Dreamland, Archibald's land on Southern Living's list of best barbecue joints
Though Dreamland jumped from No. 32 in 2022 to No. 3 this year, and Archibald's went from No. 7 to No. 14 in Southern Living's list of The South's Top 50 Barbecue Joints, don't read too much into numbers, said Robert Moss, the magazine's contributing barbecue editor.
"I don't score them, per se," he said, in a phone interview while on the road to Raleigh, where he will, among other things, consume barbecue. Moss travels often, sometimes on specific joint-jaunts, other times fitting in feeds during other business. He works out of Charleston, S.C., writing about food, drink and travel, serving as restaurant critic for the Charleston Post and Courier, and has written five books on food culture and culinary history.
"It's not like a competition, where you assign points," he said, though he maintains a spreadsheet.
Last year's list was a return after pandemic years off, so for 2023, he revisited old favorites, while on the lookout for newer contenders. Many of the selected may remain the same year after year, but his rankings reflect more recent visits, the overall experiences. In 2022, Scott's Bar-B-Que, Hemingway, S.C., ranked No 1; this year, it's No. 5. Last year's No. 2, Snow's BBQ of Lexington, Texas, is this year's No. 1. Then comes Dreamland at No. 3.
"With Dreamland, I just really had a great visit, in that great dark dining room, the hall of memorabilia all around," he said, referring to the original, founded by John "Big Daddy" Bishop in 1958 at his home in Jerusalem Heights, rather than newer, larger franchises elsewhere in Alabama, and Georgia and Florida.
"Nothing against the other Dreamlands, but that first one's just the real deal. The menu's a little more limited (focusing on the landmark ribs, with chicken and sausage from the pit, along with fixin's, and two choices of dessert; expanded locations offer starters, sides, salads and so on) but they just do it so well," Moss said.
For 2023, Moss took one big swing through Georgia and Alabama, and up into the Carolinas. He also spent a significant amount of time in Texas, owing to its proliferation of offerings.
"I went a lot of places I hadn't been in awhile," he said. "The other factor is, over time I've become really more focused on regionality. I want the list to represent all the South's best barbecue, and there are so many variations. As much as I love Texas barbecue, I prefer to eat that when I'm in Texas."
Dreamland and Archibald's ribs make superior representatives of Alabama-style, he said, cooking on big brick beds over direct heat. Alabama's other regular joint on his list is Decatur's Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q, No. 23 in 2022, No. 21 this year.
"You just don't find ribs like that in Texas, or Memphis," Moss said.
If Dreamland vs. Archibald's vs. whomever becomes kind of a toss-up, he falls back on ididsyncracies, impressions.
"I always think, if I had to invite somebody who can only go to one of these two, which one would you go to first? So the rankings shuffle around a lot," he said.
And opinions of his lists rise and fall as well.
"I try to avoid looking at social media too much this week," he said, laughing. "80 percent of comments are positive, but that 20 percent .... 'You didn't include my favorite!' "
The full list of Moss' picks can be found on Southern Living's website.
Of No. 3 Dreamland, Moss writes:
"If you love ribs, you owe yourself a visit to Dreamland. The restaurant now has eleven locations in three states, but the red-painted cinderblock building on the south side of Tuscaloosa is where it all began back in 1958. The menu at the flagship is more barebones than at its fancier younger siblings — just ribs, sausage, chicken, and chopped pork sandwiches. The setting is more barebones, too, and that’s a virtue. Beneath a low ceiling, the red walls are cluttered with old license plates, framed photographs, and all sorts of Alabama Crimson Tide memorabilia — the perfect atmosphere for enjoying Alabama’s distinctive style of barbecued ribs.
"The big, meaty slabs have a wonderfully chewy texture with crisp bits of char around the edges, for they’re not slow-smoked but grilled over a hickory fire in a big brick pit. Be sure to add a link of sausage to your order, for it has a rich, smoky flavor with a punch of smoky brown char from the pit. Just don’t plan to visit when the Crimson Tide are playing a home football game. It gets a tad busy then."
Of No. 14 Archibald's, Moss writes:
"Alabama-style ribs are a category all their own. Full slabs are cooked hot and fast over a hickory fire on a big brick-and-cinder block pit, which imparts a distinctive firm, meaty texture and lots of delightful crisp, charred bits around the edges. One of the foremost practitioners of that style can be found just across the river from Tuscaloosa in Northport.
"At Archibald’s, the ribs are served doused in spicy, orange-hued vinegar sauce with slices of white bread laid over the top — perfect for creating impromptu sandwiches or soaking up the savory sauce. The restaurant is run today by the grandchildren of founders George and Betty Archibald, and in recent years they’ve expanded the dining area and added smoked chicken, hot wings, and fried fish to the menu. Archibald’s remains a bare-bones operation, though, and those fire-kissed ribs are still the main attraction."
Reach Mark Hughes Cobb at mark.cobb@tuscaloosanews.com.
This article originally appeared on The Tuscaloosa News: Dreamland, Archibald's ranked among South's best barbecue joints
