Short North's Service Bar restaurant reopens with well-traveled chef
In a short 10 years, Chris Connolly went from working as a volunteer chef to taking over the kitchen at Service Bar, known as one of central Ohio's most creative kitchens.
It's been quite a journey for the Youngstown native, who had no experience in a restaurant, other than washing dishes, until the age of 21.
Located in Middle West Spirits, 1230 Courtland Ave. in the Short North area, Service Bar flourished under accomplished chef Avishar Barua, who went onto start his own restaurant, Joya's, in Worthington.
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Connolly, 31, is among a new generation of chefs, using dehydration techniques, emulsifiers, imported oils, dozens of ingredients in one dish and laboring for hours over plates that are prettily presented yet appetizing.
"Every dish is meant to be simple on the plate but complex in taste," said Connolly.
For example, one chilled starter offers Chioggia beets that are braised in spices, herbs and vinegar, smoked and cut into bite sized pieces. The burrata, meanwhile, is a soft, sweet version of mozzarella cheese. The plate's flourishes include licorice powder and a homemade oat granola with vanilla and fermented honey.
"I believe in doing things authentically," he said. "I don't do things just do to it."
The halibut is cured in seaweed and plated with potatoes and highlighted with piccalilli mustard and Kashmiri curry for a spicy bite.
The entire menu fits one page, featuring hot and cold starters ($16 to $23) and entrees ($14 to $36).
Service Bar is one of the rare central Ohio places where diners can find gnudi, known as a temperamental Italian dish similar to gnocchi. The ricotta-based dish includes egg, Parmigiana-Reggiano, blacked shaved truffle and turmeric for a sunny appearance, plus butternut squash puree and celeriac sauce.
Some dishes are gluten free and vegetarian options are plentiful.
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COVID savaged Service Bar, forcing the restaurant to offer only carryout only for six months and to close for 18 months. The restaurant reopened Oct. 13 with Connolly at the helm.
When he decided to pursue a career in culinary arts, Connolly religiously studied cookbooks before moving to Chicago to be cast as a stagiare, a sort of intermittent apprentice chef, at renowned Alinea, a three-star Michelin restaurant.
With support from friends and and family, he worked for free for two months, accepting any job the ownership threw at him.
He left for the Inn at Little Washington in Virginia, another restaurant earning three Michelin stars, where he started picking vegetables, moved up to butchering and eventually ascending to lead line cook.
After more than 3 years, he left for Amangani Resort in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, where rooms start at $1,000 a night and superlative food is an expectation, Connolly said.
"After shift, I fell in love with nature," he said, traveling 1,000 miles in each direction to explore the West.
He started his trek back to Ohio after a detour at The Greenbrier, in West Virginia, another resort known for its fine bill of fare, where he became chef de cuisine.
At Service Bar, Connolly said he will switch up the menu often but is less likely to do what is considered a seasonal menu.
The space, with an impressive rustic backbar, seats 75, which includes a private dining room.
"To find a chef of this caliber from Ohio, and in Ohio laying low, I feel like I've hit the jackpot," said David Albright, hospitality manager of the restaurant.
Hours are 5 to 9:30 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays. For more information or to make reservations, call 614-947-1231.
onrestaurants@dispatch.com
This article originally appeared on The Columbus Dispatch: Acclaimed Service Bar restaurant reopens with new chef
