Everything You Need to Know About Antioxidants for Skincare
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The superheroes of the beauty world are definitely the antioxidants in your creams and serums—if you’re not using one already, you’re missing out on some special powers.
“Antioxidants are there to neutralize what we call free radicals,” explains Mona Gohara, M.D., an associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine. “Free radicals are essentially pesky little chemical particles that can wreak cosmetic havoc on our skin.” Their effects can include fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and sagging skin.
All antioxidants help protect the skin from free radical damage, a.k.a. oxidative stress, but each has other specific skin benefits too. And while many skincare routines involve multiple antioxidants, it may be helpful to focus first on products whose primary antioxidant will help with your specific skincare goals. Here’s what’s what.
To smooth: vitamin A
Retinol and retinoids, which are derived from vitamin A, are game changers when it comes to collagen and elastin production. These are “the number one anti-aging ingredients” recommended by dermatologists, says Morgana Colombo, M.D., of Integrated Dermatology of Reston and Skintap. Vitamin A products work in two main ways: They increase skin cell turnover, leading to an exfoliating effect, and they promote collagen and elastin production, helping reduce fine lines and wrinkles and create more even skin tone and texture. Other benefits include reducing UV-related damage to skin and preventing further such damage. They can cause a little irritation, and they work best in conjunction with a nourishing and hydrating moisturizer. To smooth and rejuvenate your skin, look for products whose labels list “retinol” or “vitamin A,” or seek out a prescription retinoid from a dermatologist.
To brighten: vitamin C
If you’re looking for a brightened complexion or to combat a pigmentation-related skin concern like melasma or acne scarring, vitamin C is the antioxidant for you. It can bring radiance and glow to the skin as well as even out skin tone, says Dr. Gohara. Vitamin C helps decrease melanin production to combat hyperpigmentation, increases collagen production, and even helps protect skin from UV rays. It’s commonly found in formulations along with vitamin E, as the two ingredients stabilize each other for better results. Search for a formula with a vitamin C percentage of between 10% and 20%, ideally paired with vitamin E or another antioxidant.
To soothe: niacinamide
If inflammation or irritation is a top skin concern of yours, opt for a niacinamide-based product. Dr. Gohara explains that niacinamide has much better anti-inflammatory abilities than other antioxidants, which makes it great for those with conditions like acne or rosacea or with sensitive skin overall. Niacinamide also calms sensitive skin by hydrating, strengthening the skin barrier, and supporting the production of ceramides, essential building blocks of skin; this allows skin to retain water and look healthy and smooth. Seek out products whose labels say “niacinamide” or “vitamin B3” or have “niacinamide” in the top portion of the ingredient list.
To hydrate: hyaluronic acid
This antioxidant helps keep skin in peak health because of its unique ability to attract water into skin and maintain optimal hydration, which supports skin cells. Hydrating with hyaluronic acid reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles; plus, when skin is healthy and hydrated, skin cell production increases, creating a softer, smoother, more radiant look. The natural levels of hyaluronic acid in our bodies start to decrease as early as our 20s, so topical application then becomes even more important. Look for products with the word “hydrating” on the label and “hyaluronic acid,” or “sodium hyaluronate” in their ingredient lists.
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