The £5,000 price tag is eye-watering – yet the world of Japanese whisky is rarely snobbish

Yamazaki whisky
Yamazaki whisky

As the world turns its attention to Tokyo, it seems the right time to enjoy the country’s ancient traditions, impressive culture and – most importantly as far as I’m concerned – its whisky.

Japan is a country that strives for harmony and balance, from Shintoism or Buddhism, to its relationship with nature, art, cuisine and lifestyle. For more, that balance is most emphatically realised in its whisky.

Just as with Japanese fine dining, Japanese luxury whisky styles can be as deft and delicate as a sushi dish, or as bold and beefy as a broth. Scottish brands will focus on specific distillery styles, but Japanese whisky makers are adept at producing a vast range of flavours in one location. When Japanese whisky is at its best, most fans of the spirit would agree it is world-beating.

The craft and quality in Japanese whisky has earned certain distillers global recognition and countless awards, and much of the mystique and mastery has been driven by Suntory, a pioneering brand that embodies the nation’s ethos. Suntory is internationally appreciated, but has been built on domestic affection – if you are collecting or investing and are keen to know what the natives drink, then this distillery remains a creative force to focus on.

The company was founded by innovator Shinjiro Torii nearly 100 years ago – a man who harboured a passion for spirits produced in the west, and subsequently forged the first whiskies in his homeland. Having imported spirits and wine from Europe, the trained chemist developed a peerless palate and earned the title of ‘Nose of Osaka’. He learned quickly to fashion styles that would appeal to Japanese drinkers, and Suntory continues to create whiskies that embody the essential essence of Japan.

The Hibiki 30
The Hibiki 30

Unlike Scotch, the Japanese distilleries do not exchange whiskies to create blends, so Suntory has used its three distilleries – the malts of Yamazaki and Hakushu, along with celebrated grain distillery Chita – to develop an extraordinary range of flavour profiles. Then, applying the philosophy of Tsukuriwake – meaning ‘variety in the making’ – they have become masters of marrying flavours to produce house styles and consistency.

With that in mind, and given the nation’s ambition to find balance in life, it makes sense to start with the blended whisky Hibiki. In my view, one of quintessential whiskies to have in a cabinet is Hibiki Japanese Harmony (£71). There is no age statement on this whisky, but that doesn’t seem to bother the Japanese, since the foundations of Japanese whisky were built on non-age statement spirit. This approachable and light blend introduces the drinker to Yamazaki, Hakushu and Chita in one glass and is excellent neat, or in a highball serve.

One of the most luxurious examples of this blending art is the Hibiki 30 YO (£5,000) which, rather remarkably, is still attainable. The flavour directions here are mind-blowing diverse, including tropical fruits, citrus, floral, smoke, rich coconut and banana.

If you are dipping into the malt distilleries, there is much to explore. The demand for Japanese whisky has seen some barrels run dry, and rumours of depleted stocks have dominated the rhetoric in recent years. But Suntory, being the largest player in this industry, has protected its mature stock, and you can still find extraordinary 18YO and 25YO whiskies.

The waterfalls outside the Yamazaki distillery
The waterfalls outside the Yamazaki distillery

Suntory’s Yamazaki was Japan’s first single malt distillery and is famed for its delicate nature, lively fruit palate and influence of native Japanese Mizunara oak. The Yamazaki 18YO (£705) remains a benchmark, while the Suntory Yamazaki Mizunara (£5000) is an example of the how proficient the team here is when it comes to wood management. Mizunara oak can give subtle layers of flavour and aroma, and in the Yamazaki there is a host of warm sweet spices that has earned the whisky iconic status

Then there’s the Yamazaki 25YO, which is a highly sought after expression that has become renowned for its deep ruby colours and thick, rich and fruity palate. And for those prepared to put in some legwork, then the 2013 Yamazaki Sherry Cask has become so legendary amongst collectors that it will take some serious investigation to track down.

whisky
whisky

The Hakushu distillery, meanwhile, is a fine emblem of Japan’s balance with nature, resting in the forest foothills of Mount Kaikomagatake, and the whiskies here are diverse. Recognised for floral, herbaceous and smoky profiles, they use a selection of malts and four different stills here, ensuring the opportunities are endless.

The Hakushu 18YO (£600) is still available at an extraordinary price considering its reputation and undoubted collectability. And the Suntory Hakushu 25YO, (£4,000) amplifies the smoke, oak and body of the brand, and is rich and nutty.

A particularly important contribution Suntory has made to Japanese whisky is to present whisky the people of Japan will enjoy, and to that end, make the spirit incredibly accessible, removing any snobbery from the experience. The versatility of the whisky flavours here means it can be drunk at any time, in any way. I just hope those Olympians get to try some once the competition for medals is over...

Tom Sandham is one half of the Thinking Drinkers who will be touring their critically acclaimed drinks tasting shows from September. For all dates visit www.thinkingdrinkers.com

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