8 best retinols for age-defying skin
The jury is out on many aspects of skincare: should we be using skin oils? Are sunscreens getting in the way of Vitamin D uptake?
But one aspect of the category that does achieve remarkable consensus is the importance of using retinol – an anti-ageing super product that also increases radiance and encourages plumped-up, glowing skin. So, what exactly are retinols?
“They are forms of vitamin A, a fat-soluble vitamin that can penetrate the surface of the skin to exert direct effects on the DNA of skin cells,” says Dr David Jack, an aesthetic doctor specialising in skin health. In effect, retinols are communicators, which tell cells to behave like younger, healthier versions of themselves.
Read more: 8 best facial SPFs for dark skin that don’t leave an ashy cast
“They have a potent effect on the fibroblast cells of the skin, causing them to increase their production of collagen and elastin, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” Dr Jack adds.
“Retinol serums offer a myriad of other benefits, including regulating sebum production, which is particularly useful for people with oily skin issues such as acne,” as well as improving the appearance of large pores and regulating moisture production.
There are many different forms of retinol available and, where in the past you might have hesitated to use them if you had sensitive or rosacea-prone skin, there is now something well-suited to everybody.
“The key things with retinol is to start slowly,” says skincare specialist Alice Hart-Davis, author of Start With Skincare. “Use them at night, twice a week for two weeks, then three times a week, to allow your skin to acclimatise. Let the retinol sink in for 20 mins then use a moisturiser over the top. If your skin starts to get red, peeling or sore, back off, use it less, or mix it with moisturiser when applying to spread it more thinly.”
Since retinoids can cause temporary thinning of the upper protective layers of the skin, they put it at slightly higher risk of UV damage – which is why you should use them at night, and as ever, wear sunscreen. “Broad spectrum SPF use is a must,” Dr Jack adds. “I recommend at least factor 30, ideally 50+ to protect against both UVA and UVB.”
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Medik8 retinol 3TR
This is a fab starter retinol for anyone who’s unsure about it. The product contains a decent amount of retinol (0.3 per cent) and the TR stands for time release, which means it is dribbled into your skin overnight, rather than being dumped on in one go, and is kinder on your skin. It’s a small bottle, inexpensive and comes in a light and replenishing jojoba oil base.
Buy now £29.00, Thetweakmentsguide.com
Beauty Pie super retinol ceramide serum
To get your hands on this one you’ll have to sign up to members website Beauty Pie (from £5 a month). Assuming you are game so to do, along with the many other excellently priced products the site has to offer, this retinol serum is a real snip. Why do we like it? The retinols are encapsulated within the serum for slow release and combined with ceramides (lipids that help protect skin barrier) such as shea butter for hydrated and happy skin. Highly effective, and good for sensitive skin.
Buy now £14.08, Beautypie.com
SkinCeuticals tripeptide-r neck repair 0.2%
As you’d expect from this leader in the cosmeceutical world, SkinCeuticals does great retinols, at 0.3 per cent or, for a heavier hit, one per cent. We’ve tested and commend both but would especially highlight this new product which targets the neck. If, Nora Ephron-style, you find yourself dismayed by your neck (and having to look at it rather a lot over Zoom), this is just the thing to kick start rejuvenation and encourage a bit more elasticity and a smoother, less wattle-like texture.
Buy now £110.00, Skinceuticals.co.uk
Allies of Skin 1A retinal & peptides overnight mask
Allies of Skin is a cult brand for a reason, as it delivers potent ingredients in combinations which maximise their good effects. This overnight mask is a perfect case in point: it contains encapsulated retinols, brighteners, peptides, and antioxidants. An especially good choice if you are prone to blemishes and breakouts and have enlarged pores – and in a vegan formulation.
Buy now £105.00, Cult Beauty
La Roche-Posay redermic [R] retinol eye cream
With its redermic line, La Roche-Posay has created a brilliant value range of wrinkle-busters. The redermic retinol night moisturiser feels light to use and is both hypoallergenic and suitable for sensitive skins. This eye cream boasts caffeine as well as retinol and works against under eye bags as well as crow’s feet. Like many eye creams, it is quite rich, so not the best choice if you prefer a lighter, gel texture.
Buy now £20.25, Boots.com
ZO Skinhealth retinol skin brightener
ZO Skinhealth products are not for the faint hearted and if you are prone to rosacea or sore skin, only choose this under supervision from a dermatologist. That said, if you don’t mind a bit of stinging or flaking, and you build up carefully over time, in the three months we used this the results were astonishing: a repaired barrier (skin less sensitive and reactive), diminished pigmentation, smoother skin texture and fewer fine lines. In short: it worked.
Buy now £96.00, Facethefuture.co.uk
Chantecaille retinol hand cream
If retinols are the go-to for anti-ageing, it makes sense to consider them as a hand product in light of our hand’s thin skin, and how rarely we give them much in the way of sun protection. Particularly in these days of endless washing and sanitising, it makes sense to lavish some care on our mitts and this hand cream is a treat. It contains nourishing jasmine and mimosa, hydrating shea butter and collagen-wrapped retinols to encourage rejuvenation in the epidermis.
Buy now £62.00, Space NK
Neostrata correct comprehensive retinol 0.3% night serum
Go into the leading UK skin clinics and chances are they will stock Neostrata. In a simple but surprisingly effective move, it categorises its products into those that clarify, repair, resurface or, in this case, correct the appearance of fine lines and sagging skin tone. In less than four weeks of using this serum, skin felt more elastic to the touch, more even and more radiant. In short – we like it a lot.
Buy now £73.00, Dermacaredirect.co.uk
Retinol FAQs
Should I use a cream or a serum?
We advise that those with sensitive skin try a cream rather than a serum. The cream acts as a kind of buffer, coupling retinol with hydration, to soothe skin and minimise tightness and dryness at the source. If you already have a moisturiser that you know your skin likes and you don’t want the faff of adding another step to your routine, try a retinol booster, which you can mix with your existing product. Those without sensitive skin should try a serum, as their light formulas mean they are able to penetrate the skin quickly.
When should I start using a retinol?
Studies have shown that we lose one per cent of collagen every year from the age of 20, so the best time to start using products to boost its production is in your twenties. You may not have seen any visible signs of ageing yet, but retinol can be preventative too. That’s not to say that if you didn’t start young you won’t see the benefits: “The effects of retinol are seen at any ages and will always optimise your skin’s health,” says dermatologist Dr Howard Murad.
How is best to apply it?
Retinols may increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, so they should always be used at night. Apply on clean skin, after cleansing and toning, before you continue with your moisturiser, oil or other serums. As always, use an SPF during the day to protect your skin from sun damage, one of the main factors in skin ageing.
Are there any side effects?
Each person’s skin may react differently to retinols; some may experience absolutely no irritation on first use, others may find their skin dry, tight or even red and peeling after application. In almost all cases, any negative side effects decrease with repeated use and your skin should acclimatise within two to four weeks. If your skin becomes more irritated with repeated use, stop. “You can build up your tolerance over time,” says Dr Murad. “Introduce it slowly by using small doses up to three times a week, and build up to using it more frequently.”
What percentage of retinol should I use?
You’ll find that many brands don’t list the percentage retinol of their products, but that isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Percentages aren’t a straightforward measure: what matters is the type of retinoid, its molecular weight (and therefore how deeply it penetrates skin) and its formulation. Some over-the-counter products will be technically higher percentage retinol than prescription-only ones, but the latter will still be more potent. The formula makes a difference, too: a 0.3 per cent serum will be more effective than a 0.3 per cent cream. If you are concerned with the percentage, most will be in the 0.25 to one per cent range, but even very small doses have still been shown to be effective with consistent and repeated use.
The verdict: Retinols
Retinols are superbly effective and we would recommend putting quality retinols (along with Vitamin C serums) as a central part of your regime. They are a valuable investment. We have been deeply impressed by the effects of the Skinceuticals neck repair and also by the Neostrata correct, but neither of them come cheap. For a lovely product, which is suitable for most skin types and really well priced, we really can’t fault the Medik8 option. Just (at risk of repeating) do make sure not to forget your sunscreen.
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