The first Juneteenth cookbook was written by an Athens author. Here's where you can meet her.
Nicole A. Taylor’s articles have appeared in such publications as the New York Times, Bon Appétit and Food & Wine, but when it came time to author her third cookbook, she decided to go back to where she and her interest in food were born – Athens.
The recent release of Taylor’s “Watermelon and Red Birds: A Cookbook for Juneteenth and Black Celebrations” will be celebrated with a trio of hometown events, the first on June 16 at Avid Bookshop, the second on June 17 at Fire Hall No. 2 and the third on June 19 at The National.
As a fourth-generation Athens resident and Clarke Central High School graduate, Taylor grew up in a working-class neighborhood on what is now Third Street and Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Pkwy. Her grandfather owned two houses, everyone had vegetable gardens and fruit trees, and cooking was essential for survival.
Taylor told the Banner-Herald that she had no idea that food would play such an important role in her future career, but was able to point to local businesses as part of her formative experience.
“Athens shaped the way that I cook and the way that I dine out, one hundred percent,” said Taylor. “I have fond memories of going to The Grill and A&A Bakery, and my first-ever upscale dining experience was at Harry Bissett’s (New Orleans Cafe & Oyster Bar).”
The idea for “Watermelon and Red Birds” came to Taylor just before the COVID-19 pandemic when she and her family were living in Brooklyn, N.Y., and they bought a house in Athens when work began on what would become the first cookbook to celebrate Juneteenth. “Watermelon and Red Birds” was published on May 31 by Simon & Schuster.
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Over the span of more than 75 recipes, Taylor’s book creates a bridge between the traditional African-American table and 21st-century flavors from drinks like the Afro Egg Cream and Marigold Gin Sour to such dishes as Beef Ribs with Fermented Harissa Sauce and Peach Jam and Molasses Glazed Chicken Thighs.
“Watermelon and Red Birds” also contains recipes for potluck contributions like Southern-ish Potato Salad and Cantaloupe and Feta Salad, and desserts like Roasted Nectarine Sundae and Radish and Ginger Pound Cake. The book includes a guide for readers to resource BIPOC-owned hot sauces, jams, spices, waffle mix companies and kitchen gadgets.
In addition to her previous works “The Up South Cookbook” and “The Last O.G. Cookbook,” Taylor executive produced “If We So Choose,” a 2008 documentary short about the desegregation of the former longtime Athens restaurant The Varsity.
If We So Choose from Southern Foodways on Vimeo.
Taylor said that the title “Watermelon and Red Birds” was meant to invoke a relatable and breezy summer image that also reflected the deep family connection that inspired the recipes and stories. She intends for the events at Avid, Firehouse No. 2 and The National to be the start of her own annual Juneteenth celebration in Athens.
“My mother told me that seeing a red bird meant that the soul of a loved one that had passed on was saying hello, and blowing them a kiss could bring good luck,” said Taylor.
This article originally appeared on Athens Banner-Herald: Nicole A. Taylor of Athens celebrates first Juneteenth cookbook
