Moschino Brought The Big Hair Energy To MFW
We got a little taste of BHE (that's Big Hair Energy FYI) last season, with designers like Rodarte and Giorgio Armani shunning sleek dos for frizzy, full of volume styles. But the scenes backstage at this season’s AW19 shows were next. level.
Sticking to its signature OTT style was Moschino at Milan Fashion Week where the phrase 'bigger is better' was taken quite literally by hairstylist Jimmy Paul.
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With a collection inspired by 'The Price Is Right', Moschino was all about the retro gameshow girl - pastel blue eyeshadow and sky-scraping bouffant hair included.
And so AW19's obsession with totally extra Dolly Parton began.
At Erdem we saw a lady-like take on BHE, where hairstylist Anthony Turner created ‘a modern take on Tippie Hedren’ on the models, ‘a bit mad men but with a nod to the future’ (or – our favourite description of all of LFW – ‘alien grandma’). L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Full Volume Extra Mousse was used to create a sculptural, super elongated chignon at the crown. Neat, yes, but BHE nonetheless.
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Things were ramped up a notch at Vivienne Westwood’s politically charged show, where hair pro Gary Gill was inspired by the designer herself and her classic Westwood looks throughout the decades.
‘We’re going for full on, larger than life shapes and texture', the stylist explained, before revealing he used watered down L’Oréal Pli spray and handfuls of mousse in wet hair, which was then blasted at the roots with a Dyson Supersonic dryer.
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‘We want to see the rough texture, for it to look undone’. The result was wild, high-reaching styles - think Edward Scissorhands gets electrocuted – but with a natural edge.
But no one showed their BHE prowess quite like Sam McKnight for Ashish, whose couture-inspired, larger than life bouffants topped the sequin-clad models. ‘It’s a bit 60’s – think Veruschka or Jean Shrimpton - but a mad, alien hair version’ said McKnight, who used no less than three wigs per model, piled on top of each other.
‘More backcombing. More. More!’ was the direction given to his team of stylists, who used bottles upon bottles of his Cool Girl and Modern Hairspray products to keep the ceiling-scraping hair firmly in place.
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Dotted with hand-sequinned hair accessories and offset against Isamaya Ffrench’s glittery MAC make-up, the effect was unapologetic, disco fever. Or, as French perfectly put it: ‘Dolly Parton dragged through a hedge backwards’.
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