Colorado Springs' Trainwreck not on the right track | Dining review
Mar. 9—Trainwreck isn't completely off the rails, but there were a few missed signals coming from the kitchen.
More sports bar than restaurant, Trainwreck nonetheless offers a substantial dining menu. Some foods work well, others not so much. Despite a few inquiries by the manager checking on our meal, she wasn't paying attention. Nor did she return as promised to answer questions about the fish and chips.
We appreciated Antonia V., our server. While debating whether to order the Trainwreck Twinkies ($16), she assured they were not as "powerful" as they sound. She was right, as we discovered when we ordered the Buzzed Bites ($19), a combination of several appetizers, including those "Twinkies," better described as huge fusion egg rolls. Along with the shrimp and jalapeno poppers encased in fried wonton wrappers, the starters feature pretzel bites with beer cheese, house-made chips with onion dip and four chicken wings with ranch and blue cheese.
My favorites were the chips and dip. Thin, crispy and sturdy, the chips were ideal for scooping up the creamy, oniony dip. I tried two pretzel bites, and both were raw inside. The manager said these were her favorite, but walked away before I could point out the problem with mine.
Some were fully cooked and enjoyed by my dining companions. The beer cheese was thick and tangy.
Wings are available in a choice of three flavors: buffalo, garlic Parmesan and mango habanero.
The garlic Parmesan is a new addition to the menu. We gave them a try and were not disappointed. They, and the chips, were the only apps not left on the plates.
The chicken and waffle ($16) is listed under the For the Table section, aka appetizers, but it appealed to me as an entree. The deep-fried chicken thigh wore an armor of crunchy fried batter accompanied by two halves of a round waffle. Everything was heavily dusted with Parmesan cheese and sprinkled with chopped chives. The menu indicated porcini cream, but it was undetectable due to the overabundance of sage in the waffles. The herb's distinctive woodsy flavor overwhelmed the plate.
A more successful dish was the BBQ Bacon Burger ($17). With plenty of bacon, the juicy patty topped with white cheddar and grilled onions was massive. Its height was augmented by a thick onion ring, which kept the burger from being exceptional. The coating was too dense and too hard to bite.
A similar, thick, nearly impenetrable beer-batter coating was used on the fish and chips ($18). We couldn't decide if the two pieces were shaped like chimichangas or chicken cordon bleu. While the splotchy beige (not golden brown) exterior was crusty, the batter closest to the fish was uncooked. The fish, however, was flakey and well-seasoned.
The fish and burger were served with house fries. Since they're thinly cut, we expected crispiness. Some were and some were not. The impression was that they'd been sitting around awhile.
I imagine Trainwreck will be a fun place for outdoor games in warmer weather, but not a place I'll revisit for the food. Its extensive bar menu is impressive, though.
Trainwreck
Sports bar fare
Location: 812 S. Sierra Madre St.
Contact: 7-719-266-2090; trainwreckco.com
Prices: $9 to $26
Hours: 4 to 10 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday; 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Friday; 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Saturday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday (closed Monday & Tuesday)
Details: Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Credit cards. Outdoor seating and games.
Favorite dishes: House-made chips and garlic Parmesan wings
Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.
