Eat James Beard worthy fried chicken in this obscure Indiana town

You’ve likely never heard of the Wagner’s Village Inn in Oldenburg, Indiana.

For that matter, you’ve probably never heard of Oldenburg — population 674 — steeped in German-American ancestry and historic churches.

But for fried chicken lovers it’s likely worth the roughly hour-long drive southeast of Indianapolis as the restaurant was just named a 2023 America's Classics Award winner by the James Beard Foundation, the preeminent U.S. culinary organization.

Wagner’s Village Inn was among six winners — one for each region recognized this year — named Wednesday.

“Some of the best fried chicken in the Midwest sizzles in cast-iron skillets at Wagner’s Village,” the James Beard Foundation says in its announcement.

The award is given to locally-owned eateries “that have timeless appeal and are beloved regionally for quality food that reflects the character of its community.”

About 100 restaurants across the country have received the honor since it was introduced in 1998. The only other Indiana restaurant to win in the category is St. Elmo's Steak House, which was recognized in 2012.

Wagner’s Village Inn, which opened in 1968, is in the Great Lakes region that includes Indiana, Illinois, Michigan and Ohio.

“The elements of the fried chicken at Wagner's are as unpretentious as the wood-paneled dining room: chicken, salt, pepper, flour, lard. There is no recipe,” the award notice says. “The gentle heat of the pepper pairs well with the farmhouse fixings that make up a family-style dinner: coleslaw, green beans, and mashed potatoes with gravy.”

Each bird is served in ten pieces, including the back and ribs.

The James Beard Foundation also has recognized two Indianapolis-area chefs as being among the nation’s best in 2023.

Abbi Merriss, of Bluebeard in Indianapolis, and Samir Mohammad, of 9th Street Bistro in Noblesville, were named semifinalists for James Beard Foundation awards this year.

Merriss and Mohammad are among a field of 20 in the running for best chef in the Great Lakes region.

Contact IndyStar reporter Cheryl V. Jackson at cheryl.jackson@indystar.com or 317-444-6264. Follow her on Twitter: @cherylvjackson.

This article originally appeared on Indianapolis Star: Wagner's Village Inn in Oldenburg, Indiana, known for fried chicken