Azzaro Couture Spring 2022
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Olivier Theyskens upped the suiting quotient for Azzaro couture this season. “I really wanted to mix more masculine and feminine codes, and have a more fluid balance in the collection,” he explained.
Simplicity and streamlining were names of the game, too. Theyskens has been slowly sifting through piles of archival sketches in his studio at the house. “You can see that [Azzaro fashion] has a simplicity. It’s an interesting thing for me, and it’s true to this place.”
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Cut to the strong yet minimalistic looks he created, such as the elongated lamé pants festooned with tiny sequins. “I like it because it could be retro and futurist at the same time,” he said.
That’s an apt description of most garments in the collection. Take the suiting, which comes with a twist. A classically cut jacket covered with silver sequins and matching pants is worn with a fluid, deep gray turtleneck shirt.
“The allure is a little bit oversize, very relaxed and fluid,” said Theyskens, adding some sartorial looks constructed with technical and flowing fabrics are echoed in the men’s wear.
He carefully chose colors, opting for faded shades, like a silvery teal, nodding to the ’70s. Theyskens also delved deeper into his ongoing exploration of sequins, using a variety of sizes — all the way to jumbo, with an abstract effect. Sequins spilled over some of the long, fluid dresses, too, a few of which featured Azzaro’s signature circular cutouts.
There’s a sensuality to the wider sleeves in chiffon and exposed backs, of dresses devoid of heavy ornamentation. “I went softer with the dresses,” Theyskens said. Those synced well with the suits.
Azzaro’s film is enigmatic, with models walking on an urban rooftop. Here find bone-colored tree trunk-like forms with lopped-off branches, metallic supports and real-life plants. It’s all mysterious — yet familiar — like the fashion.
Launch Gallery: Azzaro Couture Spring 2022
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