The Burberry Trench Is an Icon—and Rightfully So
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The trench coat is so deeply embedded in the way we think about menswear that it’s almost strange to think of it having a (mostly) definable origin point. But it does. And that was way back in World War I, when upper-crusty British officers turned to the already-venerable outdoor outfitter Burberry to protect them from the elements in a new creation. Double-breasted, built for the realities of war but still designed to cut a clean line, it quickly made the transition from military garb to civilian essential, adopted first by the British establishment and soon after fixed in the firmament of the Golden Age of Hollywood. Looking to understand just how iconic this style is? Bogart wore a Burberry trench in the promo photos for Casablanca. Here’s looking at you.
Nowadays, you can get a trench from all kinds of makers and at pretty much any price from dirt cheap to astoundingly expensive. But there’s one—an investment, for sure, but far from the ultra-luxury prices you can find with a quick online search—that deserves the consideration of anyone who cares about timeless style, a good story, and just plain looking great. It’s Burberry’s long Kensington trench. Cut from soft-but-sturdy cotton gabardine, expertly fitted, and made in England, it’s a testament to why the OG maker of the style still owns it to this day. Don’t think you’re a trench coat guy? I didn’t either. Then I slipped the Kensington over my shoulders and I understood. Dressing in a costume is foolhardy, but tapping into the social and cultural history of a garment like the trench—allowing it to transform you, just a little—is something else entirely. It’s channeling the best of the past, all those turned-out guys and silver-screen stars from way back when, and putting your own, contemporary spin on things. It’s indulging in an icon, and understanding exactly why it became one in the first place.
First, a little history
As with any garment that dates back more than a century, there’s some muddiness when it comes to the history of the trench coat. That’s fitting, considering it earned its name from the foul, muddy trenches of World War I, where it made its debut as officers’ garb. What is clear, though, is that Burberry was indispensable in crafting the iconic style. That’s owing in large part to Thomas Burberry and his invention of a proto performance fabric called gabardine, which was patented in 1888 and managed to be lightweight, water resistant, and breathable all at the same time. Arctic explorers adopted it. Aviators and all kinds of other adventurers did, too. The military applications were obvious, so it wasn’t long before Burberry was adopting an overcoat called the “Tielocken” for World War I by adding elements like D-rings to carry necessities like canteens and map cases, epaulets to display rank, and storm flaps to slough off water while providing ventilation. The trench coat was born. And one hundred-plus years later, the design has proven so enduring that the essential elements all remain.
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The fit is perfectly proportioned
History is great and all, but we’re not talking about putting on a costume here. We’re talking about getting dressed for the realities of 2023—and one of those realities is that fits are all over the place. You’ll find stranglingly slim stuff hung up on a rack right next to ostentatiously oversized offerings. What you’ll find fewer of, though, are garments that attain a genuine sense of balance. Burberry’s Kensington trench coat does just that, pairing the past-the-knee length of a classic trench with slim arms and a torso that manages to feel tailored but not too tight (though it is worth noting that if you’re used to an easier fit, you may want to size up). The overall effect isn’t that dissimilar to that of the OG trenches from way back in the day: Sharp, utilitarian, and somehow just as well suited to a nice evening out—trenches were quickly adopted by the upper classes as respectable civilian attire in the years following the war—as a foray into unpleasant conditions. In other words, whether you’re suiting up for a date or tossing your trench on over sweats for a coffee run, it’s going to make you look about a thousand times more put-together than you were previously.
Shop Now $2,490, burberry.com
About that fabric—and functionality
The original Burberry gabardine trench coats were likely worsted wool, proofed with lanolin before weaving into a twill so tight that it was nearly impenetrable by rain. That’s great if you’re holed up for days on end while exposed to the elements, but overkill for most folks who just need a coat that can shield them from the elements while still looking great. The modern iteration of the Burberry trench comes in cotton. It’s still tightly woven, still unfriendly to wind and water—Burberry calls it “shower-resistant”—but also perfectly comfortable to wear on dry, sunny days. In fact, it feels so nice, with a soft hand and a crispness that never verges into unpleasant crunchiness, that you likely won’t find yourself thinking of your trench coat as a raincoat but rather your go-to topper. Button it all the way up, secure the hook-and-eye closure at the neck, and flip up the collar to display the unmistakable Burberry check on bad days. Or leave it hanging open, unfussy and unbelievably stylish, on good ones. And then repeat as necessary for years to come—because if ever there were a piece of outerwear you can be sure will stand the test of time, it’s this one.
Shop Now $2,490, burberry.com
Photography by Philip Friedman. Prop styling by John Olson for Halley Resources.
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