Shortly after showcasing his Fall/Winter 2022 collection for Y/Project, Glenn Martens has unveiled his takeover for Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring/Summer 2022 Couture collection. The announcement, initially made in September last year, follows the house's Fall/Winter 2021 Couture show by sacai's Chitose Abe.
The anticipated presentation is Martens' refreshing take on JPG Couture. The range is led by a Breton marinière dress with hand-embroidered details, perfectly blending the Y/Project and Diesel designer's style (spotted on cut-out details at the waist) with Gaultier's signature sailor stripes. Similar silhouettes are seen throughout the collection, featuring ribbed knit fabrics as well as colorful animal patterns.
Martens told Vogue: "I am only doing this for one season, so it’s not like I have to envision a whole new future for the house; that’s a very different exercise. This is a celebration of Gaultier. I’ve stayed close to the woman Jean Paul created in the past -- pure diva goddess beauty, hips, whatever, all that drama he loved." He added: "I’m building on that through what I think of his iconic Gaultier moments. This marinière… it’s so him, but I completely fucked it up with all the fake coral spikes. I’m reinventing those iconic moments in my own way."
The creative references '90s JPG with a series of corset looks, in addition to chiffon dresses. In true Martens style, Y-shaped silhouettes repeatedly appear on the gowns, which are contrasted with voluminous black and green designs.
Scroll through the gallery above for a full look at Martens' Jean Paul Gaultier Couture collection.