An actually useful guide to island hopping in the Philippines

From Cosmopolitan

If diving with turtles, discovering hidden lagoons and island hopping between white sand beaches sounds like something you're keen to tick off your travel bucket list, I’ll let you in on a little secret: the Philippines should be riiiiiight at the top.

After months of research and Instagram stalking, I narrowed down my lengthy list, from the country's seven thousand islands (!) to a handful of must-visit locations, including El Nido and Coron in Palawan, Moalboal in Cebu and Siquijor in the Visayas region. Allow this guide to provide all the details you need to live your best life in this Southeast Asian haven.

Where we stayed

For a heavenly escape from your busy home life, make Club Paradise Palawan in Coron your base. The resort is on its own island - Dimakya Island – which is an hour's scenic car and boat ride away from Coron's main town. Their charming, rustic Sunset Villas come complete with a beach-facing terrace and hammock, the biggest bed you've ever seen and sunbeds out front - all a mere 10 steps from the shore. It's that sort of place you visualise in your head everytime you feel stressed.

Dimakya Island is dotted along the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, so the land and surrounding water is teaming with wildlife. Friendly Hawksbill and Green Sea turtles reside here along the shore so you can snorkel and dive alongside them in their natural habitat. A friendly Night Heron bird would join me for breakfast every morning, while a colony of resident fruit bats would leave their home island to hunt every evening - a breath-taking sight as thousands of them fly across the sky during sunset (and coincidentally, happy hour).

The only bad thing about being on a remote island is leaving the island every evening for dinner and drinks isn’t really an option. Fortunately, the food at Club Paradise was first-class. From Thai green seafood curry to signature dishes like chicken and pork Adobo with garlic rice, it was some of the tastiest food I ate during the entire trip. To ramp up the romantic vibes, dine alfresco on the beach one evening and sip cocktails with your toes in the sand. The dream.

What we did

If you don’t fancy relaxing on your sunbed all day, the resort offers free kayaking, paddle boarding and snorkelling equipment so you can discover the surroundings above or underwater. Club Paradise also offer dive courses for any ability - being so close to the shore with virtually no current means it's perfect diving conditions for a total beginner (like me!)

Having everything I needed on the island made me think twice (ok, 100 times) about leaving. If you can make it off the island, there's so much more to do during your stay in Coron:

• Swim in the crystal-clear waters of Kayangan Lake, Coron’s most famous natural (and undeniably most beautiful) attraction. Don't forget to stop at the top for a panoramic view of Coron Bay, an Instagram shot that will never need a filter.

• Siete Pecados Marine Park is like an underwater forest. Snorkel through hundreds of different species of fish and fluorescent coral and prepare to feel like you're living an episode of The Blue Planet IRL.

• Among the backdrop of black, jagged cliffs is a stunning pair of lagoons called the Twin Lagoons. Through a tiny gap, you can swim under the cliff and feel like you're discovering it all by yourself.

• Head to Maquinit Hot Spring, a salt-water hot spring oasis in the mountains with a cracking view of the ocean.

El Nido is one of those bucket list destinations, and likely the one you’ve already heard most about. Located on Palawan island, El Nido is all about the hidden lagoons, movie-like islands and of course, some of the best beaches in the world.

Where we stayed

Stay at Cuna Hotel, simply for the breathtaking happy hour views at their rooftop restaurant. The hotel is in the heart of El Nido's main town and only a 10-minute walk from the port where the renowned island hopping group boat trips depart early morning. Rooms are comfy and clean (but basic) and wifi only works in reception, but who needs this kind of luxury when the beaches are THAT good?

After a budget option? Watch breathtaking sunsets with like-minded travellers at the social Outpost Beach Hostel in Corong Corong, from only £12 per night for a bed in a 12-person shared dorm.

What we did

Want to experience all of the gems in El Nido’s archipelago? Choose from four well-known island-hopping group boat tours (A, B ,C or D), with each local Bangka Boat visiting a selection of islands with different activities. After weeks of Insta-stalking, I picked tours A and C, both of which include a lunch and visit to 5-6 attractions, with activities like swimming and snorkelling.

• Tour A - visit either the famous Small Lagoon OR Big Lagoon and kayak or swim through the calm waters. You’ll also visit Simizu Island and Secret Lagoon. Our boat docked at Seven Commandos beach for lunch, and we played volleyball and sipped cocktails from coconuts. Bliss.

• Tour C – if you’re a total beach bum, this tour visits Hidden Beach, Helicopter Island, Secret Beach, Matinloc Shrine and Star Beach where you can sunbathe and snorkel to your heart’s content.

Top tip: Some of the locations can get extremely busy with the other boats so if you’d rather avoid arriving with a crowd of other excitable tourists, rent your own kayak or get a private boat tour. Ask them to visit them in a different order so you're more likely to get the beach to yourself/your group.

After a day of coconuts, snorkelling and stroking cute beach puppies, head down to Las Cabanas Beach - one of the quietest and most unspoilt white-sand beaches I’ve ever seen. Las Cabanas Beach Resort’s bar has THE best setting for the unreal Filipino sunsets. If kicking back with a cocktail isn’t adventurous enough for you, you can also do an incredible superman Zip Line here over turquoise water to a nearby island and back.

Spending the day at Nacpan Beach is must for the beach obsessed. It’s a 45-minute drive from El Nido town, but when you lay eyes on the blinding white 4km stretch of sand lined with palm trees, you’ll be mesmerised. Head back to town in the evening, which is packed with cool little food spots and bars. Trattoria Altrove will satisfy your pizza needs and Happiness Beach Bar serves incredible vegan falafel pitas (try their Shakshuka for breakfast). SAVA is also a lively beachfront bar with great cocktails and great music.

If you're travelling south from Cebu City to Moalboal, you can take a bus from the South Terminal in Cebu which will take 3-4 hours and will cost you around 100-130PHP (£1.50-£2).

Where we stayed

It’s worth the trek when you discover the hidden piece of paradise called The Blue Orchid Resort, which backs out onto one of the only sandy beaches in Moalboal; White Beach. The resort itself is nestled in a mini jungle, so it's a divinely peaceful spot to switch off from the outside world. There is a PADI 5* Dive Centre onsite with experienced instructors and great quality equipment, so if you’re a keen diver (or even an eager beginner!), the staff will happily organise and host your trips, from swimming with whale sharks to diving the famous Sardine Run.

The staff went above and beyond to make me feel welcome here and help to made my trip unforgettable. I even met some amazing and sociable travellers from all over the world! The resort even has a friendly resident dog called Maple and a Hornbill bird called Esmerelda, so you're definitely in great company during your stay.

What we did

Moalboal is famed for its epic Sardine Run, which unlike South Africa can be experienced year-round. You can dive or snorkel with thousands of them as they move together in unison, which is unique to Moalboal in the Philippines. Coral reefs around the area are incredibly bio-diverse, and it's also a famous diving spot because of its schools of turtles. Don’t worry if you don’t fancy diving - you can see everything just as clearly with a snorkel. The turtles even swim towards you, right up close to your face!

The best part about this activity is that it's only 30 metres from the shore, so you don’t need to pay for a tour or rent a boat. I definitely didn’t regret taking a boat trip with the Blue Orchid resort’s staff though, who guided me through one of the most unique things to do in Cebu. Definitely not something to miss out on.

If jumping off 15 metre waterfalls sounds like a thrill to you, don’t miss out on canyoneering at Kawasan Falls in Badian. After a terrifying, eyes-were-streaming motorbike ride to get there (with three of us sandwiched on a bike), my adrenaline was carried through to climbing and jumping off waterfalls. The scariest moment was no doubt a waterfall jump where you had to do a running jump so you wouldn’t hit the rocks below. Blue Orchid provided me with my own private guide, which meant that I didn't have to wait ages in a big group to wait my turn to jump, and I felt a lot safer. The trip culminates at the famous Kawasan Falls, where you stop to chill and have lunch.

You'll find delicious food at Blue Orchid, but if you fancy venturing out, don’t miss a trip to Ven’z Kitchen which serves up SUPER cheap (but SUPER tasty) Filipino food. Head to Cafe Cebuanoc for a post-dinner cocktail, right by Panagsama beach. If you fancy a late night and some Pitbull bangers, Chilli Bar attracts both backpackers, locals and anyone else up for a party.

Up for heading away from the crowds? Siquijor is a remote island in the Visayas, which was once called Isla del Fuego (Island of Fire) because of its mysterious trait of appearing to glow at night. The island, which is said to be full of magic and witchcraft, is a 2-hour ferry ride from Dumaguete in Southern Cebu or a 1 hour flight from Manila. Some Filipinos will still be in shock when you tell them you’re going to Siquijor, but in reality, it's a quiet island with beautiful sunsets, tarzan swings and friendly locals.

Where we stayed

It's worth heading to Salamangka Beach and Dive Resort in San Juan for the sunset views alone. Probably why their resort’s name – Salamangka – translates to ‘magic’ in the local dialect. I stayed in one of the five 'bay view lofts' in the resort (around £115 per night), where you will literally open your eyes every morning to the breathtaking views of the outdoor pool and beach.

The best thing about the resort is (obviously) the swim-up bar, so grab a drink, lay back on your sunbed and watch the sunset every evening.

What we did

Could there be anything more inviting than casually driving around a small island; stopping off at hidden lagoons to swing off ropes into the water and discovering cute local cafes for lunch? If your answer is ‘hell no’, Siquijor is the place for you.

Rent a scooter to explore the island in one day, simply by following the quiet coastal ring road (the only actual tarmac road on the whole island!). Be sure to go in search of tranquil waterfalls like the hidden Lugnason Falls and Lagaan Falls and stop off at the 400-year-old enchanted Banyan Tree - the pond underneath is a natural fish spa, and you can’t help but giggle as the fish nibble your feet.

Swing off ropes swings into the Cambugahay Falls, a three-tiered cascading waterfall that you can paddle and swim in. Of course, there’s plenty of beaches to stop off at including the secluded Paliton beach and Salagdoong Beach for incredible cliff-diving.

In the evening, check out Baha Bar for live music, craft beer and a yummy tapas-style menu as well as Dagsa for fancy interiors, more live music and a tasty Filipino favourite: chicken adobo. The locals in Siquijor like to sleep early, so it’s a great place to go for the ultimate detox. No shopping malls, fast food chains, supermarkets or nightclubs to be seen!

FYI...

• Always carry some spare Philippine pesos (PHP). Cash machines are few and far between and can also sometimes run out of money. If you visit a small town like Port Barton, you're unlikely to find a single ATM.

• Plan your route and accommodation in advance. The Philippines is an archipelago, so getting around isn't as simple as driving from the capital Manila to El Nido. Thankfully, navigating across islands is cheap and easier than it looks: three major airlines (AirAsia Philippines, Cebu Pacific, and PAL Express) use Manila and Cebu city to connect to smaller airports throughout the country. Even so, make sure to plan your route (and have back up alternative routes) in advance, especially in peak season from November to March. I learnt the hard way after the daily ferry from Coron to El Nido sold out and I had to book a last-minute flight for five times the price...

• Take a reusable water bottle. The country is serious about the use of plastic, especially after Borocay closed last year due to being ruined by tourists. You can’t take plastic bottles to the islands in El Nido, and there are refill stations everywhere.

• Take an underwater camera. The #1 regret of many travellers. I wish I could have captured all the incredible marine life I saw, from turtles to sea snakes to the famous Sardine Run.

• Do your research. It’s easy as a tourist to be ripped off with taxis and tricycle trips, particularly coming from the airport. Ask other backpackers and don’t be afraid to haggle prices with the locals.

• Plan your dives. You shouldn’t take a flight for at least 18 hours after you dive so bare this in mind when island hopping and catching multiple flights throughout your trip.

• Speak to the locals - Apart from being the nicest, most helpful and humble people I’ve ever met (sorry Londoners), Filipinos are the 5th happiest citizens on the planet. Learn their ways!

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