I ate 24 pizzas in 24 days at 24 Charlotte-area pizzerias. Here’s what I learned.
Chef Sam Hart is the Counter- and Biblio chef and owner and was a finalist for Best Chef Southeast in the 2023 James Beard Awards. They recently ate 24 pizzas from 24 Charlotte restaurants in 24 consecutive days. Here’s what they learned.
There is an old saying within the restaurant community: “pastry is a science and cooking is an art.” When you bake a cake, you use a formula. When you cook risotto it’s a waltz between recipe and improv. However, within the realm of culinary arts there lies the true marriage of both: pizza.
An understanding of bread smithing and a love of flavor building is key to a phenomenal pie. Then on top of that, the best pizzaioli are well-versed in the dark magic of fermentation.
Some believe that when I ate 24 pizzas in 24 days it was a “r&d” or to find out who was the best. In reality, it was the best excuse to feed my addiction to this culinary pinnacle.
So, what makes the perfect pie? During my excursions I’ve learned three elements separate the remedial and the supreme. Those three elements are: ingredients, cookery and patience.
It is at this point where you must realize this list will be esoteric and nerdy. “Cheese-pull” and “grease-drip” will not be deciding factors. There are plenty of other lists that will do that. Going through the rigorous process of tasting hundreds of samples from distributors, thousands of hours of “getting it down” and being willing to let the yeast gods do their bidding on your crust is not for the meek.
This list will highlight those peel-wielding warriors who bleed marinara.
The pie you’ll love forever: Pizzeria Di Cicco — Waxhaw
When you meet the Di Cicco family on a Sunday, it’s far from what you would predict: A couple who met in Cali but have roots in the Philippines and Pittsburgh taking brief moments of respite outside their 120F truck while entertaining any guest wanting to hear the pizza madness. Why they moved down to Waxhaw with their son after living over a decade in Philadelphia, I don’t know, but I’m so thankful they did.
Within the Pizzeria Di Cicco food truck (yes, it’s mobile too), Anthony is slinging out dough, while Anna is calling out orders, and their son is hand-delivering pies to customers. They make everything on this truck: dough, sauce, toppings, everything.
Most high-level pizzerias are so focused on temperature control they have separate dough rooms that are temperature and humidity controlled. Not here. This pizza is wild. The sourdough “biga” is bubbling away while shaped doughs are hanging out in the retarding cabinet. Di Cicco also has a built-in pizza oven that I didn’t care to ask about the expense, because I would balk.
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The pies can be selected in four categories: margherita, marinara, garlic white and bianca. From here, you can add whichever toppings you want, from mushrooms to Calabrian chili to soppressata. Frankly, you can’t go wrong with any combo. There is one major missing additional ingredient: no ranch. I adore this so much. It is reminiscent of other pizzerias I’ve dined at: You can’t have our pizza unless you do it right.
The last time we ate at Di Cicco it was at the new Pineville mainstay of Open Tap. We ordered six pies, all different to understand the diversity of pizza the Di Cicco’s can craft. What I noticed, is later on in the day, the dough becomes even more alive, and with it the tangy, bubbly, crispiness makes this crust unrivaled.
I have never laughed while eating pizza, until now. Not only did it taste great, and my geeky lizard brain was pleased, but my heart filled with joy each time I saw this family crafting happiness.
The pie you’ll tell everyone about: Geno D’s — Seventh Street Public Market
This family doesn’t mess around. You order Geno D’s Pizza their way, you eat their way, and when you post on social media, they make sure you get it right. When people talk about the best pizzas in the world, they usually bring up Brooklyn, Manhattan, New Haven, Chicago and Italy, but I am convinced that across the board, the average American truly loves the Jersey pie the most. These pies are thin crust without being a cracker, crispy without being rock hard, and tangy without being overly acidic.
Geno moved his operation and daughter, Gena, down to Charlotte from Toms River, NJ, back in 2009. In 2020, they decided to take over and opened the father’s namesake in 7th Street. Geno worked alongside the previous tenant, Pure Pizza, for years before, but it was his time to make his pies.
I’ve never had a pizza where I wanted to eat it backwards. Geno has perfected the thin semolina crust to such a degree that I start there and finish on the San Marzano tomatoes. I’m unsure of the oven they use, but it has been sprinkled with fairy dust.
The ability to crisp up the pepperoni without burning the other toppings or destroying that majestic crust will one day nominate them for a Nobel Prize of Science. Being represented correctly and verifying that your name is on your creation is beyond admirable. Don’t make a mistake of mislabeling or misrepresenting their pies, as they have a social media hawk who will make sure it’s corrected. It’s an unabashed ownership that I admire.
Out of all three of these institutions, Geno D’s will be the place I can easily recommend to every single resident and tourist of the Queen City.
The pie you’ll rethink life over: Bird Pizzeria — Optimist Park
Since my escapades ended, I’ve been nonstop asked “who was the best.” This, just like everything in food, is completely subjective. But the question “which pizza made me rethink pizza” is Bird Pizzeria.
Up until pre-ordering, coordinating a pick-up, waiting in line and finally securing this pie, I didn’t think pizza would ever be worth more than the hassle of picking up a phone. Kerrel and Nkem what you have done is the impossible: made me put Chicago and best pizza in the same sentence. Thankfully, it’s not the pizza casserole of deep dish, instead this is the Frankenstein child of tavern style, Neapolitan, New Haven and Jersey style pies.
You can see the thought process when you open the box. The Thompsons tried dozens of tomatoes to make the unique choice of selecting the Alta Cucina, which should forever be the pizza tomato (Come at me, San Marzano purists). Deciding on grated parm as the start versus fresh mozz, the tiny pepperoni, the blend of flours, the intense cook on the crust — all of these point to someone who is a craftsperson not just a chef.
Ingrained in my mind and branded on my taste buds forever will be flavors that are singular to what comes out of their oven. It’s not just worth the wait — and price. It’s worth trying 23 other pies to learn there is something out there meriting another category.
What I learned about Charlotte pizza
Most important takeaway is that Charlotte is a Grade-A pizza town. Natives and transplants alike bash the Queen City’s food scene constantly.
Yes, we have room to grow, and corporate warlords that currently have my hometown below the level of others, but we should take a moment to embrace what we do have. The families making the staple of every home are worthy of a special journey. Go support them.
You won’t leave disappointed.
[READ NEXT: We asked and you voted. Here is the Readers’ Choice pick for best pizza in Charlotte.]
Want to go on a pizza-eating adventure around Charlotte? Check out the full list of the 24 pizzerias Sam visited.
