A new bakery in Fresno sells cakes, cinnamon rolls and more. Here’s why it’s different
When a pastry chef realizes gluten makes him sick, it’s a problem.
The protein in flour is in most every cake, pie and dessert that Varouj Kachichian had baked in his career.
“That was my thing,” he said. “I literally lived on gluten. I made a living off gluten and was covered in gluten.”
So rather than let it be a career ender, he decided to turn those metaphorical lemons life gave him into lemon cake — and a whole lot of other cakes. A bakery full of them, in fact.
He opened the The Bakery by Indulge Right Foods earlier this month, at the northeast corner of Shaw and West avenues, in the rear of the center behind Dutch Bros Coffee.
“It’s a typical bakery, except gluten free,” Kachichian said.
Everything in here is gluten free. There’s not a speck of regular flour anywhere.
Gluten-free everything
And there’s a lot more than cakes: Cinnamon rolls, sourdough bread, ciabatta, muffins, cheesecake, brownies, and cookies.
“You shouldn’t be able to taste that it’s gluten free,” he said. “The ultimate goal is to make sure nobody can tell the difference.”
The bakery uses a blend of flours — including rice, tapioca and potato — in its baked goods.
Some products are also keto friendly and vegan. Indulge Right also sells a line of chocolate and caramel sauces that are sugar free.
Health reasons
For many customers who have celiac disease (an autoimmune disease where gluten damages the small intestine), or other various sensitivities to it, having a bakery where they don’t have to worry about getting sick is a big deal.
Maryfran Johnson of Fresno was in the store recently — her second visit — buying for her daughter, who has a gluten allergy.
“She hasn’t eaten the crust of a cheesecake in seven years,” she said. (And yes, they bought a cheesecake there and her daughter ate it — and the crust — and enjoyed it, her mom said.)
On its first day, the bakery sold out of everything within an hour an a half.
Customer Kimberly Smith, who has a gluten intolerance, came too late that day. But she came back again to get some bread.
“To be able to have (gluten-free) bread that’s already made for me from scratch is incredible,” she said.
Although you can find bakeries with gluten-free products around town, it’s hard to find bakeries that don’t also bake food with gluten in it. For people who are especially sensitive to it, potential contamination can be risky.
The Bakery by Indulge Right isn’t a certified gluten-free business, but Kachichian is a certified gluten-free practitioner. There is no gluten in any of the ingredients that come through the doors.
“No gluten anywhere,” Kachichian said, “to the point where staff can’t have lunch in here unless it’s gluten free.”
The pastry chef’s story
For him, it’s personal.
He worked with traditional flour for years in various bakeries and businesses, including Bistro Rustica. He had back pain, joint pain and eventually seizures.
Twelve years ago, he was diagnosed with non-Celiac gluten sensitivity.
“When I went gluten-free, all of my issues went away,” he said.
So now, he specializes in it.
Bread, cakes and holiday-related desserts are available for pre-order.
Most cakes cost from $35 to $95 (the prices reflect the specialty ingredients used in them). You can get a cinnamon roll for $5 and a “death by chocolate” flourless chocolate cake for $65.
There are also scones, biscotti, cookies and an ever-expanding roster of other goodies.
Longtime Fresnans may also recognize a friendly face at the bakery. Goretti Almeida, who used to own Le Parisien Cafe, is working behind the counter.
Details: The Bakery by Indulge Right Foods is at 5096 N. West Ave. Hours: 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesdays through Sundays. 559-478-4063.
