Fumito Ganryu Men’s Spring 2020
Where to find respite from a tech-driven society? By escaping into nature, or at least looking at pictures of it, according to Japanese designer Fumito Ganryu.
For his third standalone collection, the former Comme des Garçons designer looked at National Geographic magazine, Instagram and large-scale pictures taken by drones to create his landscape prints.
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“At first my theme was architecture, but that led me to thinking, what is the new garment construction today?” said the designer backstage. “I love pictures of landscapes and the freedom they inspire, so I wanted to merge that freedom with a new way of coordinating garments, stepping away from classical codes. It’s no longer this form with that, this color with another, but rather about creating a coherent story instead: Sky prints on the top, earth prints on the bottom.”
Blues and greens dominated the first part of the show: Raindrops, glaciers, starry nights and cerulean skies were printed via inkjet on polyester shirts, tops and bomber jackets, while a technical raincoat featured vibrant leaf and grass prints.
Accessories were a strong point: models wore low-brimmed bucket hats with PVC visors by Japanese milliner Akio Hirata, while shoes were either technical sneakers created in collaboration with Salomon or easy slides by fellow Japanese label Suicoke.
Basic ensembles were shaken up by neon colors — a red shirt, a neon yellow T-shirt, purple pants — before ending with a series of grey, black and beige looks, showcasing Ganryu’s knowledge of tailoring. Shoulders were boxy, pleats on jackets created an A-line silhouette and tailored trousers sported low hems, dragging the silhouettes down a bit. The effect was dulling after the luxurious prints of the first dozen looks: It felt like returning to the grey city after a refreshing weekend in the countryside.
Launch Gallery: Fumito Ganryu Men's Spring 2020
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