condo, serviced apartment, villa (the term covers a multitude of sins), hotel or home-stay? Let's say you spot on the internet a potential apartment. Firstly, email the renter and ask a few questions.

Are utilities included in the monthly rate? How much is the holding deposit? If these are important to you, ask about security, internet and kitchen? If the answers are unsatisfactory or evasive, move on. Don't send the non-refundable deposit until you're satisfied.

Cambodia, next door to Thailand but much less developed, has fewer condos or villas but its hotel rates can be very economical, especially outside the capital, Phnom Penh. Historic Siem Reap in the north and especially Sihanoukville beach resort on the Gulf are agreeable places for a long stay; or perhaps the rural village of Chambok, 100km south-west of Phnom Penh, for a home stay.

Make sure your accommodation has a safe or a front-desk safety box. It is impractical and risky to always carry around your passport and valuables, as is leaving them unsecured in your room. Instead, carry a photocopy of your passport face page and visa page.

Laos is a fine country for slow travel, especially further up the Mekong in Luang Prabang. Here, too, you are more likely to find hotel accommodation than villas or condos. You'll also find plenty of cosmopolitan dining and company, plus handicraft villages nearby and courses to do. As elsewhere, beware of internet cafes and wi-fi hotspots. Hackers frequently use these locations to hijack travellers' online identities and accounts.

What's next? Beside just hanging out, structured activities might include a course in cooking (popular in Thailand and Laos), massage, language or yoga, or a meditation retreat or martial arts training. Research the cost, duration and dates of courses, preferably before your trip.

You'll need to be financially self-sufficient during your stay as paid employment is generally out of the question.

Some travellers hope to do volunteer work during their time in a country. However, in Thailand for instance, volunteer work by foreigners is still seen as "work" and is not permitted on a tourist visa. And, sadly, even assisting at some orphanages is now off the agenda because of past "suspect" volunteers.

The Philippines has good destinations for long-stay visitors. The town of Sagada is a temperate retreat that's a long, sane way from the din of Manila. The old Spanish town of Vigan in northern Luzon, too, is long-term liveable. Surfers might go to Siargao Island, San Juan (in La Union province) or Baler (Aurora province) during the swell season. Boracay Island is more geared to short-stay visitors.

Malaysia allows a generous 90-day tourist stay and historic Georgetown (Penang), Kuching (Sarawak) and Malacca are culturally rich places to park yourself a while. The east coast of Peninsular Malaysia is quieter and more conservative.

Many visitors want their own transport and typically rent a light motorbike. Make sure there is proper insurance. Unless you hold a current Australian motorcycle licence, Australian travel insurance will not cover injury to you or others in case of accident, nor property damage. Medicare doesn't extend there either.

One other caution: never leave your passport as security, especially on a rental vehicle or jetski. This will leave you vulnerable to "damage" scams.

Slow travel can have its greatest rewards in what happens by chance, so don't over-structure your stay. Just hanging out is a reward in itself. In any case, start planning to cast your fate to the wind, slowly.

Long-stay travel checklist

• Get the right visa to cover the full period of your stay. (Do you need single or multiple entry?)

• Have six-months validity on your passport, counting from the last, not first, day of your trip.

• Buy good travel insurance for your entire journey.

• Take your Australian car and motorcycle licences.

• Be aware of overseas telephone roaming charges. (Buy a local SIM on arrival.)

• Arrange direct debit payment of your bills while away.

• Advise your bank of the country/countries you'll visit.

• Make photocopies of your documents and carry them separately from the originals.

• Be aware of bank fees (often $5 or more) that apply every time you make a cash withdrawal overseas.

Check visa conditions

Popular Thai resort areas such as Phuket, Chiang Mai, Hua Hin, Pattaya-Jomtien and Koh Samui have a good supply of rental apartments. A modern, fully furnished studio costs about $500 a month in high season, plus utilities.

Meanwhile, off-the-beaten-track islands such as Koh Kood and Koh Phayam have budget hotels and bungalow accommodation.

A 60-day Thailand tourist visa, obtained from a consulate before departure, costs $45. A one-year visa is available for retirees over 50 and for full-time Thai language study but conditions apply. Foreigners may not work under any of these visas.

Long-stay visitors in Thailand often enrol in cooking courses, Muay Thai (kick-boxing) training, language classes or meditation retreats. As well, there are endless golfing opportunities.