Cherry Cricket a burger landmark in Denver | Dining review
Feb. 23—The Cherry Cricket in Denver's upscale Cherry Creek district prides itself on being the neighborhood renegade as a popular bar flipping big juicy hamburgers without pretense.
Since opening its doors almost 78 years ago, little about the Cricket's brick façade, large neon sign and prime corner location has changed. This contributes to the restaurant's popularity, where the choice of brews and burgers is extensive. Couples, families (young and old) and friends make it a destination. It can accommodate a lot of people with tables packed close together, several dining areas, a (temporarily) enclosed patio and outdoor seating areas that don't see much use this time of year.
One page of the menu is devoted to burgers and sandwiches, with the former occupying most of the space. Besides beef, there are veggie, turkey, bison and Impossible options. Not to be missed, though, is the Cricket Burger 1/2 pound ($11.50) or the Little Cricket 1/4 pound ($9.50). These are cooked to order and served on a toasted brioche bun with lettuce, tomato and pickles on the side .
Start with the Cricket, then it's time to take advantage of the dozens of topping possibilities. Many, like pineapple, sauerkraut or cheddar jalapeno Cheetos, for example, are surprising. Most make sense, like a variety of cheeses, pico de gallo or guacamole — and much more. Upcharges range from $1 to $5.
My Cricket Burger was almost ordinary with pimento cheese ($2 upcharge) and grilled onions ($1) — except the soft, sharp cheese was house-made with colorful pieces of diced red chile pepper (pimento). The grilled red onions, while not sweet, married well with the cheese. The meat was cooked to a perfect medium and the slightly sweet, rich thick brioche bun further elevates this all-American classic.
The 720 Jammin' Poblano Burger ($16.50) is a popular choice. It's hard to know if this is due to its status as the 2021 People Choice first-place winner in Denver's Burger Battle or if Cricket regulars have long been in the know. It starts with the house patty, some of that impressive pimento cheese, pork belly, panko-crusted poblano pepper and cherry pepper raspberry sauce. It's a lively mess with the crispy pepper blending well with the sweet condiment.
The pulled pork barbecue sandwich ($12.50) lacked the wow factor of the burgers. The ancho apricot sauce was barely detectable on the tender shredded pork. The milky coleslaw had the right amount of sweetness.
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Sides are extra, ranging from chips ($4) to mac and cheese ($6). French fries, onion rings or "frings" (a combination of the two) were our choices. The fries are overseasoned, but the brittle coating encasing the sweet onions made these a favorite.
There's nothing like a good milkshake ($6.50) to go with a burger and Cricket's velvety strawberry treat hit the spot. It's light, not overly rich, with the spotlight on the fruit. The large dollop of whipped cream provided a special touch.
The place was packed and, even though we were in a smaller dining area, very loud. Prices might seem high for hamburgers, but they're above average. Plus, the Cricket's history adds to the dining experience.
Cherry Cricket
Popular spot for burgers and brews.
Location: 2641 E. Second Ave., Denver
Contact: 1-303-322-7666; cherrycricket.com
Prices: $8 to $16
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily
Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Outdoor dining.
Favorite dishes: Cricket Burger and 720 Jammin' Poblano Burger.
Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.
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