Halston's party wardrobe is just what we need for easing out of lockdown

Halston - ATSUSHI NISHIJIMA/NETFLIX
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As an appetizer to the main event, before embarking on the new sensational new Netflix series Halston, in which Ewan McGregor plays the legendary 70s New York designer who defined Studio 54 style, I’d recommend reading former American Vogue star Andre Leon Talley’s memories of the era in his autobiography, The Chiffon Trenches.

He recalls his friend Halston - one name, like Madonna or Cher - serving baked potatoes and cocaine on Tiffany silver dessert bowls. But for all the messy hedonism of his personal life, it’s impressive just how rigorously uniformed and sharply dressed the man himself was.

Halston - Netflix
Halston - Netflix

Which, as we ease slowly back into some semblance of normal life, is worth taking note of. ‘Style forecasters’ (I’ve worked in the fashion industry for 14 years and am still not quite sure what that means) point to a Roaring Twenties approach to goodtime dress-up once the pandemic is over, but it could be a while yet before we’re embracing the full bells and whistles of black tie and jazzy shoes. In the interim, Halston’s personal approach to men’s style is worth taking note of.

John Smedley
John Smedley

Richard merino wool polo neck, £180, John Smedley

The designer - whose name you might not be familiar with but who defined the fluid, dancefloor-ready aesthetic of the 1970s - created women’s clothing built for that purpose; flowing jumpsuits, cascading gowns designed for twirling and gleaming metallics. But his own personal style - as was the case with a lot of men in the 70s - was more minimalist yet entirely elevated. An outfit might have consisted of a neat black polo neck and sleek black jacket, but the knitwear was cashmere and the jacket structured to the nth degree.

That silhouette is the USP; we’ve spent over a year in sloppy, slouchy clothes, so tailoring with a bit of structure and oomph is a welcome departure. Take the shoulders for example - strong (the technical term is ‘roped’) and masculine, with a narrow waist designed to broaden the chest.

Saint Laurent 
Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent leather trench, £4,075, Farfetch

There was a clean minimalism to Halston’s approach to style that’s appealing, especially when so much of what’s on offer for men at the moment is busy white noise; he kept to a non-palette of blacks and creams, with occasional forays into grey if he was feeling adventurous. His ivory mac coat - depicted in the Netflix series - manages to combine looking masculine with looking expensive. There’s no schlepping on subways in such a pristine shade.

Tom Ford
Tom Ford

Renee sunglasses, £250, Tom Ford

That’s not to say he didn’t enjoy a touch of peacocking, flamboyance and dress-up; this is, after all, the man who would spin Liza Minnelli around the dancefloor at Studio 54. That’s evident in the heavy-duty leather coats (black; matte for everyday, patent for party time), gleaming hardware on a belt buckle and gargantuan shades indoors (helpful for the inevitable hangovers and a market later cornered by Tom Ford).

As we contemplate the last few days of outdoor socialising in the dank and drizzle, his knack for wearing a polo neck under a shirt is a handy layering device. Consider Halston’s wardrobe our gateway drug of choice.

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