How the new Billie Holiday film recreates her glamorous '50s wardrobe

Director Lee Daniels’ latest film The United States Vs. Billie Holiday isn’t the first to tell the legendary singer’s story, but it might well be the most stylish, thanks to a collaboration with Prada on the costumes.

The Italian fashion house worked with Daniels’ longtime costume designer Paolo Nieddu to create nine looks for actress Andra Day to wear when performing as Holiday, all of them inspired by the gowns worn by the star in real life, as well as looks from Fifties fashion magazines and designs from past Prada collections.

From the opening scene, in which Day is seen performing in a white sequinned gown, signature gardenia in her hair, we can see how these costumes play a pivotal role, enhancing the sense of glamour and stage presence surrounding Holiday as a performer. It’s an image that sits in stark contrast with the depictions of drug abuse and domestic violence that blighted the singer’s life off-stage.

A yellow satin dress with defined shoulders and long draped sleeves is another highlight - while the cut is in keeping with the film’s 1950s period, it looks current and wearable enough that it wouldn’t have looked out of place at Prada’s autumn/winter 2021 catwalk show (which in turn featured a couple of Holiday-esque sequinned dresses with fur stoles.)

Indeed, given that the film is being released during a fashion month devoid of live catwalk shows, it seems as savvy a move on Prada’s part as it is on Daniels’. A top filmmaker has the power to imbue the designs with significance and bring them to life, potentially introducing the label to a new audience.

Daniels says it was Anna Wintour who first suggested he work with Prada on the costumes. “She knew I couldn’t go wrong with Prada,” he told the US edition of Vogue. “I was going to throw myself at Miuccia’s feet as she’s a genius, but I didn’t have to. She admired my work, and I am such a fan of hers, so we were excited.”

The film charts the troubled latter years of Holiday’s life, when, at the height of her fame - and her struggle with addiction - she was targeted by the US government for singing Strange Fruit, a song about lynching, in an effort to cast a racial lens on the war on drugs. Day has already been nominated for two Golden Globes for her performance.

And with awards season set to go ahead this year - albeit later than usual - Day promises to be a new red carpet favourite, particularly if the film’s relationship with Prada extends to dressing its leading lady off screen too. I can’t wait to find out.

The United States Vs. Billie Holiday is available to watch in the UK on Sky Cinema from Saturday.