This Dive Bar Is Turning Out the Best Burger in Oakland
On my most recent visit to the Bay Area, I hit all the places people were telling me to hit: the new small-plates wine bar, the handmade soba spot, the tasting menu seafood restaurant, the cocktail-bar-turned-food-destination. And when I got on the plane for the return flight home, there was no doubt in my mind where I’d eaten the most delicious food: at the Lodge, a neighborhood tavern in Oakland that reminds me of the places I’d hang out at in Chicago—but that are increasingly difficult to find in New York and S.F. A place with non-ironic antler heads, a popcorn machine, and a tiny kitchen that plays host to pop-ups, such as, on the night I visited, one called Lovely’s, run by the chef Mikey Yoon. Here I ate the most flawless diner-style burger I’ve had in recent memory, and that’s coming from someone who has eaten many diner-style burgers in her lifetime. I had to know what Yoon was doing back there in that closet-size kitchen to make an even more special sauce, so I jumped on the phone with him to get the details.
The Beef
“I wanted to tackle a classic five- or six-dollar burger. I grind the meat every day. Because I’m doing a thinner-style patty, I need more fat, and I get that from using a ratio of about 70-to-30 chuck roll to brisket.”
The Technique
“This is a very Midwest-style griddle burger, so I smash the patty, making sure I get a good crust. From there I salt and flip it, and that’s when the onions go on. I call them glitter magic onions because I glitter the beef with my onions.”
The Cheese
“It’s just cheap American cheese.”
The Bun
“I’m from Maryland, so Martin’s are the buns I grew up with. Back then you would only find them in certain places on the East Coast! I toast them in beef fat on the plancha.”
The Toppings
“I get Early Girl tomatoes from the farmers’ market when they’re in season, but the lettuce is always shredded iceberg, which is important for that crunch. Then I add two County Fair pickle slices: They do the job well and have a nice tang.”
The Sauce
“I make homemade mayo that’s kind of a riff on Edna Lewis’ recipe, which is super Southern style. I want the richness of the Hellmann’s or Duke’s that I loved as a kid. I combine that with ketchup, mustard, and other seasonings for the burger sauce.”
Originally Appeared on Bon Appétit
