Bonifacio's Filipino fare a winning combination of Spanish, Asian and American flavors
For six years, Bonifacio in the Grandview Heights area has been growing a steady fan base for its modern Filipino cuisine.
Owner Krizzia Yanga said the food is a rich blend of Spanish, Asian and even American.
“I guess flavor-profile-wise, it’s that mix of savory umami, of sweetness and acidity; not so much heat,” she said “It’s not a very spicy cuisine. There are some areas of the Philippines where it is more common but our dishes aren’t spicy.”
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The lumpia ($4 for two) is the Filipino version of a spring roll, with a thin deep-fried wrapper filled with ground pork, carrots, garlic, onions and celery, and served with a sweet chili dipping sauce. (A vegetable option also is available.)
The chicken pyanggang ($12) is one of the most popular dishes at Bonifacio but rare in many restaurants because it comes from the southern Philippines, where Yanga’s mother, Lida, also a cook at the restaurant, was raised.
The bold dish starts with a marinade of burnt coconut, ginger, turmeric and lemongrass, which also is used to baste the bone-in quarter chicken using the thigh and leg.
Adobo pork ribs ($13), the unofficial dish of the Philippines, is braised in soy, vinegar, garlic, brown sugar and pepper braised and finished on the stove for texture.
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“The adobo ribs are just fall-off-the-bone tender,” Yanga said. “It’s savory, just really satisfying, a good meal in terms of the portion.”
Lighter appetites might appreciate the pancit ($12) — rice noodles sauteed with chicken, sausage, garlic, onion and vegetables.
A lime served on the side “is just a really great way to brighten up the flavors,” Yanga said.
Deep-fried tofu ($12), tossed in a spicy chili sauce, has a firm exterior but largely maintains its soft texture, she said.
The meal is served with garlic rice and salad.
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Pork belly ($13) is cut into planks, baked in a citrus-soy sauce and grilled, helping render some of the fat.
“It’s not going to be as fatty as a deep-fried pork belly,” Yanga said. “That one is definitely balanced in terms of fat and meat. But, obviously, when you eat pork belly you’re going to get that fat, which is what people are looking for when they eat pork belly.”
Bonifacio
Where: 1577 King Ave., Grandview Heights area
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays; 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturdays; and 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays
Contact: 614-914-8115, https://bonifacio614.com/
This article originally appeared on The Columbus Dispatch: Bonifacio near Grandview offers modern Filipino cuisine
