Amazing vistas: Tiny Truro hiking trail with a huge reward

TRURO — The mysterious trail at Pilgrim Heights had been bugging me for years. Finally, despite my sloth-like ways and world class talent for procrastination, I decided to do something about it.

You've probably zoomed by the Cape Cod National Seashore's Pilgrim Heights area a million times on the way to Provincetown. It's right off Route 6, just before you get that awesome view of the Cape tip as the highway spills down toward East Harbor.

The area is home to a couple of dandy, short Seashore trails (Small's Swamp and Pilgrim Spring) that deliver big vistas and connect to the Head of the Meadow Bike Trail, which allows you to create longer hikes that can bring the beach into play. There are two large parking areas at Pilgrim Heights, and seasonal restrooms that can come in handy in the hurly-burly summertime.

I often spin into Pilgrim Heights to grab a few moments of bliss and a good view. Occasionally, I would see a car or two parked right at the beginning of the first parking area. This always seemed strange to me, as it was kind of far away from the entrance to the two Seashore trails.

One day, I saw someone walking into the woods there and finally noticed a small trail entrance. The "where the heck does that go?" alarm in my brain went off, and I resolved to investigate. Of course, that was years ago, and my resolution was replaced by daydreams of beer and heirloom tomatoes.

That's the story I told the Curious Prius the other day. The trusty car seemed upset by my laziness. In stern beep-speak, it ordered me to get into the driver's seat, and moments later we came to rest at Pilgrim Heights.

The tiny trail starts on the left side of the first parking area, right where the parking spots begin. It's narrow, a bit of a leg-brusher, so I was glad to be wearing my permethrin-treated trousers. But it was wicked exciting to be walking on a mysterious trail, with no idea where it led.

I stumbled along through forest and small fields for about a quarter mile, with one good peek at the ocean. Then the trail intersected with a dirt road. Just for the heck of it, I went to the left and turned into a whistling goofball on a classic Cape Cod country lane.

Eventually, I saw blue at the end of the road. It was Cape Cod Bay! And I knew where I was: High Head, home to some of the most spectacular views on the Cape.

High Head looms dramatically over East Harbor, almost like an ancient fortress. The exciting elevation makes it one of the few places you can see the bay and the ocean at the same time. Plus, you get a good look at Provincetown and the dunescape of the Province Lands.

Sandy roads run along the plateau and it takes a bit of nerve to drive around up there, especially near the edge of the cliff. There are no guardrails, and a poorly-timed sneeze could prove perilous. But it's heaven for a hiker.

There's no way to keep up a good pace, because the stop and gawk factor is off the charts. Teeny cars spin along Route 6 below. Those identical Truro cottages along the bay look like doll houses. The Pilgrim Monument pierces the distant horizon. A dune shack floats in the sand between East Harbor and the Atlantic. It's all so good!

Grudgingly, I left the world of vistas, spinning along the dirt road at the back of High Head. And it all worked out. I came back to the teeny trail and walked to the waiting Prius. The whole walk was about a mile and a half.

Sometimes, a mystery trail turns into a dead end and a bunch of poison ivy. This one paid off, big-time. And it only took me a decade to try it!

Eric Williams, when not solving Curious Cape Cod mysteries, writes about a variety of ways to enjoy the Cape, the weather, wildlife and other subjects. Contact him at ewilliams@capecodonline.com. Follow him on X: @capecast.

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This article originally appeared on Cape Cod Times: Hiking Cape Cod: Small Truro Trail takes you to incredible vistas