New Farragut restaurant Elkmont Station is on the right track | Grub Scout

The Grub Scout
·4 min read

I’ll start by clearing up any confusion that may exist regarding the name of this new Farragut restaurant. It has no business connection whatsoever to Elkmont Exchange, the Broadway eatery I reviewed in 2017 that has since gone out of business. There is a common thread related to the Elkmont section of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, but that’s where the similarity begins and ends. The name Elkmont Station pays tribute to the railroad line that once connected Knoxville to the national park.

The Grub Spouse and I arrived for dinner on a recent Friday evening and were pleased to see that although we were far from being the only patrons on hand, they were still able to seat us immediately. Not long after our arrival, it seemed that the remaining empty seats filled in quickly.

Patrons enjoy the bar at Elkmont Station in Farragut on April 13. The bar menu features signature cocktails, beers and an extensive selection of wines.
Patrons enjoy the bar at Elkmont Station in Farragut on April 13. The bar menu features signature cocktails, beers and an extensive selection of wines.

The host handed us two different menus, one for food and one for the bar. The latter was much more extensive in its offerings, featuring signature cocktails, beers and an extensive selection of wines. I ordered a Xul IPA to accompany my meal. The food menu showcases local flavors and continues to evolve over time, but right now, the number of selections is limited.

Small-plate appetizers include deviled eggs and country ham, seared scallops, andouille and cornbread fried oysters, and sailor-style mussels. We debated between the smoked chicken egg rolls, made with collards and hominy, and the pimento cheese fritters. We wound up ordering the fritters ($11), which are served with a side of celery and a drizzle of red pepper jam on the plate.

The pimento cheese fritters Elkmont Station in Farragut are served with a side of celery and a drizzle of red pepper jam.
The pimento cheese fritters Elkmont Station in Farragut are served with a side of celery and a drizzle of red pepper jam.

Our serving was two fritters, each essentially a deep-fried cheese ball. Pimento cheese isn’t one of my favorites dairy products, but I have to confess that I really liked Elkmont Station’s treatment of it. The flavor of the cheeses itself was pleasantly understated, but the kick of the red pepper jam certainly jacked up the impact of the dish overall.

Elkmont Station offers a trio of salads — roasted beet, chopped and Southern peach — but we proceeded to check out the entrée listings. These included Low Country bouillabaisse, roasted Carolina trout, broiled salmon and coq au vin. The Spouse ordered the chicken and dumplings ($24) — pan-roasted airline chicken breast, napkin dumplings, baby carrots, pearl onions and chicken velouté.

The chicken and dumplings at Elkmont station consist of a sliced chicken breast flanked by dumplings with more of a dressing-like texture, all on a bed of gravy with carrots and onions.
The chicken and dumplings at Elkmont station consist of a sliced chicken breast flanked by dumplings with more of a dressing-like texture, all on a bed of gravy with carrots and onions.

I couldn’t decide between the short rib gnocchi and the shrimp and grits. Our server laid out compelling arguments for both, but my gut told me to go with the shrimp and grits ($26). This dish also features slices of andouille sausage and red-eye gravy.

Both entrees were fantastic. The grits were creamy, and the shrimp were tender, juicy and flavorful. The sausage was abundant and enhanced the plate with some spicy notes. The red-eye gravy provided that extra little touch that tied it all together.

Interestingly, the chicken and dumplings were not what either of us was expecting, visually. Rather than presenting itself with that familiar stewy consistency, this entree was a sliced chicken breast flanked by dumplings that had more of a dressing-like texture. Also featuring a bed of gravy with the carrots and onions, the whole ensemble was a delight.

Chefs work to plate dishes at Elkmont Station at 103 S. Campbell Station Road in Farragut in April.
Chefs work to plate dishes at Elkmont Station at 103 S. Campbell Station Road in Farragut in April.

Only two desserts were available that evening, but they both sounded sufficiently tempting for us to order one each. Also, we hadn’t yet stuffed ourselves thanks to the reasonably sized portions of our meals (although The Spouse did take home leftovers). I got the crème brûlée, and The Spouse ordered the tiramisu ($9 each). The brûlée was creamy and lightly sweet and covered by a caramelized shell. The tiramisu embodied all the flavors that item is known for, including that subtle suggestion of coffee.

There were portions of our meal during which our server was absent for longer than we would have preferred, but when he was on, he was on, and helped make the experience a hospitable one thanks to his menu knowledge and interpersonal skills.

Prepare to drop a nickel or two on dinner at Elkmont Station, but in my opinion, the food and an elegantly engaging setting make this new restaurant worth the investment. At least for now, everything there seems to be on the right track.

Elkmont Station

Food: 4.5

Service: 4.25

Atmosphere: 4.5

Overall: 4.5

Address: 103 S. Campbell Station Road

Phone: 865-288-3405

Full bar service

Hours: 4-9 p.m. Sunday, Tuesday through Thursday; 4:30-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Consider getting on board with this new Farragut restaurant, where fine cuisine, hospitality and atmosphere converge under one roof.

This article originally appeared on Knoxville News Sentinel: Restaurant review: Elkmont Station in Farragut is on the right track