Getting your apple a day
Aug. 30—As the calendar marches into late August with September on the horizon, the desirable fresh produce might be the apple of your eye.
Southeast Minnesota, especially along the Mississippi River, is almost a mecca for apples, and the many varieties are pretty much available now and through the fall. Overall, Minnesota is home to more than 100 apple orchards growing more than 30 different varieties totaling roughly 20 million pounds of apple goodness.
I've always associated the Minnesota State Fair with the start of apple season because that's when we always had our first apples. Remember the State Fair apple? That's now been replaced by First Kiss apple.
Apples have become big business and to find out more about how they get from apple trees to retailers and into apple pie I went to Wescott Orchard, just outside Elgin, Minnesota. Not only is it one of the largest, premier growers in the Midwest but they also pack, sell and distribute all over the country as well as to parts of the southern hemisphere. Who would guess that in the middle of this pastoral southern Minnesota setting is a business as far-reaching as this one.
The orchard was started over 40 years ago by Robert Wescott, a local veterinarian, who decided he wanted to grow apples as a hobby, something to do in retirement. His son, Fred Wescott, one of his 13 children, helped with the planting and maintenance during college and stayed with it. He now heads up the far-reaching and diversified business with assistance from his two children and brother-in-law. I recently spent time with Wescott and left with my head spinning with information as well as two bags of wonderful apples.
Wescott, literally starting from the ground up, has developed a business that reaches all over the Midwest as well as the rest of the country, Washington State being one of the hubs. Chile and Argentina are also a big part of this business. When you see products with the Honey Bear logo, that is what he describes as a sister business. He also heads the Mississippi Valley Fruit Company, which assists local family orchards in picking, packing, selling and marketing their apples in Minnesota and Wisconsin.
Apple cider has also become an important side of this operation, and the popular Pepin Heights apple cider is now part of the Wescott family.
An important and vital part of this business is their Varietal and Development program that tests hundreds of apples looking for the next big winner. Recently, the Wescotts had two — Pazazz and River Belle — that became big commercial hits.
So what makes a winning apple?
"Taste is the main thing and that can be difficult because we all taste differently. Appearance and texture are important. We also look at its commercial viability and the culinary component," said Fred Wescott. "The Honeycrisp, when it was released, was a game changer. It has a delicate cell structure which when you bite into it gives a snap."
It is now one of the most popular and best-selling apples. Interestingly it was the Honeycrisp that inspired Wescott to bring growers in Washington State into their fruit business.
As an expert on everything apple, which varieties does Wescott recommend? Honeycrisp, First Kiss, Pazazz, River Belle and Haralson. While Honeycrisp has become a Minnesota classic, it is also taking the place of Haralson's in popularity.
Even so, Haralson's have had a long, successful run, being introduced by the University of Minnesota in 1922. They were a favorite right from the start, also the standard by which many consumers judged other apples, both for eating and cooking.
Wescott is also excited about the success of the Pazazz apple, a cross between a Honeycrisp and an unknown cultivar. It was created by Doug Shefelbine at his experimental fruit farm near Eau Claire, Wisconsin. Wescott describes it as having a crunch, being exceptionally sweet and with a flavor reminiscent of Honeycrisp but with more acid, starch and sugar.
While he is about to release a new apple he wasn't at liberty to say much about it except it is yellow with a name similar to a romantic getaway. It is currently being tested in a few select markets.
It was also interesting to learn that different varieties appeal to different ethnic groups.
"Here in the Upper Midwest, with the northern European influence, we prefer a more tart apple, hence the popularity of the Haralson."
These next weeks take a drive to some of the apple orchards in our area, of which there are many. I'd also encourage a drive to Wescott Orchard. The address is 28085 County Road 25 just north of Elgin. Hours are 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday, and closed on weekends.
There are no hayrides nor is there a petting zoo, just a simple structure with coolers full of the best apples Minnesota has to offer. I promise you.
16 medium apples (4 lbs.)
4 cups sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon cloves
Wash apples and remove blossom and stem ends. Do not peel or core. Cut apples into small pieces and put in a large saucepan. Add 2 cups water, cover and simmer until apples are soft. Press through a sieve or food mill. Measure 2 quarts pulp. Now, combine apple pulp, sugar and spices in a large saucepot. Cook slowly until thick enough to round up on a spoon. As it thickens stir often so mixture doesn't stick to bottom of pan. If it gets too thick add a little water or cider for desired consistency. Ladle hot butter into hot jars, leaving about 1/4 inch head space. Adjust caps. Process 10 minutes in a hot water bath. Makes about five pints.
1-1/2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon each baking powder, baking soda and cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon each nutmeg and salt
1/8 teaspoon cloves
1/2 cup unsalted butter at room temperature
1 cup sugar
1 egg at room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup applesauce, room temperature
1/3 cup each of golden raisins, dried currants and finely chopped walnuts or pecans
Preheat oven to 350. Grease and flour an 8-inch square pan. In a bowl whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, spices and salt. Set aside. With a mixer beat butter until creamy and smooth, about 30 seconds. Add sugar and keep beating until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Stop once in awhile to scrape bowl. Beat in egg and vanilla. At very low speed add the dry ingredients alternating with the applesauce, beginning and ending with the dry ingredients. With a spatula gently fold in the raisins, currants and nuts. Spoon batter into pan and spread evenly. Bake 25-30 minutes or until cake springs back when lightly touched in the center. Move to a cooling rack and cool 10 minutes. Turn cake upright onto rack to cool. Frost with a frosting of your choice, or leave plain. This cake improves served the next day.
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
2-1/4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 cup whole milk
2 eggs, room temperature
2 tablespoons melted, unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 cups sweet apples, peeled, cored and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
Oil for frying
Powdered sugar for dusting
In a large bowl whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. In another bowl whisk together milk, eggs, butter and vanilla. Gently fold milk mixture into flour mixture until just combined. Fold in apples. Meanwhile heat 2 inches of oil in a medium, heavy bottomed pot over medium-high heat until a thermometer registers 350. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet. Working in batches drop heaping tablespoons of dough into oil. Cook, turning once, until puffed and golden, 3-4 minute. Transfer to rack with a slotted spoon. Cool slightly, then dust with powdered sugar.
Post Bulletin food writer Holly Ebel knows what's cookin'. Send comments or story tips to
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