'A Greek island escape in our 70s? Never mind Covid, we needed a holiday'

Whilst we are particularly blessed in our country home with family close by, and we had understood and tolerated the restrictions imposed upon us by the pandemic, as fairly healthy individuals it was hard to feel restricted simply because of our age. Holidays were opening up to the rest of the country and we did not want to be left behind – we too wanted to extend our horizons.

Because now, surely, our age could easily be considered an advantage. With flights restarting, air bridges with many European countries established and hotels reopening, travel further afield became an exciting prospect. With no work or family commitments even the prospect of being asked to quarantine on our return was not so alarming. After all we had just come through three months in isolation. What would another two weeks be to us?

Inevitably we had some hours of deliberation, debate and simple anxiety. Would our insurance cover us? The answer was yes, our policy was taken out before the pandemic and we had no plans to ignore Government advice about our destination. Would we be safe in the hotel? Research made it clear that the health and safety policies in hotels are meticulous in their attention to detail. Is air travel safe? We quickly came to the conclusion that it is probably the safest way to travel. But could we cope with wearing a face mask for several hours? There was no way of knowing in advance – but, we thought, why not try...

The next question, was where to go? A single destination we thought, with a simple brief: sunshine and water. We wanted to crash out in a way we had not done for some years in surroundings and climate just made for it. And even though we live surrounded by beautiful countryside, the one element we miss is access to water. An island? Why not a Greek island? And even better a Greek island with an emotional connection? Sovereign Travel had the perfect answer in Crete. A fabulous resort in the bay overlooking Spinalonga island which is at the centre of Victoria Hislop's famous book, The Island, and a dream destination since I first read it in 2005, and had revisited during lockdown. What could be better?

Decision made and booking complete, our first hiccup came at the bank. We knew that our bank cards would be accepted everywhere and may indeed be preferred in the current climate, but we are of a generation who prefer to have some currency available. Much to our surprise we were unable to purchase any euros. Consternation until M&S provided the solution – and the cash – within just 24 hours. The second hiccup was rather more troubling, when the air bridge to Spain collapsed. Would other countries follow? Were we nervous? Yes, of course – but still determined to go.

Online check-in complete for both journeys, only one hurdle remained: the Passenger Locator Form necessary for entry to Greece. This must be submitted by each passenger 48 hours before departure. It is acknowledged by email initially, and within the 24 hours before departure the form is returned including a unique QR code. On entry to Greece, the form must be shown in hard copy or on a digital device. We were told that in the event of our code not arriving in time for departure it is acceptable to show the email acknowledgement. Luckily, just into the 24-hour period our forms appeared as promised. Returning to the UK is a similar process. The form is completed online and acknowledged but the information is stored digitally and proof is not required at customs.

The airport was busier than we expected with some shops and food outlets open. Sadly, this did not include the airport lounge. Otherwise we had a very smooth outward journey. Everything felt very normal with only minor restrictions such as the removal of in-flight magazines. We quickly became accustomed to wearing face masks. The air on board was very fresh, even cool, and we did not suffer at all.

We were still wearing the masks as we left the airport building at Heraklion. Our taxi transfer was waiting, and the authorities in Greece are stringent about masks being worn in them. Heavy fines are imposed for infringement of the regulations. We witnessed this first hand on our return journey when we passed a minibus pulled over by police – the driver and each passenger were fined 450 euros!

Our arrival The Blue Palace Resort in Plaka heralds a friendly greeting and, very apologetically, a temperature check. We didn’t mind. We’d partly chosen it for its rigorous post Covid measures – it was reassuring to see these in action.

Whilst being relaxed about guests wearing masks, the hotel staff wear them at all times. We were particularly struck with the visor style adopted by the waiters. The visor was worn in what to our eyes was upside down, with the band worn around the chin so that the visor extended to the neck – a perfect adaptation when looking down at guests sitting at the table. Hand sanitiser stations are everywhere, staff are not allowed to be in the bedrooms at the same time as guests and cleaning is meticulous and constant. Numbers are restricted in lifts and the funicular car. We felt completely safe at all times.

Our spacious accommodation was a Blue Palace bungalow. Arriving in the dark we could glimpse our terrace and the cool blue of our illuminated private pool. Nothing more in the enveloping warmth of the Cretan darkness. Even at 2am room service provided a prompt light meal.

We pulled back the curtains next morning to a brilliant sun shining across the bay and the deep blue of the sea. And, framed by the window, was The Island. Just a brief boat ride across the bay, it felt near enough to touch, its houses and buildings with their sad-eyed empty windows speaking of lives lived and lost there. So evocative and moving.

But in the 38 degree heat, there was only one thing on our minds – to jump in the pool and take in the stunning view.

This mountainous area of Crete has a wild beauty. Once the bay held only the tiny fishing village of Plaka tucked into an inlet. Now the hills sweeping down to the beach are full of the villas and bungalows of the Blue Palace Resort, all built from local stone they are positioned so that each shares the wonderful view. In the cool of the pool it was possible to while away hours each day just looking out and watching the little boats crossing the bay. And we did just that.

Breakfast, served on a shady terrace high on the site, offers just about everything and food is served as far as possible by means of individual and often wrapped portions. Where this is not possible, food such as fruits, meats or cheeses are served by gloved waiters. For other meals and snacks a choice of five restaurants around the site includes service on the beach. A hotel app is the source of all information, especially useful for restaurant menus. Tricky at first for those of us who have to learn to carry our phones close at all times. Back at home the family could not believe the frequency of photos pinging across via Whatsapp to them.

Each restaurant has its own unique character and menu. Which do we remember as our favourite? Eating close to the organic vegetable garden with the chef gathering ingredients or the quirky taverna with tables nestled on a rocky site close to the water? Impossible to choose. Which pool for swimming? Our private pool, the feature pool alongside the reception hall or the large pool down on the beach. Maybe even a dip in the sea?

A short walk to the village felt like an adventure, though its charming collection of shops and bars set in tree lined streets were well worth the effort. Sadly with very few customers. It was so moving to see how they are struggling simply for lack of visitors.

Our holiday drifted away in a haze of sun, fantastic food and wonderful wines. We had the most amazing time in this beautiful place. Will we go again? Absolutely. Quarantine or no...

Claire Irvin, Dr Geoff and Rosemary Irvin's daughter, is Head of Travel at the Telegraph.

Sovereign (www.sovereign.com) offers a seven-night stay in Crete, staying at the five-star Blue Palace, on a half-board basis, from £1,265 per person. The offer includes return flights from London Luton and is based on a September 23 2020 departure.

Sovereign Luxury Travel and Citalia, both Travelopia brands, recently launched two new initiatives: Travel with Confidence and Book with Confidence. They are designed to give reassurance to consumers and include lower deposits and greater flexibility, including free cancellation up to 10 weeks before departure.