Chefs share their top tips for cooking Christmas dinner, from turkey to the trimmings
Every year, one dreams of a stress-free Christmas dinner. Yet such a scenario (glass of wine in hand, singing along merrily to carols while a perky turkey bronzes in the oven), often couldn't be further from the truth.
Luckily, the professionals know how to turn out perfect brined and burnished birds, and roast potatoes that are crisp outside and fluffy within. Those chefs whose restaurants can stay open this Christmas are gearing up for the festive season, but even those who remain closed have shared their tips below.
So if you can't get out to support your local restaurant on Christmas Day, take inspiration from them at home and follow their advice for great gravy and even better Brussels sprouts.
Top turkey tips
James Cochran, chef patron of Restaurant 12:51 in London believes brining is key. "Brining should be a given when it comes to any poultry. Submerge a 10kg bird in 10 litres of water and 1kg of salt. Add the peel of a few oranges, cinnamon sticks, peppercorns, juniper berries, bay leaves and leave in the fridge overnight. The proteins are broken down in the bird via osmosis and the salt tenderises the meat. The next day, make sure you drain and pat dry as much as possible to ensure a crispy bird and juicy cuts.”
To avoid bland meat, try a rub for the turkey. “As well as brining, I prepare a butter and spice mixture (it can be any spice you like) to rub over it before cooking," says Kerth Gumbs, executive chef at Ormer Mayfair and BBC Two’s Great British Menu 2020 finalist. "Keep the butter cold then it can be rolled with a rolling pin. Run your fingers under the skin of the turkey breast to create a gap, and spread the butter mix directly onto the flesh. It helps the meat stay moist, tender and fragrant.”
Marwa Alkhalaf, chef patron of Nutshell in London, gives the bird “a bit of a glow” by infusing butter with strands of saffron, and rubbing this under the skin. “Try adding a couple of prunes to your baking tray under the turkey and finish with pomegranate molasses," he says. "The sweet and sour flavour really works."
For something a little different, cook your turkey on the barbecue. Genevieve Taylor's smoked turkey with maple coffee mop sauce benefits from the basting liquid being liberally “mopped” over the meat as it cooks. The coffee "adds a subtle depth of flavour and a glorious colour."
Read more: Christmas dinner tips and recipes to prepare now
Gravy and sauces
For a flavoursome gravy, Jack Stein, chef director of The Rick Stein Group, prepares the mix a day in advance – and adds two secret ingredients. “Cook down some onions, garlic and thyme with a good glug of red wine. Once at boiling point, reduce by around half and add the stock. Simmer for half an hour, then add a tablespoon of Marmite and soy sauce – a secret umami hit – and a splash of vinegar to taste. On the day, add the juices from the roasted meat at the end.”
To make bread sauce extra luxurious, try this tip from Tom Aikens, chef patron of Muse in London. “Replace the standard white loaf with brioche crumbs. It will help to enrich the sauce, and I finish mine with a dash of double cream.”
Instead of cranberry sauce, try pickled cranberries for a brighter side, à la Chris Galvin, chef patron of the Galvin Restaurant Group. "Bring the following the boil: 50ml white wine vinegar, one dessertspoon of honey, two tablespoons of white wine, one tablespoon of Madeira, half a clove of crushed garlic, a twist of white peppercorns, the zest and juice of one orange, plus some thyme. Once bubbling, add 50g fresh cranberries then take off the heat, season to taste and leave to steep for 24 hours.”
Super sides
Ben Tish, culinary director of The Stafford Collection, enlists the freezer for perfect roast potatoes. “Cook the potatoes the day before in boiling salted water for 10 minutes or until fully cooked. Let them dry in the fridge, then put them in the freezer. Next day, roast the potatoes in hot fat (beef or goose) and salt at 180C/160C fan/Gas 4 for around 40 minutes for super crispy and fluffy potatoes.”
Tom Westerland, head chef at Crockers Henley, says it' all down to choosing the right potato – and doing the seven minute shuffle. "Maris Piper and King Edwards have a lower sugar content so they crisp up without burning. I peel and cut them into a shape that has as many edges as possible; that's the trick to maximising your crispy edges! Cover with cold water and a good handful of salt, bring to the boil, then rapidly boil for seven minutes. Drain and ruffle in the colander with some rock salt. Preheat an oven tray with beef fat at 200C/180C fan/Gas 6 and add the potatoes. Roast until golden and crispy."
Carrots are a highlight for Francesco Mazzei, chef patron of Sartoria, Fiume, and Radici in London. “I cook them with the turkey at the start to absorb all of the gorgeous juices from the meat. Half-way through, add toasted caraway seeds and a spoon of honey to get the carrots lovely and caramelised. Finish with a scattering of parsley.”
To boost your Brussels, roast them, advises Tom Aikens. “It brings out the best out of their earthy flavour. I blanch them in boiling salted water for 30 seconds, then roast whole in a very hot oven (210C/190C fan/Gas 7) with goose or duck fat. Shake the tray every five minutes. A few minutes before they look done, drizzle with honey to caramelise, and top with sliced chestnuts.”
An untraditional main…
“For something a little different, why not opt for duck instead of turkey?” says Michael Carr, head chef at Fenchurch Restaurant in The Sky Garden. “Remove the legs first and roasting them in a baking tray with some juniper and chopped carrots. Once the legs are almost cooked, lay the duck breast or crown on top so they can roast together; this way you won’t dry out the breast. Serve with red cabbage, purple sprouting broccoli, Brussels sprouts fried off with bacon, roast potatoes, and plenty of cranberry jelly – delicious!”
Or follow the lead of Cesar Garcia, group head chef of Iberica. “In Spain, it’s common to have a whole baked fish with a dressed green salad and baby potatoes on Christmas Day. I like to finish the fish with a quick sauce made from chopped garlic, chilli, a splash of sherry, vinegar, and some oil."
All about the Christmas ham...
Ben Tish cooks gammon before the big day, and “for a deep porky flavour, I like to use the cooking liquor from the joint of gammon as a brine for the turkey," he explains. "The turkey meat becomes moist and flavoursome. It won’t last long once on the table!”
For a fail-safe guide to the perfect Christmas ham, check out Telegraph columnist Xanthe Clay’s guide here, which covers everything from broths and glazes (think ginger beer, red wine and fennel, and festive perry), to what to do with leftovers.
Boxing Day leftovers
“You can't beat a cold turkey sandwich made with Branston pickle, lettuce, extra cold cranberry sauce and a little mayonnaise,” says Tom Aikens. “But leftovers can be elevated to new heights, too. Use any leftover meat in a pie. Start by making a béchamel using butter, flour and full-fat milk, add some chopped mushrooms and leek, and a dash of cream with grainy mustard and parsley. Cut the white and dark meat into smallish pieces and tip into the mixture. Pop into a pie dish, cover with defrosted puff pastry, brush with egg yolk, and bake at 200C/180C fan/Gas 6 for 20 minutes.”
Telegraph food writer Diana Henry puts leftover ham to good use in her ham and cheese French toast. "Beat four large eggs with 250ml milk in a shallow dish. Spread eight slices of white bread with Dijon mustard, then sprinkle some grated cheddar or gruyère cheese on four of them. Top with thin slices of ham, more cheese, and top with the rest of the bread. Soak each sandwich in the beaten egg for four minutes, then turn over and soak the other side. Heat unsalted butter in a large frying pan and cook the sandwiches until golden brown (about three minutes on each side), then cover the pan and cook until the cheese has melted."
And to drink...
Dave Wall, head chef at The Unruly Pig in Suffolk, starts Christmas Day with a cocktail. “The Queen Mother would start at noon with a cocktail (one part gin and two parts Dubonnet), topped off with a slice of orange. The official name is a ‘Zaza’ or a Dubonnet cocktail. So what’s good enough for royalty is surely good enough for us!"
