Food Fare: Making the most of varied and versatile mushrooms

Fungi are remarkable organisms. Reading through an article on BBC.com titled “The Unexpected Magic of Mushrooms” will convince you of that. In fact you’ll find that many consider fungi to be “a great overlooked resource that could help humanity with some of its greatest problems.”

Fungi are already used in hundreds of ways — and researchers are looking at thousands more — from producing antibiotics and medications to treating migraines and multiple sclerosis to developing new types of bandages for chronic wounds; from creating biodegradable packaging and termite resistant building materials to degrading pollutants, cleaning up oil spills and eating plastic waste.

Here in the kitchen we have long appreciated the "unexpected magic" of fungi in the culinary arts. The yeast that helps us bake and ferment drinks is a good example. But the subjects of today’s column are the edible culinary mushrooms now available in a wonderful variety to add to dishes that range from soups to salads to main dishes and even desserts (although I didn’t try making any of those for this particular column).

Mushrooms are loaded with fiber, vitamins, minerals and other important nutrients. They provide moderate levels of protein and are naturally low in carbohydrates, fat free, cholesterol free and gluten free. They are energy dense, often budget friendly, can be used to extend portion sizes or allow us to go “meatless” and have a savory umami that counterbalances saltiness, allowing you to reduce the amount sodium in your diet.

People have foraged for wild mushrooms for ages. The locations of favorite morel patches here in Indiana are often a closely guarded secret. But hunting for mushrooms isn’t an option for everyone and you need to know what you are doing to ensure food safety. The author of “Mad For Mushrooms (Food & Wine — The Fall Wine Issue 2021)” quotes a friend as saying that “all mushrooms are edible, but some mushrooms are edible only once.” A mistake in identification could have significant ramifications, as some contain potentially deadly toxins.

For those of us not able to go hunting in the woods and pastures and who want to enjoy fresh mushrooms year round, there are now many more options available. The expansion of mushroom farming (and even grow-your-own kits) has taken us well beyond the well known white button, cremini and portobello trio (actually different variations and maturation states of the same species). Each variety offers different textures and flavor notes for our dishes. And dried mushrooms extend those choices even further.

Here are just a few of the options that you might have available — I have found all these varieties locally in either fresh or dried form at commercial or Asian groceries or at farmers' markets. The new Rose Hill Farm Stop on West Kirkwood carries a variety of fresh mushrooms from local growers as well.

• White button: Classic appearance with a short, thick stalk and a white cap. They are mild and blend well with most favors.

• Cremini (or baby bellas or browns): Similar in appearance to whites but with a light-tan to rich- brown cap, a firmer texture and a deeper, earthier and heartier flavor.

• Portobello: A larger relative of criminis, portobellos have tan or brown caps and measure up to 6 inches in diameter. They have a meat-like flavor and texture and can be grilled, broiled or roasted. They mix well with beef to extend portions.

• Maitake (hen of the woods): A wild, rippling, feathery look with fan-like caps and a rich, woodsy taste. High heat develops their characteristic flavor so they adapt well to grilling or broiling.

• Shiitake: Tan to dark brown in color, with broad, umbrella-shaped caps, wide open veils and tan gills. The curved stems should be removed. They have a meaty texture, rich in umami and woodsy flavors when cooked. Great for soups, sides, stir-fries and entrees and they work especially well with Asian-inspired flavors.

• Enoki: Tiny, button-shaped caps and long, spindly stems. Mild tasting and crunchy. Try them raw in salads and sandwiches or use in soups.

• Oyster: Can be gray, pale yellow or even blue, with a soft, velvety texture. The have a very delicate flavor and cook very quickly, making them a great option for quick meals like stir-fries and simple soups.

• Lion’s mane: White, globe-shaped fungi with long, shaggy spines. When cooked, this variety of mushroom is delicate, tender, juicy and meaty. Some people say they taste like seafood or crab meat.

• Porcini: Brown capped with thick stems and fragrant, they are prized in Italian and French cuisine.

Select fresh mushrooms with caps that are smooth and plump and don’t appear wrinkled or mushy. They should smell like mushrooms but shouldn’t have an overtly strong odor. Store them in the refrigerator in their original package or in a paper bag and they will last 5-10 days. They don’t freeze well fresh but can be frozen for a few months after cooking. Mushrooms can be cleaned with a damp paper towel or mushroom brush or lightly rinsed just before use but don’t soak them. Pat them dry to prevent “steaming” and encourage browning when they are cooked. Dried mushrooms should be rehydrated according to instructions and the liquid can be saved to add flavor to broths, soups and rice.

What to do next? Mushrooms are great for breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks in between. Eat them raw in salads, puree them into duxelles and soups or saute, stir fry, roast or bake them into side and main dishes. I’ve included a few recipes here for you to get started.

It’s the season, so I started with a lightly curried Pumpkin Mushroom Soup — more mushroom than pumpkin and with just enough curry, this was slightly sweet, slightly salty, full of flavor and still had plenty of texture. We topped it with a dash of sour cream and chopped chives and I fried up some crispy mushrooms for an additional garnish. It was filling and made a full meal with some crusty bread to accompany it.

Portobello Mushroom Pizza is a takeoff from stuffed mushroom caps. A set was quick and easy to make, lower in calories than a traditional pizza and made a nice snack. The caps stayed firm enough to eat by hand and you can use any of your favorite pizza sauces or toppings. Pair them with a salad and you’ll find yourself fully satisfied with dinner.

Lion’s Mane Mushroom Crab Cakes take advantage of this mushroom's meaty texture and inherent “seafood” flavor, which is enhanced by traditional crab cake herbs and spices. The mushrooms are shredded to approximate the texture of crab and mixed with binders to form into cakes. I found that they were a bit crumbly and that putting them in the freezer for half an hour or so before frying helped hold them together. A squirt of lemon and the homemade quick tartar sauce completed the dish but you could use your own favorite garnishes.

And finally I served up a Creamy Mushroom Pasta. It was a good recipe to use up all the remaining mushroom pieces from the previous three dishes, so nothing was wasted. The recipe called for rigatoni but any similar short pasta would work as well. The browned pecans added a nice crunch and while rosemary was optional, I found it really enhanced the flavor. If you’re not a rosemary fan, thyme or oregano would probably also work well. My wife and I both found the recipe to be a bit lemon heavy and if I make it again I’d probably use a bit less lemon juice or leave it out completely and simply use the zest, but that’s up to individual tastes.

These are just a few possibilities. If you love mushrooms but have just been cooking with the common button and baby bella varieties, consider branching out on the mushroom family tree. Each variety will add a new texture or flavor to your meals. And maybe I’ll even try some of the dessert recipes I found — but that’s a subject for another column.

More: Red Barn seeks donated food, goods for Thanksgiving baskets

Pumpkin Mushroom Soup

Source: Delaware Online

1/2 pound sliced fresh mushrooms

1/2 cup chopped onion

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons flour

1 tablespoon curry powder or cumin

3 cups chicken broth

1 pound can of pumpkin (NOT pumpkin pie filling)

1 tablespoon honey

Dash nutmeg

Salt and pepper

1 cup heavy cream

1. Saute mushrooms and onion in butter until softened. Stir in flour and curry.

2. Gradually add the broth, then the pumpkin, honey and seasonings to taste. Stir, while cooking, for 15 minutes.

3. Add cream and heat through without boiling.

4. Top with a dollop of sour cream if desired. (Or if you're really feeling fancy, use fresh, chopped chives.) Makes 6 servings.

Portobello Mushroom Pizza

Source: A Couple Cooks

6 medium portobello caps (about 10-12 ounces)

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 1/2 cups pizza sauce

1 to 1 1/2 cup mozzarella cheese

⅓ cup Pecorino Romano cheese (highly recommended*)

Toppings: Sliced Fresno peppers, fresh basil, other toppings as desired

1. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

2. Clean the portobello mushrooms and remove the stems. Place the mushrooms on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet gill side up. In a small bowl, mix the olive oil with the oregano and garlic powder. Brush the tops and bottoms of the mushroom caps with the oil, adding a little more to the bowl of spices if it runs out. Sprinkle the kosher salt evenly divided among the mushroom caps.

3. Place the baking sheet in the oven and roast the mushrooms for 10-15 minutes until tender. Once baked, drain the caps of all of the excess liquid (this step is important: otherwise the mushrooms are much too watery).

4. Turn down the oven heat to 425 degrees. Spread each cap with pizza sauce, then add mozzarella and pecorino cheese, and desired toppings. Bake 6-8 minutes until the cheese is melted. Serve immediately.

Recipe note

Pecorino has the best savory, salty flavor. If you can’t find it, substitute Parmesan cheese but add a few more pinches of salt.

Lion’s Mane Mushroom Crab Cakes

Source: Aubrey’s Kitchen

8 ounces lion's mane mushroom

1 egg (or flax egg)

1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs

1/4 cup onion (finely diced)

1 tablespoon mayonnaise or vegan mayonnaise

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

3/4 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon parsley (finely chopped)

1/4 teaspoon salt (to your taste)

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2-3 tablespoon oil (to fry cakes)

Optional garnish: Lemon wedges

Quick tartar sauce

1/4 cup mayonnaise or vegan mayonnaise

1 tablespoon dill pickle relish

1/4 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning

1. Hand shred lion's mane mushroom into small pieces resembling texture of flakey crab.

2. In large bowl, combine egg, mayonnaise, onion, Worcestershire sauce, Old Bay seasoning, Dijon mustard, parsley (finely chopped), salt and pepper. Mix until fully incorporated.

3. Mix in lion's mane mushroom until fully incorporated.

4. Mix in panko breadcrumbs until fully incorporated.

5. Form mixture into 3-4 equal size round flat patties (about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick).

6. Heat oil in saute pan on medium/high heat.

7. Cook patties for approximately 2-3 minutes per side. Should be golden brown and cooked throughout.

8. Add optional garnish, squeeze of lemon and enjoy!

Recipe notes

• Leftovers and storage: Transfer to airtight container or dish. Refrigerate for up to 48 hours. Can reheat and serve.

• Vegan/vegetarian substitutions or omission: You can use vegan mayonnaise and flax egg in place of regular mayonnaise and egg in this recipe.

Columnist's note

The ”cakes” are quite delicate, so handle them carefully. Putting them in the freezer for 20 minutes before frying will help them stay together.

Creamy Mushroom Pasta

Source: by Lena Abraham for Delish, Oct. 12, 2021

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3/4 cup chopped pecans

2 sprigs fresh rosemary (optional)

1 teaspoons lemon zest

3 tablespoons butter

1 pound mixed mushrooms, such as maitake, shiitake, cremini, or oyster, torn or sliced into bite-sized pieces

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 pound pasta, such as rigatoni

1 large shallot, finely chopped

1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley, divided

1/2 cup dry white wine

3/4 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan, plus more for serving

2 tablespoons lemon juice (from 1 lemon)

1. In a large, high-sided skillet, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add pecans and rosemary if using and cook, stirring frequently, until nuts are golden, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a medium heat-proof bowl; toss with lemon zest and a pinch of salt.

2. Wipe out skillet, return to heat and add butter. Once melted, add mushrooms, a large pinch of salt and a few cranks of black pepper; stir to combine. Cover and let liquid release from mushrooms, about 5 minutes. Uncover and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are golden all over and no liquid remains, 3-5 minutes more.

3. Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente. Reserve 1 cup pasta water and drain.

4. To the skillet with the mushrooms, add shallot and ¼ cup parsley. Cook, stirring until fragrant, 1-2 minutes.

5. Add white wine and cook until evaporated, 3-4 minutes, then add pasta, cream, and ½ cup of the pasta water. Cook, tossing frequently, until sauce has thickened slightly, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and fold in Parmesan, lemon juice and remaining parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

6. Serve topped with fried pecans and more Parmesan.

This article originally appeared on The Herald-Times: Recipes, food for thought: Mushrooms, veggies are versatile ingredient