What Does Azelaic Acid Do? (Apparently a Lot)
Hyaluronic, glycolic and salicylic acid: Most of us have heard of these skincare ingredients before, but there’s another ingredient you may want to familiarize yourself with (especially if you deal with acne, hyperpigmentation or rosacea) and that’s azelaic acid.
While “must try” skincare ingredients are a dime a dozen these days thanks to TikTok, azelaic acid has some solid research (and no shortage of glowing testimonials) behind it. A big part of its appeal lies in its versatility, as it can be used to treat several skin concerns at once and is compatible with most other active ingredients, so you can easily add it to your existing routine.
What exactly does azelaic acid do for your skin?
Perhaps a better question is what doesn’t it do for your skin? A Jack (or Jill) of all trades, azelaic acid is a gentle exfoliant that’s generally well tolerated by all skin types. Like a glycolic acid, it helps to loosen the connective glue that holds the top layer of skin cells together, so they don’t clog pores and it clears the way for fresh cells to come to the surface.
Azelaic acid has also been shown to block tyrosinase (aka the enzyme that’s responsible for producing melanin or pigment in your skin), which makes it an effective fighter against hyperpigmentation. And because it’s not done showing off just yet, it can also help calm inflammation caused by acne or rosacea.
Who could benefit from using azelaic acid?
Again, if you’re dealing with breakouts, brown spots or rosacea, azelaic acid could be worth looking into. It is particularly well-suited for people with combination or oily skin and it’s also worth noting that azelaic acid is one of very few ingredients that’s considered safe for pregnant or breastfeeding women (which is welcome news considering the acne and melasma that sometimes comes with hormonal changes).
On the other hand, if you’re not experiencing any of the aforementioned concerns and are just enticed by the buzz, we’d share what our derm friends always say to us whenever we ask for skincare advice: Less is more (meaning don’t overcomplicate your routine if you don’t need to).
Who should stay away from azelaic acid?
In general, azelaic acid is well tolerated by most people. However, as always is the case when testing new skincare ingredients out, we’d recommend speaking with your derm beforehand (especially if you have very sensitive skin that tends to burn or sting easily or you’re on a prescribed regimen already).
How to use azelaic acid
This is one ingredient that’s safe to use during the day or at night (or both day and night depending on your skin type and individual needs). Whether you decide to go with an over-the-counter formula or a prescription strength version, you’ll want to apply it in a thin layer over clean, dry skin and top it off with a moisturizer or an SPF in the morning.
What to avoid while using azelaic acid
Luckily, this is one ingredient that plays well with many other commonly used actives like AHAs or niacinamide. One pairing to maybe skip is BHAs and azelaic acid, as the combo can be too harsh for some people; if you want to use both ingredients, we’d suggest using them on alternate days or applying one in the morning and one at nighttime. (And because it bears repeating: Finish with a moisturizer or sunscreen.)
OK, ready to shop some over-the-counter options ahead?
Best azelaic acid products:
1. The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
Beloved by thousands of fans for its ability to treat active breakouts, while also fading dark spots from past acne, this budget buy has a gel cream texture that absorbs well. The potent formula offers a whopping ten percent concentration of pure azelaic acid to brighten overall skin tone and improve skin texture over time.
2. Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
Skin acting up lately? This multi-tasking gel cream features a blend of azelaic and salicylic acid, plus licorice root, to clear up blemishes, fade dark spots and refine the overall texture of your skin without causing irritation. Apply on its own or mix with your favorite serum or moisturizer.
3. Naturium Azelaic Acid Emulsion 10%
Inspired in part by founder and beauty influencer Susan Yara’s wish to have a product she could safely use during her pregnancy, this lightweight formula calms visible redness, lightens up uneven tone and texture and decongests pores without ever feeling too heavy on your skin. We also appreciate that it’s fragrance-free.
4. Typology Mattifying Serum 10% Azelaic Acid
Très magnifique is how we’d describe this mattifying serum that keeps our typically oil-slicked foreheads less shiny. Azelaic acid, which is the star ingredient in the formula, helps regulate sebum production, while bamboo extract plays a supporting role in absorbing excess oil from the surface of your skin. The dropper top doles out just the right amount of serum each time.
5. PCA Skin Pigment Gel HQ Free
Last but not least, here’s our top pick if your main concern is fading discolored spots and/or brightening up your overall complexion. The small but mighty bottle is packed with an exfoliating blend of lactic, kojic and azelaic acids to lighten up existing hyperpigmentation, while preventing new spots from forming. (Some users swear it speeds up the healing process for pimples that have yet to come to the surface.)
