Come on Barbie — to Chicago! Malibu pop-up launches from Saved by the Max creator
After spending six hours handing out merch at the new Malibu Barbie Cafe pop-up in the West Loop, 18-year-old Keni Adekeye stood among the sea of hot-pink clad fans, wrapping up her first shift.
A decade ago in Nigeria, a young Adekeye burned through Barbie movies at a rapid pace as the daughter of a DVD seller. As a kid, she had no idea how far the character’s reach extended — only that she loved her adventures and can-do attitude.
Now, on a warm June evening, she stood in the midst of a Barbie Dream House come to life.
“This place does not feel real,” Adekeye said. “I’m coming off the Red Line — outside, everyone’s tired, working. As soon as I come in, they’re like ‘Hi, Barbie.’ Say what you want to say about all this; it’s a confidence booster.”
That’s the global appeal of this singular, iconic doll, and it was on full display at the pop-up cafe, where the beachside cuisine is endless, the ’70s never ended and the color pink reigns supreme.
The cafe and bar — designed by Derek Berry of Saved by the Max fame — opened its doors June 5 and will run through Sept. 15, with director Greta Gerwig’s highly anticipated “Barbie” movie launching right in the middle with a July 21 premiere. At the heavily Instagrammable Mattel-backed pop-up, attendees lived out their brightest Barbie dreams, complete with a life-size doll box, a ’70s-style rotary phone, a larger-than-life stereo and a fan favorite outdoor roller rink.
Throughout the evening, one word seemed to encompass each partygoer’s experience: nostalgia.
Chicago model Maryam Jana described the pop-up cafe as a “full-circle” moment.
“I never thought in my adult life that I’d still be playing with Barbies,” she said. And yet, among a room full of people dressed head-to-toe in pink, it appeared adults were even more excited than kids to lean into the Barbie fantasy.
“As you walk around and you talk to people, everyone has their own Barbie story. We see groups of women coming and hanging out, we see moms with kids, we see grandparents, so it truly is a multigenerational experience,” said Julie Freeland, senior director for location-based entertainment at Mattel.
The cafe’s food is designed to emulate a coastal excursion, with light, whimsical bites crafted by “Master Chef” semifinalist Becky Brown. One of Brown’s personal favorites is the Beach Burger, a double smash burger topped with a secret sauce, grilled onions and a brioche bun.
Another house favorite is the West Coast Wedge Salad, livened up with herb-forward green goddess dressing, a squeeze of citrus, garlic butter breadcrumbs and bacon. Brown said both dishes were a nod to the approachable and retro-inspired nature of Barbie’s identity.
Kids can look forward to the confetti pancakes topped with sprinkles, whipped cream and edible pink glitter, Brown said. Meanwhile, grown-ups should keep an eye out for the wide-ranging selection of cocktails (particularly the pink-hued tipples, of course).
For some, the life-size Barbie celebration meant more than playing dress up and reengaging in childhood whimsy. “Ru Paul’s Drag Race” alum Kahmora Hall made an appearance Monday wearing an eye-catching feathery pink outfit and Barbie blonde hair.
Looking out over the crowd, Hall noted the diverse group and how safe she felt attending the event in drag, particularly in the context of “recent anti-gay rhetoric,” she said. Conservative lawmakers in Florida and other states have pushed for a slew anti-LGBTQ laws in recent months, including restrictions to drag shows, and businesses hosting such events in Illinois have become targets of vandalism and threats.
For Hall, the importance of Barbie’s inclusivity expanded far beyond the hot pink walls of the pop-up. Her own drag looks include a re-creation of the 1999 Goddess of Asia collector Barbie, crafted by prolific costume designer Bob Mackie. It not only highlighted the importance of the LGBTQ+ representation Barbie provided, she said, but the Asian representation as well.
“Barbie is for everybody,” she said with a smile.
Barbie has always been a reflection of the times, Freeland said. And the cafe’s namesake is certainly no exception. When Malibu Barbie debuted in 1971, it was the first time a Barbie was depicted with her eyes looking ahead, rather than sporting the demure sideways glance that had been her staple. Freeland noted this push toward female empowerment exemplified in Barbie’s identity is resonant more than ever in modern times, when Barbie’s careers span from president to astronaut.
And guests will be able to further that empowering message with the $1 skating fee, which will be donated to Girls Inc. Chicago.
Toward the end of the night, echoes of, “Thanks for coming in, Barbies!” filled the room and glitter-clad partygoers still wore smiles as they prepared to brave the real world once again, saying a bittersweet goodbye to their trip down memory lane.
Tickets are $34-$44 for adults, $17-$25 for children, and include an entree and side item during a 90-minute reservation. 324 S. Racine Ave., bucketlisters.com
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