Hot grill summer! Local snapper with mango slaw makes for fine fish tacos

Nicole Stover is no stranger to Lombardi’s Seafood in Winter Park. In fact, it’s precisely that business’s inventory of prime local catch that this recipe creator and developer most enjoys working with, and that’s right in the name you’ll find on her website and Instagram: BeachGirlGrills.com.

“The beach is absolutely my happy place. It renews my soul,” says this Orlando native. Among her Florida favorites: St. Augustine and Vilano. “I live for all the sunrises.”

Even so, she wasn’t expecting co-owner Denise Smith to lob a slab-like 10-pound snapper her way, but since each guest at a seafood fest, whether in your own backyard or the deck of your beachfront rental, will consume about a pound of fish, it gave her an excuse to invite more loved ones to share in the fun.

“Seafood is by far my favorite thing to grill because it doesn’t get showcased as often,” Stover explains. “It’s so much fun to show people how easy it is. And it’s perfect for weeknights because it cooks really quick.”

To illustrate, that whopper took about 40 minutes total, but smaller fish — the recipe below calls for 2- or 3-lb. swimmers — will cook through to tender with 6-10 minutes on each side.

Stover, who has not only created recipes for Lombardi’s, but other names you may have heard of, including Duke’s Mayonnaise, Lobster Anywhere and Southern Cast Iron, says that when it comes to choosing proteins for the grill, folks often shy away from fish because of fears of overcooking and sticking — but these concerns are easily overcome.

“Cleaning a fish can be intimidating, too,” she notes, “which is why a really good fish market can help. Once you choose the fish, generally you can just ask and they’ll clean it, gill it and gut it. It takes away all of the work.”

Prepping, she says, is simple.

“For this dish, all I did was cut slits in each side, then season it with oil and a mix of spices and stuff it with citrus and cilantro.

Citrus is a great trick to prevent sticking, too. But you’ll also want to make sure the grates are really clean and really hot.

‘It’s a feast!’ Preparing whole fish for a stunning summer dish

“For gas grills, you want to heat all your burners and get it to around 400 degrees. For charcoal, you’ll want it spread all over the bottom and it’s going to be completely ashed over…. It can be a little inexact, but I feel like the flavor is so much better.”

This fish was done over “good ol’ Kingsford charcoal,” she says. “With regard to overcooking, your No. 1 best friend is a good instant-read thermometer…. 140-145 degrees is perfect. The eyes will turn white and the flesh will easily flake.”

Still nervous about throwing this beautiful specimen on those searing-hot grates? You don’t have to. Much in the way a cedar plank prevents sticking and imparts autumnal flavors into grilled fish, citrus slices or even pineapple skins can impart summer flavors while protecting that precious catch. Simply sub in pineapple salsa for mango.

Stover loves the added freshness fruit imparts to fish that’s already as fresh as it comes. This snapper, for example, was caught in the Gulf waters off Steinhatchee. “There’s nothing like the texture of a fresh-caught fish. Plus, you know you’re supporting your community.”

Once prepped, lay yours on the grill whole — enjoy a glass of wine “Sauvignon Blanc or a nice, dry rose,” Stover suggests — and flip accordingly at the halfway point, leaving your grill open. Once done, the fish itself makes a beautiful centerpiece with all those taco accouterments.

“It’s mango season, and the salsa — crunchy, refreshing, sweet — goes really well with the snapper, which is a mild fish. Plus, you get that nice kick from the jalapenos and sour citrus from the lime.”

Avocados add creaminess, but if you insist on a sauce, Stover says you can blend them with cilantro, lime juice and a little sour cream for a crema that compliments nicely.

“If you can’t find snapper, this recipe will work with grouper or grilled shrimp, just about anything,” she notes. “And there’s nothing wrong with making filets, either, if you don’t want to use a whole fish. Technically, you could even do it with chicken.”

I don’t want to encourage chickening out, though, which in this case would be literal. Make the fish.

Want to reach out? Find me on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram. Email: amthompson@orlandosentinel.com. For more fun, join the Let’s Eat, Orlando Facebook group or follow @fun.things.orlando on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter.

Grilled Whole Snapper with Mango Slaw

Recipe courtesy of Nicole Stover, Beach Girl Grills (beachgirlgrills.com)

For the Snapper

Two whole 2-3-lb. snappers, gutted, scaled and gilled
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ancho chili powder
½ teaspoon Mexican oregano
½ teaspoon granulated garlic

½ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
¼ teaspoon cumin
Olive oil
2-3 lemons and limes, thinly sliced
1 bunch cilantro

For the Mango Slaw

16-ounce bag coleslaw mix
2 ripe mangoes, diced
4 scallions, chopped
½ cup cilantro, chopped
1 jalapeño, finely diced
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon honey
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Add coleslaw, mango, scallions, cilantro and jalapeño to a large bowl. In separate bowl, add lime juice, honey, olive oil and whisk to combine. Pour dressing over slaw. Season with salt and pepper. Mix to combine. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes.

2. Allow fish to come to room temperature for 30 minutes. Pat dry.

3. Add seasonings to a small bowl. Mix to combine.

4. Cut 3-4 slits in the sides of your fish, going through the skin and flesh and stopping at the bone.

5. Rub fish inside and out with olive oil. Generously sprinkle your seasoning mix all over the fish, making sure to get inside slits and cavity.

6. Place a few citrus slices into each slit. Add the remaining slices inside the fish (save a few for the grill if you like). Place bunch of cilantro into the cavity.

7. Prepare your grill for direct grilling. For charcoal cooking, spread charcoal into even layer across the bottom of the grill. For gas, heat your burners on medium high, or 400 degrees. Make sure your grates are clean. Oil them if desired.

8. Place fish on the hot grates. For a 2-3-lb. fish, allow to grill for 6-10 minutes on the first side. For anything larger, allow an additional 2-4 minutes per pound.

9. Using a fish spatula, carefully flip your fish. If the skin doesn’t easily release, give it an additional minute or two.

10. Once flipped, grill another 6-10 minutes. The skin will be crispy, the flesh will easily flake, the eyes will turn white. Internal temperature should be between 140-145 degrees.

11. Flake your fish. Serve with charred tortillas, mango slaw and your favorite toppings such as avocado, sliced jalapeños and lime wedges.