Bread & Butter Diner opens in at the site of the former Chefee’s 1921 Diner in Boylston.

read and Butter Diner (formerly 1921 Diner) owner and executive chef Chris Bairos and his sister, co-owner Zelia Frias, in the newly reopened diner.
read and Butter Diner (formerly 1921 Diner) owner and executive chef Chris Bairos and his sister, co-owner Zelia Frias, in the newly reopened diner.

Christopher Bairos is a chef who has enjoyed a fine dining career, led the kitchen line at casual-style restaurants, partnered with a chef/friend on a food truck and shared center stage at food competitions. Earlier this year, Bairos of Hudson, with his sister Zelia Frias, leased the former Chefee’s 1921 Diner in Boylston.

The newly-renovated Bread & Butter Diner, 59 Shrewsbury St., Boylston, opened last month for breakfast and lunch. It’s a first for Bairos.

The executive chef previously worked on Martha’s Vineyard before he considered setting up shop. “Honestly, I wasn’t quite sure what kind of business I wanted,” said Bairos. “I wasn’t seriously looking, but the Boylston location popped up at a perfect time in my life. When we rode by the diner and saw that it was available, we stopped and looked into the windows. Then we called the owner.”

In a recent Facebook post, Bairos sent a thank you message to Chefee’s 1921 for their years of food service, adding, “We hope we can fill their shoes.”

Bairos said his diner-style menu is different, with an upscale feel and flair. “Mostly American cuisine, served in a casual and friendly atmosphere,” he said.

Hash browns and toast at the Bread and Butter Diner.
Hash browns and toast at the Bread and Butter Diner.

Bairos works the diner’s scratch kitchen, while his sister runs the front of the house. The business is open Tuesday through Friday for breakfast, 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; lunch, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. After Labor Day, the owners plan to expand their operation to Tuesday through Sunday. “We also want to add weekend dinner hours down the road,” said Bairos. “We’re taking things slow at first.”

Bread & Butter Diner seats 13 at the counter; 25 in a separate room that offers added convenience, said Bairos. Currently, the business is cash only, with no ATM on premise. Plenty of parking in front of business. Telephone (774) 614-1014 for takeout and reserving small events, such as showers, birthday parties, etc. Connect on Facebook for menu specials, updates, etc.

The breakfast menu has a variety of Plates and Bowls; Omelettes; Sandwiches & Burritos; Egg Benedicts; Sweet Stuff (Pancakes, French toast, waffles); Breakfast of Champions (Post-Game Meal, Chicken & Waffles, Big Boy’s Breakfast, 3 eggs, 3 pancakes, 3 slices of bacon, 3 slices of toast and home fries. Also, sides that include corned beef hash and Portuguese muffin. A Portuguese eggs Benedict includes the spicy pork sausage Chourico. Note: Bairos cures meats on premise.

Lunch specials: Honey Crisp Chicken Sandwiches (clubs, steak de Casa, hamburger);  Bifana, a pan- fried pork cutlet topped with a fried egg, served with Portuguese gravy; Hot Dog Plate; Wraps; Burgers; Salads, Soups; Desserts, featuring a pie of the week. Bottomless coffee served throughout the day.

At Bread and Butter Diner cook Chris "Bubba" Sparks makes pancake batter in the kitchen.
At Bread and Butter Diner cook Chris "Bubba" Sparks makes pancake batter in the kitchen.

Bairos grew up in Hudson, raised in a traditional Portuguese family. He said he learned early on the importance of fresh food and he incorporates Portuguese elements in some of his cooking at the diner. He graduated from New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vermont.

“Family is very important, and I wouldn’t have been able to start a business without my family’s encouragement and support,” said Bairos.  “They helped me get here.”

The chef joked about his mother coming out of retirement to help wash dishes, clean and run errands at the diner. “She’s a great mom,’ said Bairos. “She has given me guidance and support my entire life, and I love spending time with her.”

a fruit parfait is up at Bread and Butter Diner.
a fruit parfait is up at Bread and Butter Diner.

Bairos, who started out as a dishwasher at a Marlboro chicken farm, has cooked at pop-up restaurants all over New England and years ago judged a national competition for student chefs sponsored by the National Restaurant Association. His mentors during his career, “Steve Johnson, a Boston chef; Matt Landry, chef/owner of the former Chloe Bistro in Hudson; local executive chef Peter Eco.” Bairos in free time has worked private events alongside local chef Michael Arrastia, former owner of Hangover Pub in Worcester, and he’s worked shifts at Horseshoe Pub & Restaurant in Hudson.

“The pandemic changed the restaurant industry, and I believe some changes are here to stay,” said Bairos. Takeout and deliveries are increasingly popular, he said. As for the American diner, it’s still about comfort food and culture, said Bairos.

The 1921 Diner: Owners put Chefee’s 1921 Diner up for sale on Facebook in November 2022, advertising it as a car built by The Worcester Lunch Car Company. The company was one of the country’s leading diner manufacturers, producing 651 diners from 1906 to 1961. The historic 1921 dining car has had an interesting food journey.

It’s ready for its next life as Bread & Butter Diner.

High Praise for Beechwood Hotel

News from the Beechwood Hotel in Worcester is Tripadvisor has chosen it as “Worcester’s Exclusive 2023 Travelers’ Choice Award Winner.”

The hotel’s management recently extended “gratitude to all our guests for taking time to share their outstanding reviews on Tripadvisor. “

For diners, the Beechwood’s Sonoma Restaurant is open daily for breakfast. Visit www.beechwoodhotel.com for dinner hours. The restaurant is closed for lunch.

Farm-to-table's popularity is on the rise

Food for thought: The trend of farm-to-table dining has been on the rise for several years.

Pepper’s Artful Events in Northborough and Cordelia’s Farm in Berlin together scheduled 2023 Farm to Table Dinners that sold out for Aug. 9 and Aug. 17, with waiting lists.

Locally sourced food continues to grow, whether showcased at special farm events or local farm-to-table restaurants.

Celebrate the season!

If you have a tidbit for the column, call (508) 868-5282. Send email to bhoulefood@gmail.com

This article originally appeared on Telegram & Gazette: Table Hoppin': Bread & Butter Diner opens in Boylston