6 Reasons to Look for Squalane in Your Skincare
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Squalane is one of the buzziest skincare ingredients right now, but isn’t actually new—it’s just stepping into the spotlight thanks to renewed interest in tried-and-true ingredients, plus an innovative iteration that’s more pure and sustainably-derived. “It felt like overnight people had an awareness about squalane that was never there before,” says Samantha Ellis, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Northern California. “Squalane has long been beloved by dermatologists because it’s such a well-rounded moisturizer, really supports the skin barrier, and can serve multiple purposes.”
Ellis, who works with both adults and in pediatric dermatology is also a consultant for Pipette, a squalane-based skincare brand. It originally started as a baby skincare brand, and as its following grew, it expanded to offer products for all ages. Some of its top sellers are Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 and Baby Balm.
“Squalane is so impactful because it mimics a natural fat in our skin barrier called squalene,” says Ellis. “The skin barrier is composed of individual skin cells, and this mixture of natural fats and oils in between the cells seals them together to protect us from the outside world.” In fact, babies are literally coated in squalene when they come out of the womb; the “vernix” fluid that covers a newborn is 30% squalene.
As we age, we lose squalene, and can develop cracks in that barrier, leading to hydration loss and dry and flaky skin. It also allows external stressors to penetrate the skin and cause irritation. The biomimetic abilities of squalane allow for a safe, sustainable supplement to our skin barrier.
Here are 6 reasons to incorporate squalane into your routine–and how.
1. It’s a Super Hydrator
Squalane is a moisturizing ingredient that’s a bit of a unicorn in that it’s both an emollient and occlusive, and still remains lightweight on the skin.
“An emollient softens and helps smooth the microscopic cracks in our skin,” says Elllis. “An occlusive is a type of moisturizer that creates a prolonged seal on the skin barrier to help prevent water loss from the skin and keeps our skin hydrated. Squalane is one of a few ingredients capable of both without clogging pores.”
In studies*, squalane beat jojoba- and argan oils for short-term moisturization, with 51% immediate improvement and continued moisturization for 24 hours. Squalane has also been proven* to reduce a form of skin dehydration called transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by 13.9%.
2. It’s Ideal for Sensitive Skin
Squalane remains non-irritating no matter the amount in a formula—all the way up to 100% concentration. This is a key reason Pipette uses squalane in all of its products, especially in those created for babies. “Baby skin is still developing and strengthening for the first several months of life, making their skin more vulnerable,” says Ellis. “They have also not had as much environmental exposure yet, and so new exposures have the potential to be more irritating.” Squalane is perfect for creating skin protection when it’s naturally lacking.
This is true no matter your age, says Ellis: “A lot of people don’t realize that itchy skin can be a sign that the barrier is disrupted and squalane can help. It’s also helpful for skin conditions like eczema in which people naturally have a defect in their skin barrier.”
Studies have shown* that with use over 28 days, Squalane reduces skin roughness by 28%, leaving skin smoother and free of that itchy, tight, dry feeling.
3. It Has Built-In Anti-Aging Benefits
Squalane helps skin appear younger several ways. Because squalane is an emollient, it helps “fill in” cracks within the skin, which can help improve the appearance of fine lines. Even better, studies show* it also increases skin cell turnover by 34%, which in turn improves the texture and tone of the skin.
“Squalane also has antioxidant properties,” says Ellis. “Environmental stressors like UV radiation, pollution, and the metabolic process in our bodies can cause oxygen free radicals in the skin, which can damage important structures in the skin like collagen. Antioxidants act like sponges that can soak up oxygen free radicals.”
4. It’s Good for the Skin Microbiome
The microbiome is the world of good and bad bacteria that naturally lives on our skin—ideally in harmony—to help prevent skin conditions. Think of it as both a defense mechanism and a symbiotic partner in healthy, functioning skin. When the microbiome is in good shape, it can help with wound healing, reduce exposure to allergens, minimize oxidative damage, and protect against some UV damage. An unbalanced microbiome may contribute to issues like rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, eczema, and inflammation. Squalane may be helpful in improving the state of your microbiome. Studies show* that after two weeks of regular use of squalane skincare products, skin’s micro biodiversity increased by 17.9%
5. It’s Also Acne-Approved
“If you are struggling with acne, squalane can be beneficial because it can help support that skin barrier without worsening acne,” says Ellis. “A lot of times people who have acne might be on treatments that dry out the skin as a side effect. Using squalane can help restore the skin to a healthier state while they’re on treatment.”
Squalane’s non-comedogenic hydration also prevents skin from falling into the vicious cycle of over-drying and then breaking out. When skin becomes dry, this can trigger an overproduction of sebum to compensate, causing more pimples and blackheads.
6. It Can Be Sustainable
Many years ago, squalene in beauty products was derived from shark livers. This process has had a devastating environmental impact and received outrage from activists. As an alternative, squalane was developed from olive trees, but the process never became fully sustainable and allowed for too many impurities.
The squalane in Pipette products is created with renewable sugarcane through a bio-fermentation process with BioDesigned yeast and is now one of the most sustainable ingredients in the personal care space. This form of squalane is pure (94% - 97% purity), highly stable, and efficacious. “It’s a use of plant resources in a way that’s as non-wasteful as possible,” says Ellis.
*Research provided by Amyris
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