Chinatown, the next downtown destination. Fresno pouring millions into historic neighborhood

It may be hard to imagine Fresno’s Chinatown as a bustling center with new apartments, pristine sidewalks, shade trees and all within walking distance of the first high speed rail station in the United States.

But the seemingly impossible may be closer than ever to happening now, thanks to an influx of millions in state dollars aimed at upgrading aging infrastructure and supporting small business.

In May, Gov. Gavin Newsom committed $250 million for downtown Fresno, $20 million of that will pay for street improvements, sidewalks, curbs and gutters in Chinatown and downtown Fresno.

Chinatown is also getting a share of a $66.5 million grant from the state’s Transformative Climate Communities Collaborative. The money is aimed at providing significant environmental and economic benefits in downtown, Chinatown and southwest Fresno.

“Honestly, I don’t think we have ever seen this type of infusion of money into Chinatown,” said Morgan Doizaki, owner of Central Fish Company, one of Chinatown’s landmark businesses. “We have an opportunity to create some real change in Chinatown.”

Culinary district with tourism, tunnels, housing

Fresno Mayor Jerry Dyer agrees and has spoken enthusiastically about wanting Chinatown to become a destination place. The mayor estimates that at least $100 million will be spent over the next several years in the area.

He believes the area can leverage its multicultural history to showcase what makes it unique, from its mysterious maze of tunnels to the variety of hugely popular restaurants.

“I want Chinatown to be the international culinary district ... where people come from not just all over Fresno and the Valley, but anyone who could get on the (high speed rail) train would come to the culinary district,” the mayor said in an interview.

Dyer supports making Chinatown’s century-old tunnel system a tourist attraction and creating a museum to tell the stories of the different ethnic groups that helped build Chinatown and downtown Fresno.

Housing is also critical to reviving the sleepy business district.

The city plans to use part of a separate $43.7 million grant from the California Department of Housing and Community Development, also for downtown, to construct 71 housing units by refurbishing the Bow On Tong Association building on China Alley between Kern and Tulare streets in Chinatown.

Another 85 units will be added by refurbishing the Peacock Building on F Street between Kern and Tulare streets in Chinatown.

Already, funds from the Transformative Climate Communities program have been used to build a four-story, 57-unit affordable infill housing community. The project also includes 4,700 square feet of commercial space.

Jan Minami, project director of the Chinatown Fresno Foundation, said business owners have remained optimistic about Chinatown’s future, despite the closure of some of the streets into the area due to high speed rail construction.

Kern Street, between H and G streets, has been permanently closed. Construction continues on the underpasses on Tulare and Ventura streets. Once those open next spring or summer, work will begin on extending the underpass on Fresno Street.

Improvements planned in Chinatown

Other improvement projects in the works include:

Street lighting will get a boost with the installation of 14 LED streetlights on F Street from Fresno to Ventura streets.

Twenty-six shade trees to protect against Fresno’s triple-digit summers will be planted on F Street from Mariposa to Fresno streets. The specially selected trees include Chinese Pistache, Golden Rain and Oklahoma Redbud, a drought tolerant tree with magenta flowers, similar to a blossoming cherry tree, said Minami.

Cracked and broken sidewalks will also be repaired on F Street from Ventura to Fresno streets.

China Alley, between Kern and Inyo, will also get a face-lift in the form of a permeable surface. The new environmentally friendly surface allows rain water to flow through it, instead of pooling at the top.

Minami thanked the community leaders and business owners who came together to provide their input on how the state money should be spent.

June Stanfield, owner and operator of Golden Cuts Barber Shop on E Street, said it was critical to have a “seat at the table” when it came to discussing the future of Chinatown.

That hasn’t always been the case, she said.

“We fought to have an entrance into Chinatown from the high speed rail platform,” she said. “We don’t want people to get off that train and only go one direction, to downtown. We want people to say, ‘Hey, let me go see what they have over here.’”

Chinatown is like no other business district in the city. A majority of the businesses are homegrown with very few franchises, if any.

“There is a uniqueness here that you won’t find at River Park of Fashion Fair,” Stanfield said.

’It’s now 2023 and ignoring Chinatown can’t happen anymore’

Founded in the 1870s by Chinese workers, the historic area has long served as the landing spot for immigrants, including the Japanese, Mexican, Armenian, Portuguese, Basque and others.

Taking up 18 blocks between the railroad tracks, Highway 99, Fresno Street and Ventura Street, Chinatown was once an enclave of hotels, restaurants, theaters and shops.

Hidden underneath its streets are a web of tunnels that were used decades ago for storage as well as illicit activities from gambling to prostitution.

Kathy Omachi, a longtime Chinatown advocate, estimates that more than 2,000 people have toured the tunnels over the years.

Omachi said some of the tunnels have been filled in due to the construction of the baseball stadium more than 20 years ago.

“It’s a natural tourist attraction,” Omachi said. “But also one that needs protection.”

These days Chinatown is a hodgepodge of vacant lots, shuttered buildings and those down on their luck.

But tucked in amid the blight are some of the city’s most popular eateries, including La Elegante, Chef Paul’s Cafe, and the Central Fish Company restaurant.

It is also home to Kogetsu-Do, a Japanese dessert shop on F Street that is 108 years old, and the recently opened vintage store, Yoshi World on Kern Street.

Rio Harvell Toi, owner of Yoshi World, is thankful Chinatown is getting the attention it deserves, after years of neglect.

“As a business owner I would love to see improvements to the roads and sidewalks and even have flowers planted back in the flower beds,” she said. “There is a lot that can be done while still maintaining the rich history of Chinatown.”

As one of the city’s premium suppliers of fish, Doizaki at Central Fish isn’t lacking for customers. His busy restaurant is packed during the lunch hour and his fish department provides fish to about 100 restaurants. But he still worries what will happen to Chinatown, once the excitement begins to die down.

“I like the mayor’s passion for Chinatown and with all this money pouring in how can you not get excited,” Doizaki said. “But there are still issues of equality and equity. It’s now 2023 and ignoring Chinatown can’t happen anymore. It’s our time. “