Do At-Home LED Face Masks Work?
Experts weigh in on the safety and efficacy of these glowing devices
By Perry Santanachote
At-home LED face masks look like they came straight out of a “Star Wars” movie, but these devices are less sci-fi and more straight-up science-based. They even have origins in real-life space travel.
LED, or light-emitting diode, therapy was developed by NASA scientists in the early 1990s, first for plant growth experiments in space and later to boost astronauts’ wound healing. The light’s wavelengths can go deep into body tissue, where collagen synthesis happens, to promote human tissue growth.
Back on Earth, that same technology has since been shown to relieve the pain and side effects associated with chemotherapy and radiation among cancer patients. It has also been harnessed for cosmetic purposes, including targeting sun damage, hyperpigmentation, scarring, wrinkles, acne, and rosacea at dermatology offices across the world.
But you no longer need to see a doctor for LED light therapy mask sessions; you can experience the skincare trend at home via Stormtrooper look-alike masks with skin-rejuvenating and acne-busting claims. These masks aren’t cheap, ranging anywhere from a couple hundred to a couple thousand dollars. (In-office treatments can cost $25 to $250 per session.) So it begs the question: Can these mass-market devices get you the same bang for the buck?
What Does Light Therapy Do to Your Skin?
That depends on the color of the light. There are two main colors used, says Janiene Luke, MD, an associate professor of dermatology at Loma Linda University. Blue light is typically used for acne because it targets the bacteria implicated in the pathogenesis of acne. Red light can improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation because its longer wavelength deeply penetrates the skin to boost collagen.
Other LED colors, including green and yellow, are marketed with at-home masks, but we haven’t been able to find clinical studies on these colors.
At-Home Masks vs. In-Office Treatments
“Cosmetic procedures such as these have been extensively studied and are highly effective in treating various skin conditions, including fine lines and wrinkles, when in the hands of a physician,” Luke says. “At-home masks are typically not as effective as in-office treatments because they are not as highly powered.” That’s because they need to be safe for home use.
“That being said, if someone wants to use an LED mask in addition to prescription topical medications, in between in-office procedures, or as an alternative if they have issues using standard therapy, this can be a good option if used as directed,” Luke says.
The American Academy of Dermatology says there is no way to know who will see results with at-home treatments for acne. If you want to try it, you may need to use an at-home device twice daily. Some devices need to be used for 30 to 60 minutes, twice a day, for four to five weeks.
Is LED Light Therapy Safe?
It’s critical to make sure the at-home mask has been cleared by the Food and Drug Administration before you purchase it. Luke says the FDA designation means that the mask is generally safe for most people. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and use them for it recommended time only. While LED light therapy is safe in the short term, there’s less research about its long-term safety.
However, there are two caveats regarding eye safety and darker skin tones.
Eye Safety
“LED masks tend to be safe since most of them have the eyes cut out so that the light is not directed into the eye, but they may not be risk-free,” says Robert Layman, OD, president of the American Optometric Association. Even though at-home masks have a lower intensity than those used in clinical environments, Layman says there could be some spillover light near the eye. Other factors that could contribute to potential eye problems include how long these masks are being worn, what intensity the LED light is, and whether the patient has their eyes open while wearing them.
“For any type of light therapy treatment, eye protection, such as blackout goggles, are a must,” Layman says. (Some masks come with the appropriate eyewear.)
Layman says that people with certain eye-related conditions, such as congenital retinal disorders, or people who take certain medications that make them more sensitive to light should be cautious when using these devices. “Prolonged exposure to blue or red light may result in blurry vision, eye pain, eye irritation, or changes in vision for some patients,” he says.
Darker Skin
“The use of LED masks in people of color has not been extensively studied,” Luke says. “What we do know is that people with darker skin types can be more susceptible to discoloration, and we are finding that this can often be triggered by visible light as well as UV light.”
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