Our favorite dishes and restaurants from 2021
Dec. 30—At the end of 2020, we were hopeful that 2021 would be a better year for all of us, but especially restaurants.
While nothing could be worse than dining rooms being closed for months on end, 2021 proved to be a mixed bag. Though the summer months, when many of us were newly vaccinated and ready to get out more, were great, the year is ending on a dour note with the ultra-contagious omicron variant on the rise.
So while I'm summing up my favorite dishes, restaurants and drinks from 2021, I'm also using this space to encourage readers to continue to support your favorite restaurants in any way you feel comfortable. We really want them to be there whenever it is that we get to the other side of this pandemic.
All of this being said, some really great restaurants opened this year in the east metro. And I found so much to like that I found it hard to narrow things down. Still, it's my job — one I continue to be thankful for — so I did my best.
Here are my most memorable dishes and favorite new restaurants from 2021. Here's hoping 2022 is the year that this pandemic finally fades away.
10 Favorite Dishes
Cashew and Herb Pate at Chip's Clubhouse
Even meat-eaters are interested in vegetable-forward dishes — and many chefs are becoming better at offering them. This creamy, rich pate from chef Gina Mangiameli relies on cashews for the unctuous mouthfeel and herbs to bring loads of flavor. Especially if I'm eating meat for my main dish, I like to start with something lighter, and this lovely little jar of pate is, in my opinion, the perfect starter. (And if you haven't had it yet, you should definitely follow it up with a Chip's cheeseburger — yes, there's a vegan version, too.)
$10.95; 272 S. Snelling Ave., No. 200, St. Paul; 651-330-1617; visitchips.com
Cassoulet at A-Side Public House
If there's one dish that screams warmth and comfort to me, it's cassoulet. Unfortunately, there are a lot of ways to screw up this dish — overcooked beans, too much meat, too salty. Imagine my surprise, then that a brewpub is turning out a fantastic version. White beans with the perfect bite, little bits of flavorful garlic sausage, crispy breadcrumbs for crunch and a tender confit duck leg. It's just the thing when the snow is flying, and you can watch through the glass garage doors of this former firehouse.
$27; 754 Randolph Ave., St. Paul; 651-756-1351; asidepublichouse.com
Duck at Myriel
I ate a lot of duck this year, but this plate of tender, juicy, crisp-skinned bird was far and away my favorite. The sauce, a sweet/sour black-vinegar-based beauty, was so good that I nearly licked the plate. It was on Myriel's a la carte menu, but as with anything you enjoy at chef Karyn Tomlinson's whole-animal-butchery, farm-to-table eatery, don't expect it to be there the next time you visit.
$28; 470 S. Cleveland Ave., St. Paul; 651-340-3568; myrielmn.com
Benjamin Bacon at Advellum Vegetable Eatery
Though Advellum, a stall in The Market at Malcolm Yards, is a great place for your vegetarian and vegan friends to eat, my favorite dish there is *mostly* vegetables, with a little perfectly crisp pork belly to gild the lily. The base of the dish is a crazy flavorful mung bean pancake, and adornments of crisp kimchi and gochujang aioli are tasty enough to make an amazing vegan meal if you're not into the pork part of it. But if you are, the melt-in-your-mouth, maple-soy-glazed bacon is where it's at.
$5; 501 30th Ave. S.E., Minneapolis; advellumvegetableeatery.com
Patatas Bravas at Stelle Belle
There's so much good stuff on the menu of this Mediterranean-influenced breakfast and lunch spot that I had a really hard time picking a favorite, but I came down on this comforting dish. In it, crispy bits of potatoes are coated in a smoked-paprika-heavy mix of spices, enlivened by a garlic aioli and topped with a perfect, sunny-side-up egg. It's pretty much the perfect brunch item.
$11; 325 W. Seventh St., St. Paul; 651-508-1654; stellabelle-stpaul.com
Banh Mi at Mi-Sant
There are a lot of Vietnamese food options in the Twin Cities, so you'd be forgiven if you've thus far not gotten to this Roseville eatery in a former Baker's Square. The owners are second-generation Vietnamese-Americans, and one of them, Quoc Le, is the son of the owners of the legendary Trung Nam bakery on University Avenue in St. Paul. And yes, this does mean that their baguettes and croissants are top-notch. The baguette, from which its banh mi are crafted, has a just-right crisp crust and airy inner crumb. It holds many options for meat fillings (bulgogi beef, lemongrass chicken and grilled pork to name a few), fresh pickled veggies, cilantro and pate if you want it (I do). The space is bright, modern and smells fantastic.
$6.75-$8.75; 1881 W. Minnesota 36, Roseville; 651-444-8107; mi-sant.com
MN Poutine from 328 Grill
While the burgers at this restaurant inside the St. Paul Park American Legion are ridiculously good, this tasty plate, which is so Minnesotan it hurts, is a must-try. Tots, check. House-made chicken wild rice soup, check. Ellsworth curds, check. The combo of all three is really just like a warm hug you can share with friends. You can get it at 246 Grill, chef Mik German's second enterprise inside the Uptown VFW, too.
$11; 328 Broadway Ave, St Paul Park; 651-459-8016; 328grill.com
Sunnies and Chips at Tipsy Steer in High Pines Brewing
This Wisconsin native's heart is warmed by all the sunfish and perch popping up on menus — not too long ago, I had to cross the border to get my fix. While Rosemount's The Clover and Apple Valley's Farmer and the Fishmonger came out with decent versions, my favorite of the bunch has to be these crisp, lightly breaded little fish, paired simply with fries, house-made tartar and a lemon wedge. The beer here is really good, too.
$15; 2704 N. Snelling Ave., Roseville; 651-200-3581; highpinesbrewing.com; tipsysteer.com/roseville
Vegetarian platter at Bole Ethiopian
I'm a total sucker for a good Ethiopian vegetarian platter, and the one at Bole does not disappoint: Little bits of spiced lentils; tender, cooked greens; potatoes, carrots and cabbage and more, all waiting to be scooped up with spongy, slightly sour injera. The best part about this dish? The new Bole in the Como Park neighborhood is cute enough for date night.
$13.45; 1341 N. Pascal St., St. Paul; 651-330-2492; boleethiopiancuisine.com
Dungeness Crab Boil at Smack Shack Bloomington
The new Smack Shack on the border of Bloomington and Edina, in a former Fuddruckers, has a few items the North Loop doesn't — including Dungeness crab, available in a boil format. If you haven't had Dungeness, which is in season during the winter and spring months, you're in for a treat — it's more savory and rich than the popular king crab, but there's still enough meat so you don't feel frustrated. Served with the typical boil sides of corn, red potatoes and a whole sausage link, there's enough food on this platter to serve two, especially if you start off with some fresh oysters, and I heartily recommend that you do.
Market price, was $51 in mid-December; 3801 Minnesota Drive, Bloomington; smack-shack.com
Five New and Notable East Metro Restaurants
Chip's Clubhouse
Tara Coleman of Hot Hands Pie & Biscuit lured friend and former co-worker Gina Mangiameli to the Twin Cities from Chicago to start this cozy restaurant on Snelling Avenue, and all we can say is: Thank you! Chip's is the kind of place I want to hang out. Unfussy, always delicious food, great cocktails, stellar service and a warm, funky atmosphere. Every friend I've brought here agrees.
Recommended dishes: Cashew and Herb Pate, Cheeseburger, Pork Belly Ramen, Pork Tenderloin Sandwich
272 S. Snelling Ave., No. 200, St. Paul; 651-330-1617; visitchips.com
Myriel
Chef Karyn Tomlinson is one of those passionate, cerebral cooks who not only thinks deeply about food, but also creates from the heart. Tomlinson has Scandinavian roots and has staged at some of the best restaurants there, and her whole-animal-cookery reflects that sensibility. Nothing is overly fussy, but the flavors are deeply satisfying. The tasting menu here is a commitment — both times I've had it, it took more than three hours — but it's the way things are done in Scandinavia, and if you let yourself settle into a leisurely experience, you come away nourished and relaxed. The a la carte menu, a more traditional experience, is where I found the duck I can't stop thinking about, and also some of the best duck-fat-fried potatoes I've ever eaten.
Recommended dishes: The menu changes too much to recommend anything, but the silky pureed soups are next-level, and anything with Tomlinson's homemade cottage cheese is delicious.
470 S. Cleveland Ave., St. Paul; 651-340-3568; myrielmn.com
The Market at Malcolm Yards
This one isn't technically St. Paul, but it's right on the border, so I'm counting it. After years of being not quite satisfied with any food hall I've visited, this one finally gets it right. The concentration is on high-quality vendors with food that is as pretty as it is delicious. You can get beer and wine at a serve-yourself beverage wall, or order composed cocktails at a proper bar. There's plenty of seating, indoors and out. The payment system — you get a card to use at all vendors so you get one bill at the end — is slick. All in all, it's just a cool place to meet friends or take your out-of-town guests.
Recommended dishes: Benjamin Bacon or Wild Boomer Burger at Advellum, Shredder Pizza at Wrecktangle Pizza; Burger at Bebe Zito; Dosa at Momo Dosa; Korean-style Chicken at Abang Yoli
501 30th Ave. S.E., Minneapolis; advellumvegetableeatery.com
Stella Belle
Mediterranean-influenced brunch? Yes, please! My new favorite spot for business meetings, Stella Belle offers refined, delicious egg dishes, sandwiches, salads and bowls, and has delicious, fresh-squeezed juices, smoothies and a killer coffee program to boot. The atmosphere is bright and airy, service is quick, and there's plenty of seating.
Recommended dishes: Patatas Bravas, Lemon Ricotta Pancakes, Fully Dressed Avocado Toast
325 W. Seventh St., St. Paul; 651-508-1654; stellabelle-stpaul.com
A-Side Public House
This former firehouse has been completely transformed into a brewhouse and restaurant, and the beer and the French-influenced menu here are on point. In an area with plenty of restaurants to choose from, A-Side has quickly become a go-to for a lot of neighbors, for everything from a grab-and-go breakfast and coffee to sit-down brunch, lunch or dinner. It's the kind of place everyone wants to live near.
Recommended dishes: Cassoulet, Fresh P.E.I. Mussels, Burger
754 Randolph Ave., St. Paul; 651-756-1351; asidepublichouse.com
