7 Steps to Glowing Skin, From Within
Ask just about anyone these days and they will tell you that their number one beauty goal—their ideal "look" if you will—is to glow. And not just glow because they are covered in iridescent powder, shimmering highlighter or illuminating primer (though, that does help considerably). They want that lit-from within glow that is only enhanced by the products they use. However, enhancing products can only do so much if the skin itself isn't well tended to, whether it's dry and textured, or simply a little uneven in tone—or washed out. Think of it this way: your beauty routine is a house, you can paint the walls and arrange the furniture any way you want, but if the foundation isn't solid, your decor is never going to shine. Whether you're baby-faced or beautifully mature, a makeup maximalist or a sweep-of-mascara-and-out-the-door type, having a dewy, fresh, glowing complexion is the most essential beauty weapon in your arsenal, and we're here to tell you exactly how to get it.
1. Exfoliate
Like dust on a polished surface, old, dead skin cells can make even the dewiest skin look dull and decidedly un-lustrous. "Dullness is often caused by dead skin cell buildup, so exfoliating can help brighten the skin by sloughing these dead cells away," says dermatologist Sejal Shah.
As you may know, there are basically two kinds of exfoliants: chemical and physical. Physical exfoliants are scrubs, which slough away old cells with gritty substances and a touch of elbow grease, whereas chemical exfoliants use dead skin cell melting substances like glycolic or lactic acids to unstick stubborn cells. Both types can prove effective, but many dermatologists recommend chemical options as a first line of dullness defense.
"I tend to prefer chemical exfoliation over mechanical exfoliation because I find that people often over-scrub, which can damage the skin," explains Shah.
"Although it sounds harsher than mechanical exfoliation, chemical exfoliation is actually gentler on the skin because it does not involve scrubbing. There are also a range chemical exfoliants in regards to strength so can be tailored to specific skin types. Try Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial, which uses glycolic, tartaric, lactic, citric, and salicylic acids for serious skin freshening.
If you just can't give up the scrub love, Shah recommends avoiding versions with jagged particles like nut shells which can be more damaging to the skin and easier to overdo (we like Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant, which uses ultra-fine rice powder for a very gentle exfoliating experience.)
For a more intensive skin sloughing, take things to the doctor's office for a chemical peel or laser resurfacing, which can smooth skin more dramatically under the guidance of your trusty dermatologist. But the big takeaway is exfoliation is how you prime your canvas, everything you do after that step will be less effective.
2. Retinoids
Another culprit in a dull complexion is unevenness. Dermatologists love retinol and other retinoids, which are forms of vitamin A that encourage your skin to speed up its natural turnover (the process wherein old skin cells are sloughed away and replaced by fresh new ones.) Faster cell turnover leads to more collagen, the springy framework that keeps young skin plump and glowing, and in turn, fewer fine lines and smoother skin texture.
"Retinoids can be irritating to the skin, so start with an over-the-counter retinol at a low concentration and gradually build up," Shah suggests (we like RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream.) "I usually recommend starting 3 nights per week and increasing to nightly as tolerated. Prescription retinoids are more effective than OTC retinoids."
3. Vitamin C
When it comes to brightening up dark spots and pigmentation issues, vitamin C really brings its A-game. Considered the gold-standard of skin brightening, vitamin C (aka ascrobic acid) interferes with the development of pigmentation, so with regular application and time it can help to tame those spots from your less SPF-aware days.
The good news is that vitamin C is incredibly easy to integrate into your skincare regimen (just apply a few drops each morning before your moisturizer) and suitable for all skintypes. The only downside? The high-quality vitamin C products that will give you the best, most consistent results don't tend to come cheap. "I do feel that not all vitamin C products are created equal, and while there are newer effective and budget-friendly options, this is one ingredient worth splurging on," says Shah.
4. Sunscreen
We hate to sound like your mother, but the only way to get your healthiest, brightest, most glowing complexion is to keep damaging UV rays far away from your precious cells. You know what that means—sunscreen, every day, no matter what. It may even help reverse aging—talk about a wonder product!
5. Collagen
While you're investing in products to encourage collagen production, why not give your body a boost of the good stuff too? Between bone broth, skin vitamins, and mixable powders, collagen supplements are the hottest thing on the beauty scene right now. As for whether they work, there's very little clinical evidence that proves their efficacy for skin, but since collagen is important to many of your body's systems (everything from your ligaments to your eyes) including it in your diet certainly isn't going to hurt.
"Like other proteins, collagen that you are eating or drinking is broken down into amino acids in your gastrointestinal tract," explains Shah. "The amino acids may potentially reach the skin and help maintain healthy skin, but amino acids from ingested proteins, including collagen, are distributed throughout the body based on need and, overall, the skin is lower on the list compared to the heart and brain."
She adds that age may also be a factor, with older people potentially benefitting more from the skin effects of ingested collagen, since our bodies tend to become more collagen deficient as the years go on.
But eating collagen isn't the only way to boost production in the body to maintain a bouncy complexion. Facial massage, and specifically massage of the soft tissues and connective tissue called fascia, can help. Gua Sha, which has been used for years, is a great daily practice for reducing tension in the face as well as getting circulation going, but if you want to boost collagen in the face, you can also try stimulating the fascia.
Rochelle Weitzner, founder of Pause, a beauty company based on the foundation of aging, but aging well, developed a surgical steel Fascia Stimulating tool that is clinically proven to improve the function of our skin cells, with daily use. She explains how the massage tool works, here:
"Due to its unique beveled edge we can get maximum benefit with minimal pressure improving health of the fascia, the connective tissue beneath the skin. Fibroblasts, the cells that produce collagen and elastin, live in the fascia. The Fascia Stimulating Tool can help wake up the fibroblasts to improve function and increase production of collagen, the support net of our skin, which will help to firm and strengthen the skin, improving skin density and minimizing sagging. At the same time, we are also improving vascularity (blood flow, circulation). When you get a fascial adhesion, the layers of the fascia are essentially stuck together, in the body this is often referred to as a “knot” but for the face it often results in gray, dull skin as that area will not have proper circulation. By gently breaking up the fascial adhesion, we improve blood flow to the skin and can help restore that healthy glow.
6. Moisturizer
It may seem obvious, but when it comes to dewy, glowing skin, moisturizing is essential. "When your skin is dry, it looks dull, so hydrating ingredients can help bring back that glow," says Shah.
For skintypes already prone to shine, adding moisture may seem like the last thing you need, but an oil-free hydrator with ingredients like hyaluronic acid (try Tatcha The Water Cream) could actually help reduce your sebum production and even out slickness into a sleek glow.
Normal and dry types can push the envelope with richer options including ceramides, which can strengthen skin's natural barrier and help it hold onto moisture better, and oils, especially ones rich in lineoleic acid like argan oil. Makeup artist Molly R. Stern, who gives Reese Witherspoon that enviable glow, recommends Dior Capture Totale Le Serum."It gives the skin the most glowing base and wears beautifully under makeup," she says.
7. Highlighter
No surprise, for maximum glow, you're going to need some cosmetic intervention. The good news is that highlighters have been a major trend in recent years, meaning there are more chic (read: un-disco-ballish) options that bring light not spackle to the face, than ever.
For a look that will last all day, cream versions can be a great choice. They melt into skin in a way that looks subtle and natural—just what you want for a daytime glow. Stern likes Kjaer Weis Highlighter in Radiance for cheeks because its creamy, luscious texture and faint iridescence, as well as Glossier Haloscope in Quartz for its easy-to-apply stick formula and wear-anywhere subtlety. Another great allover option for a hint of illumination without coverage is Saie Beauty's Glowy Super Gel.
Want a more targeted dose of glow? Powder highlighters allow you to effortlessly layer shimmer until you've achieved the effect you're looking for. "I have been using the NARS Highlighting Powder in St. Barths," says Stern. "It’s got an earthy base tone to it and works on all skin tones beautifully." She's also a fan of the Chantecaille Les Paillettes highlighter, which has a summery rose gold finish. "It's not only gorgeous on the cheeks, but looks amazing on the eyes too!" she says.
And if highlighter isn't your thing, any easy way to give yourself a "just got out of the sun" radiance is to sweep bronzer (matte or shimmering, whatever you please) along the high points of the face: top of the cheekbones, brow bones, across the nose and temples. It's instant health.
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