Hidden gem: After years of working for others, chef opens his own Brunswick County restaurant

Brad Ball has spent a lot of time in kitchens. Even before he became a chef, his family had a pizza place in Greensboro. He worked in a few spots there and eventually met his wife, Sara, before moving on to cities like Cincinnati and Charleston.

When the couple moved to Southeastern North Carolina, Ball worked with James Doss at Wilmington's Rx Restaurant and Bar and Rhonda Uhlman, who now owns the StreatSide food stand in Southport. More recently, Ball has worked for local clubs and spent several years as the executive chef of the Bald Head Island Club.

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So, yes, he’s worked in a lot of kitchens. It's just that until now, they haven't been in his own restaurant.

“It’s been a dream of his, having his own place,” said Sara Ball.

The couple opened The Sea Biscuit Café in May at 3370 Stone Chimney Road in the Supply/Varnamtown/Holden Beach area of Brunswick County.

So far, there have been some ups and downs, Ball said. But he has a suitably eclectic menu offering breakfast and lunch in an unassuming former diner. Breakfast is now a place with a farm-to-table approach to the classics, with local eggs (from just up the street), Guilford County grits and hand-pattied sausage.

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At lunch, you can order chicken pot pie or a fried bologna sandwich, as well as watermelon sashimi or a black bean burger enhanced with nuts and kale, and served on a gluten free bun. Every morning, Ball goes to the docks in Varnamtown to get some fresh seafood for the shrimp and grits and the fish tacos, served Al Pastor style.

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"It started as an old-school diner, but has evolved into this," he said.

"People are already saying that it's kind of a hidden gem," Sara Ball said.

But, in a way, they could just now start to experiment with the possibilities and freedom of having their own place. For example, they started a ghost kitchen just a few weeks ago.

“I really like the idea of ghost kitchens,” Brad Ball said. "I like that it's a concept that lives only on Facebook. It's a way to explore a few different ideas."

When Sea Biscuit closes, locals can still order take-out and deliver from Pepe’s Pizza many nights of the week.

"It's hand-tossed, and a cross between New York and California style," he said.

The Meat Man and the Primo Supremo are favorites, but the Back Cheddar Burger pizza uses his house-made ground beef blend.

In addition to having more chef-y freedom, there are a few other reasons the Balls decided to open this business – to give locals more options and to have more time as a family.

They say they've spent many evenings driving around looking for a good place to eat, only to have to go all the way to Wilmington. As Brunswick's population booms, more people are looking for different options, they said.

“This area has a lot of room for growth,” Sara Ball said.  "So many restaurants have opened up in Oak Island and Southport, we thought this would be a good place for us."

Brad Ball said he also appreciates being able to spend more time with his two children.

"Before when I would leave for work, they'd be asleep and I'd get back and they'd be asleep," he said.

Now, even when they're working, the kids can spend more time at the restaurant, Sara Ball said.

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She’s worked as a school counselor and has also been a stay-at-home mom. Now, she’s managing the restaurant while her husband focuses on the back of the house. She's the one talking to customers and trying to learn just what it is they are hungry for.

"It's nice," Brad Ball said. "We don't have to have any corporate meetings."

"Well, we do have them," she said. "We just have them while we're sitting on the couch."

She said that her husband's skill, and the details he puts into his work, makes it special. It's the vinegar powder he adds to the fish-and-chips batter to give it that tangy bite and in the fresh fruit he uses for the daily cobbler. They are happy trying to offer something for everyone.

"We are locals," he said. "We want to be here for other locals. We want to be here for the ladies golfing group, and the VFW guys. We want to be here for the teenagers who don't want to put away their phones."

They hope to add evening hours this fall,  but don’t expect them to give up on the ghost kitchen concept. Pepe's Pizza has been popular, and Brad Ball is already also thinking about a concept serving international street food.

Allison Ballard is the food and dining reporter at the StarNews. You can reach her at aballard@gannett.com.

This article originally appeared on Wilmington StarNews: Chef opens The Sea Biscuit Café and restaurant in Brunswick County