A food tour of Atlanta: Georgia's Michelin-starred state capital
When you think of great American foodie destinations, the city of Atlanta in Georgia isn't usually on the list – but this is all about to change. While it has long been known to locals as a culinary capital, it is only now being recognised internationally as Michelin has announced its first guide to the city.
With the awarding of 10 Bib Gourmands, five new one stars, and two new green stars, the "Big Peach", as Atlanta is affectionately coined, is "as delicious as its moniker suggests", said the Michelin Guide. Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guides, added that they were "captivated by the quality, creativity and flavour in this diverse dining scene". This comes as no surprise for those in the know…
The best burger in America?
On a trip to Georgia's state capital I met David Nettey of Food Tours Atlanta at Ponce City Market. Once a factory and warehouse, it is now a collection of restaurants, shops and bars. At H&F Burger, where they make everything in house, except the American cheese slices, I bit into what has been described by The Daily Meal as "the best burger in America", and I couldn't disagree. "Food in Atlanta is colourful, diverse and vibrant," Nettey said. "There is a major food scene here, and I honestly do think people who come here are surprised." We followed up the burger with a scoop of butter pecan from Honeysuckle Gelato, which produces its ice cream in the Deep South, and a locally brewed IPA from The Tap on Ponce, which prides itself in finding small and independent local breweries. Locality is important in Atlanta.
After burgers, beers and ice creams, we certainly weren't hungry, and needed to work up an appetite for our next meal. So we walked along the BeltLine, a 22-mile stretch of former railroad track that is now a network of public parks and multi-use trails that snakes through the city. Along the way are new independent stores, bars, and restaurants which have revitalised some of Atlanta's poorest neighbourhoods. We walked south towards the Martin Luther King Jr National Park, a poignant memorial to the civil rights champion who was born just a short distance away. Here you can visit his childhood home and the Ebenezer Baptist Church he preached in.
The one restaurant everyone insisted we try was South City Kitchen, which offers an elevated take on traditional, hearty, Southern, soul food. Think shrimp and grits, Carolina trout, and, of course, fried chicken. I chose the chicken and it arrived crispy and succulent, accompanied by the smoothest mash and salty collard greens. This is Southern food with a twist, and while it has been refined, it hasn't lost any of its famous flavour or rich heritage.
'A really exciting time for Atlanta'
We spent the next morning in the High Museum of Art, which is home to pieces by European masters like Claude Monet and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, as well as American icons like John Singer Sargent. Lunch was spent trying another American icon – meats cooked "low and slow" at Twin Smokers BBQ in downtown. BBQ is a way of life in the South, so it is taken very seriously here. From the sides like mac 'n' cheese and pork scratchings, to the sweet smoked beef brisket and juicy turkey, it is hard to resist. Plus, creations like bourbon milkshakes and moonshine cocktails are a new take on American classics.
But Atlanta's cuisine isn't just about burgers, BBQ or soul food. At Lyla Lila, the team has created an innovative European-inspired menu with a Southern influence. Our waiter Stafford, an ex-chef from New Jersey, spoke with knowledge about the food he was serving, as well as the wine he was pouring. He has lived in Atlanta for many years and considers it one of the best cities in the US for food. "There's so much to try here, we have tried to build a menu that is multi-layered," he said. "It is a really exciting time for Atlanta." I tried the porcelet with mint salsa verde and grilled Georgia peaches, a fruit the state is famous for, and was blown away by the delicacy and elegance of the dish. I ended the evening with an ice cream sandwich – a childhood favourite – which was given a new lease of life using amarena cherry gelato and pizzelles, an intricately designed Italian waffle.
The verdict
Atlanta is a city buzzing with colour and life and I discovered a sophisticated food scene that references the past while looking to the future. Each dish exposed a layer of a culinary culture that is as rich in heritage as it is in flavour – it is about time the experts deemed it worthy of some attention.
Where to stay and how to get to Atlanta
Loews Atlanta Hotel is located in Midtown, one of the coolest neighbourhoods in the city. There are 414 modern guest rooms, including 44 suites, all of which feature floor-to-ceiling windows and views over the skyline. Breakfast is served at the Saltwood Charcuterie & Bar and the hotel also has gym facilities and an award-winning spa.
British Airways flies direct to Hartsfield–Jackson Atlanta International Airport from London Heathrow. Prices start at around £700 return.
Jaymi McCann was a guest of the Atlanta Convention & Visitors Bureau; discoveratlanta.com
