Book Across the Bay is a one-of-a-kind trek on frozen Lake Superior, with a new route this year

There are a variety of ways you could describe Book Across the Bay, a ski and snowshoe race across frozen Lake Superior.

“Funky” and “kitschy” are two words Ben Thoen, the race’s vice president, used to describe it.

Others might be a little more blunt: crazy. Trekking on a frozen Great Lake in the middle of the night, temperatures barely hitting the double digits, if you're lucky? For some, that's a hard pass.

But there is one thing both parties would probably agree on: “It's unlike anything that we've found anywhere,” Thoen said. It definitely is one way to help pass the long, cold Wisconsin winter.

The race, which Thoen described as more of an event than an actual race, takes cross-country skiers, snowshoers and hikers on a 10-kilometer course across Lake Superior’s frozen Chequamegon Bay between Ashland and Washburn. Thousands of ice luminaries and another couple thousand stars (if the sky is clear) light the way, with rest areas featuring giant bonfires at every kilometer.

For most of the event’s 25-year history, the race has culminated in Washburn with a giant chili feed and post-race party.

This year’s race, however, will look a little different. Instead of crossing the bay to Washburn, the course will cross the bay to “Dragon Island,” a small outcrop south of Washburn, then loop back to finish in Ashland.

As with most changes to tradition, this one wasn't without controversy, especially since the race got its start as a joint fundraiser for the Washburn Public Library (the "Book" in the name) and the Tri-County Medical Society.

The decision to change the route ultimately came down to what these decisions usually do these days: money.

The race, which attracts about 3,000 participants every year, is run entirely by volunteers. It’s a big undertaking that includes busing participants from their cars at the finish line to the starting line, monitoring and grooming a 10-kilometer course on a frozen Great Lake, and providing rest stops and emergency medical personnel along that course, among other things.

A race with that many people affects the cities that play host to it — both good and bad. And it’s the bad — public works services like plowing and cleanup, additional police and more to the tune of $4,181 in 2022, according to Washburn city officials — that led the city to request that race organizers pay for those extra costs.

The organizers pushed back, saying they pay for additional Bayfield County sheriff deputies, provide their own trained medical staff, and take care of plowing the finish line and park where the post-race party is held. They said they could not afford to pay Washburn the requested amount and might have to change the route if the city wouldn’t budge.

The public works department contended they didn't want anyone else plowing public land, especially since the park suffered damage during past races, they claimed. Race organizers questioned that as well, saying the department always inspected the park after the event and returned their security and damage deposits in full, and that they would have repaired or paid to repair any damage had they been told about it.

The back-and-forth went on for almost a year before the city council approved the race’s event permit in October, with the condition that the issue of plowing and who would do it (and/or pay for it) would be worked out later.

But race organizers decided to walk away from the argument altogether, withdrew their permit request and changed the route.

Route change helps event stay viable

The change wasn’t just because of the disagreement, Thoen said, although that did cause them to reevaluate all of the race’s costs, including how the route affected those costs. He said with just three core volunteer organizers, and a decline in other volunteers, the fiscal and manpower costs to put on a race with a different start and finish line were becoming unsustainable. He added that for several years a few key volunteers personally carried debt for the race.

"We've got this super cool, funky event that really is a fundraiser for the whole local area and all these groups and clubs. But it's a business, too, and we have to manage it as a business to make sure it can keep going. And it just wasn't feasible from both the volunteering and the financial aspect to keep going, at least for this year, city to city,” Thoen said.

By combining the start and finish line — cutting the need for everything from portable toilets to tents in half, plus eliminating the need to bus participants between the two — they will save $19,000, he said, noting that some of that money can then go to volunteer groups — which is what the race is all about.

The organizers refer to the process of doling out money to local groups as "work group payments.” Volunteer groups help with a certain aspect of the race, from staffing rest stations or picking up trash to making ice luminaries or chili. They then get a percentage of the race proceeds based on the task they performed. The event has given more than $280,000 to local groups over the past dozen years, Thoen said.

Many people, including members of the Washburn city council, asked why they not just raise their registration prices to help pay for rising costs, including paying the city. Thoen was adamant that that was not something they wanted to do.

“The community, the tri-county area we're in, isn't exactly bustling economically, and we're real protective of that,” he said. “If the intent is that anyone from around the local area can come out and do this funky event with their whole family ... Obviously having a couple of kids at $35, $40, $50 bucks a person — that isn't feasible for a lot of people.”

What’s more, Thoen said he’s heard from people — especially those with young kids — who are excited to not have to take a shuttle, eliminating the extra step of herding kids and their skis, snowshoes and other snow gear onto a bus.

“Change happens, this will be different but no buses, no rushing, no waiting, it’ll all be okay,” Elizabeth Helene commented on the Facebook post announcing the new route. “This is my absolute favorite 'race' of the season, and I do all the major marathons. BATB is the best!!!”

Others who have volunteered at the event noted they've seen firsthand how much goes into putting it on and were glad they could participate another year.

"The older I get, the harder change can be. I’m happy this event is continuing," Jon Flynn wrote. "Given the extra traffic Ashland business will see, Washburn will be an ideal destination for those wanting to gather with friends pre and post race. We have seen this course change for a variety of reasons over the years. I don’t doubt it may change again. I hope Washburn city government is looking at ways to support this event to include Washburn in future years. Being part of a post race cleanup crew, I have seen a glimpse of the logistical challenges. Many hands make light work. Getting more involved is likely the best way to understand the reasons behind this decision and to affect change. Looking forward to BATB23!"

Others said they understood why the change was necessary, but were still disappointed with the outcome.

“As I count up the tents and port-a-potties and buses and other duplicated rental costs, I do see the cost-saving quickly adding up to keep the event affordable and sustainable. Hate to be losing Washburn’s mid-winter party though,” Sharon Stewart wrote.

“I’m understanding of the reasoning, but we really need to figure something out for the future. This is incredibly sad for Washburn,” wrote Gabrielle Rose.

Others feared the change could hurt Washburn businesses, which already struggle in the slower winter months.

“I have thought about this post for a while and debated commenting. As a long time Book participant cracking the top 3 multiple times and a Washburn native, I’m not a fan of this. I’m sure there are reasons that are behind the scenes, but local Washburn businesses will hurt a bit from this. I feel for Washburn Hardware & Sport, South Shore Brewery and all of the other Washburn businesses,” Scott Johanik commented.

In an interview with the Ashland Daily Press in October, Washburn Chamber of Commerce Director Melissa Martinez echoed the sentiment. But because there are limited hotel rooms in Ashland, she was confident people would still travel to Washburn for lodging and then spend money while they’re there.

“If they are here because they are staying here, they are going to stop for breakfast at CoCo’s, they are going to stop for coffee at North Coast on the way in,” she said. “It’s going to pinch. I don’t think it’s going to pinch quite as hard as people think or are assuming.”

Some regular participants were also disappointed with the route change.

“I am very sorry to have read about this decision,” Eric Iversen commented on the Facebook post, noting he and a group of friends have participated in nearly every race since its inception. “Although weather and conditions have forced the course trail to be altered there was always a connection between two communities. Ashland and Washburn. Without including Washburn it truly won't be a Book Across The Bay.”

“Admittedly, the new route does make logistics easier. But I am sad Washburn has been cut out. There is much to be said for tradition, especially when it served to unify two important towns in our area and benefitted them both,” Tonia Simeone wrote. “With the history of the Book starting in Washburn back at its inception, it feels wrong for Washburn to be cut out. Some of the romance is lost for me with this change.”

It wasn’t an easy decision for race organizers, either. Thoen, who now lives in Duluth, grew up in Washburn and along with other organizers who live there, cares about the city and its success.

“I grew up in Washburn, I have a vested interest in that city thriving. Other Book organizers are from Washburn, have children who attended Washburn, and care just as deeply about its businesses, clubs, teams and so on who benefit. We as leaders also love finishing in another city. That’s why we invested personally in making sure for the last 25 years that could happen. For many reasons it continues to be more challenging each year,” Thoen wrote on Facebook.

“As organizers, we like the point-to-point a lot, but we like the event more and want to keep it going,” he told the Journal Sentinel.

Participants come from all over for 'reunion'-like event

Thoen said their registration is on pace with past years, with the final number of participants usually landing around 3,000. Locals make up a large percentage of that, but weather often determines how many participate, with some making a game-day decision. People do travel for the one-of-a-kind event, too — one year the race played host to participants from 39 states and four countries. Thirteen states are represented so far this year.

Thoen said that aspect of people coming from all over to participate gives it the feeling of a kind of reunion, which is his favorite part of the race.

“I love everything about it, but it's truly kind of become a reunion,” he said, adding that he has some close friends, including one from Alaska, who travel back every year to help volunteer, along with some participants who know him by name despite only seeing him once a year. "It's such a cool network of people and certainly all walks of life — there's teachers and business leaders and fortune 500 CEOs hanging out, and it's just anyone you can imagine that wants to do this funky little event comes back."

And while putting it on during the day would make it a lot easier, safer and cheaper, it would also then draw only about half the participants.

“If you take away the cool and unique and fun factor, then it's just another run-of-the-mill ski race and quite frankly, then it would be a ski race on a really flat, cold trail,” Thoen said.

But that flat trail is what makes the event accessible for people of all ages and skiing or snowshoeing ability. Thoen said they’ve had participants as young as 4 or 5 and as old as 90.

“Of course, you gotta have the right gear and dress for it, but almost anybody can do this,” he said.

And for those who might be nervous about how safe it is to trek across a frozen lake, organizers are constantly measuring ice thickness to make sure it is safe. Thoen said they’ve consulted the Army Corps of Engineers in the past for some calculations on ice density and weight distribution, and ultimately they double the DNR recommendation for ice thickness for a truck (the Minnesota DNR recommends 13 to 17 inches).

He said he and Andy Matthews, BATB’s president, will go out on snowmobiles and drill holes throughout the bay to measure the thickness. They also know where pressure ridges typically form, based on historical data, and avoid those when plotting a course.

Because Chequamegon Bay is somewhat sheltered from the brutal northwest winds that whip across the lake, thick ice forms a lot more easily than it does on the other side of the Bayfield peninsula where the world famous Apostle Islands ice caves are. Before the 2019 race, ice in the bay measured from 25 inches to more than 32 inches at various points along the course, with the snow on top measuring 8 to 18 inches.

Conditions make a big difference for the success of the race, which in turn affects how long the volunteers can continue putting it on.

But with this year’s change, the race will go on at least another year, drawing people from all walks of life for an only-in-Wisconsin event that feels like a homecoming for Thoen.

“We try to keep that theme through the whole event, of just a good time and coming out with neighbors and friends and family. Certainly, we get people traveling from all over the country and world sometimes, but once you get there, it's just a good time. It feels like a reunion with some folks you haven't seen in a while and you happen to be trekking across the world’s largest lake in the middle of a night with no lights,” he said.

More information

Book Across the Bay is scheduled for Feb. 18, with the first wave kicking off at 6 p.m. The 10- to 12-kilometer course starts and ends in Ashland and is groomed for classic and skate skiing. Snowshoeing is also permitted. Walking is typically allowed as well, depending on conditions.

Registration is $30 (plus a $2.80 fee online) and is available online, by mail or in person from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. the day of the race. The fee includes a chipped bib and the post-race chili feed and party at Kreher Park in Ashland.

For more information and to register, see batb.org.

Contact Chelsey Lewis at clewis@journalsentinel.com. Follow her on Twitter at @chelseylew and @TravelMJS and Facebook at Journal Sentinel Travel.

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This article originally appeared on Milwaukee Journal Sentinel: Book Across the Bay to feature new route across Lake Superior in 2023