Hip vegan diner, bar near Pikes Peak Highway entrance serves all-day breakfast | Dining review

Jun. 16—For doubters, Fern's Diner & Drinkery in Cascade proves plant-based food isn't just good for you, but is tasty, too.

However, this raises the question: Is it because the flavors are similar to the meat products being replaced, or due to some serious cooking happening here? Based on my recent meal, the answer is both.

Plus, the ambiance is too cool to miss. There's a hip diner vibe, with barstools at the counter and an open view of the kitchen where breakfast is always available.

Visible from our table was a large tray of golden biscuits just out of the oven. Thus, it was an easy call to place an order of two with gravy. Each is cut in half, so the thin, airy biscuits are almost obscured by the rich, peppery country gravy, complete with pieces of vegan sausage.

The short stack of pancakes ($7) with a side of plant-based bacon ($5) hit all the right taste buds. The three hotcakes, each with a dollop of (vegan) butter, are dusted with powdered sugar. They're fluffy with a hint of vanilla. Syrup is served on the side. The bacon was crispy and salty, just as it should be.

Stuffed French toast ($10) is filled with agave cream cheese, drizzled with blueberry compote and sprinkled with powdered sugar. It's beautifully plated but is even better than its looks. The compote, however, is very sweet, so I suggest getting it on the side. It makes the syrup superfluous. Still, this is an impressive rendition of a breakfast favorite.

The friendly staff is knowledgeable and helpful. As an egg-averse eater, I wasn't sure about the Moon egg, a mung bean-based product included in the Southwestern skillet ($16). It was suggested to have it on the side, so I could taste it. I'm glad I did, if only because I now have a greater appreciation for eggs that need to be cracked. The taste and texture were like cornmeal without any seasoning.

This was in sharp contrast to the skillet. Tater tots, beans, onion, green pepper and Soyrizo (a riff on chorizo) are topped with melted (vegan) provolone and a surprisingly piquant green chili. When eaten with the gluten-free tortilla served on the side, some of the heat is diminished.

This is a substantial amount of food; my only complaint was the spice level made it difficult to appreciate the individual components of the dish.

We were told biscuits, skillets and breakfast burritos are among the most popular items.

Then another server added the stuffed French toast, and even though we were talking about breakfast, she mentioned the Korean BBQ burger.

The menu includes several burger and sandwich options, soups, salads and locally sourced vegan and gluten-free baked goods.

The diner is named in memory of the owner's dog, a French bulldog rescue. Her photo prominently hangs in the bright yellow and blue interior. I usually don't make mention of restrooms, but at Fern's they're worth a visit, if only out of curiosity due to the imaginative decor.

Near the entrance to the Pikes Peak Highway, the setting is picturesque.

Fern's Diner & Drinkery

Vegan entrees.

Location: 4645 Fountain Ave., Cascade

Contact: 1-719-424-7667; fernsdiner.com

Prices: $3.50 to $21

Hours: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday-Wednesday; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Thursday and Friday; 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Outdoor dining.

Favorite dishes: Biscuits and gravy; pancakes

Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.